JonJon
Founding Member
ok...narrowed down the rpm drop problem
- Thread starter 00VERT GT
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yeah um that screw is nowhere to be found on my stock Tb. Anyways isn't the idle all controlled by the computer anyways or even my chip?
Thinking about buying a new MAF anyone know of any good sites that sell them for cheap?
Thinking about buying a new MAF anyone know of any good sites that sell them for cheap?
My guess would be the alternator or your MAF may not be functioning correctly. The reaon your RPMs drop when you turn your wheel and brake is because the pump is run off of the same belt your alternator is run off of, which is why you will see your lights dim, or in some of your cases, other more important things malfunction. I would get it checked before you jumped the gun and bought the MAF. It would suck if you bought it and that wasn't the problem, huge waste of money. Check out www.kmodifiedracing.com for the MAF sensors, they have some good prices. You probably have to email them at [email protected] because i dont think they are on the site yet. Anyway, GOOD LUCK WITH EVERYTHING!
YardSpecial
New Member
GTblack_00
New Member
I have to post here,
IMHO, ford has the drive idle speed adjusted too low, it is set to 560 while in drive from the factory. If they bumped it up to say another 20-25 r's and played with the dashpot decay settings (the settings that control how fast the r's drop and how it settles to idle), our cars wouldnt do this. It is basically a tuning problem from factory.
IMHO, ford has the drive idle speed adjusted too low, it is set to 560 while in drive from the factory. If they bumped it up to say another 20-25 r's and played with the dashpot decay settings (the settings that control how fast the r's drop and how it settles to idle), our cars wouldnt do this. It is basically a tuning problem from factory.
GTblack_00 said:
Thanks for the advice i think i'll try and get my voltage checked...assuming that would tell me if my alternator was bad?? And your explanation GTBlack is one of the best so far...i just wish Ford would own up to it or at least give us a fix. Going to try Autozone today see if they will check my Alternator.
djtech
Founding Member
You should check your key on, ignition off TPS voltage.
Carl & everyone you should not have to adjust your idle screw if your computer/tps/iac is working correctly. Going from memory I remember setting my TPS at .98x volts with key ON and motor not running. You should then able able to floor it (just open the butterfly valve) and see your TPS go up to 4.6V's.
If your values are off set the ignition off to .98X and disconnect the battery for 5 mins. Then start the car and let 'er run for a while. Then take her for a spin and see if it makes a diff!
Carl & everyone you should not have to adjust your idle screw if your computer/tps/iac is working correctly. Going from memory I remember setting my TPS at .98x volts with key ON and motor not running. You should then able able to floor it (just open the butterfly valve) and see your TPS go up to 4.6V's.
If your values are off set the ignition off to .98X and disconnect the battery for 5 mins. Then start the car and let 'er run for a while. Then take her for a spin and see if it makes a diff!
00VERT GT said:
ok checked alternator...it's fine. So I guess it isn't electrical. THAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAT's great. 
On another note it looks like more people are coming forward with same problem. Hopefully one of us finds a fix.
On another note it looks like more people are coming forward with same problem. Hopefully one of us finds a fix.
JonJon
Founding Member
we need a fix already 
My RPM dropping is worse now after 75mm tb... happens more often. I took out the 1/2" intake spacer I had also, made no difference (reset computer).
I've never stalled out, but dropping to 600 and rev'ing up to 1000 randomly is becoming obnoxious. It seems to be getting worse?
My RPM dropping is worse now after 75mm tb... happens more often. I took out the 1/2" intake spacer I had also, made no difference (reset computer).
I've never stalled out, but dropping to 600 and rev'ing up to 1000 randomly is becoming obnoxious. It seems to be getting worse?
YardSpecial
New Member
Will ask my Ford ASE Tech, maybe he knows somthing??
Mine is really low and I don't like it !
Problem raiseing the idle is the car will push the brakes even MORE !!
Stang as really low stall, so that probly why they idle so low??
My truck with same engine and trans does not do that.
Mine is really low and I don't like it !
Problem raiseing the idle is the car will push the brakes even MORE !!
Stang as really low stall, so that probly why they idle so low??
My truck with same engine and trans does not do that.
hognutz
New Member
I bought a new plenum tb combo off ebay. it came complete with new IAC. I swapped it on and had this same problem. swapped my old IAC on and the problem is gone.
Where did you buy the new IAC valve? I notice that the one that came on my plenum was not the exact same part that was on my car. I dont' know if it was aftermarket or different year.
Where did you buy the new IAC valve? I notice that the one that came on my plenum was not the exact same part that was on my car. I dont' know if it was aftermarket or different year.
Jesus
Banned
Not that this helps, but my 2003 5 speed has done this pretty much from day one. It has only completely stalled twice, and that was on the same day quite a while ago. RPMs usually drop to around 500-550 rpm upon breaking before coming back up to like 700 idle.
djtech
Founding Member
and it's so damn easy to check TPS voltage
00VERT GT said:ok checked alternator...it's fine. So I guess it isn't electrical. THAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAT's great.
On another note it looks like more people are coming forward with same problem. Hopefully one of us finds a fix.
forgot to add that sometimes when i hit second and the rpms start dropping i can floor it and the car won't move. It just sits there and coasts like im' not even on the throttle. I asked my mustang shop tech and he said it is a bad maf. Is that possible?? I didn't think the maf had anything to do with the throttle f'n up.
NaplesBill
New Member
- Aug 10, 2005
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Well, I have an '03 Explorer with the same motor as the 99-04 GT. I had a problem very much like everyone here is describing. It started a couple of days ago and just kept getting worse. Today I had to hold the gas and brake everytime I stopped to prevent the engine from stalling.
I decided to take a look at it tonight. I have an engine cover and when I removed it I kept hearing this sucking sound. It sounded like it was coming from the intake manifold. It turned out that the breather tube that connects from the passenger side valve cover to the intake plenum had a hole in it. I have no idea how the hole got there but I replace the elbow where the hole was and the problem is fixed.
It's the large breather tubing that elbows right at the intake plenum. There are two small cooling lines that connect at the same area on the plenum. It would stand to reason that a smaller whole or leak would cause less severe but similar symptoms.
I decided to take a look at it tonight. I have an engine cover and when I removed it I kept hearing this sucking sound. It sounded like it was coming from the intake manifold. It turned out that the breather tube that connects from the passenger side valve cover to the intake plenum had a hole in it. I have no idea how the hole got there but I replace the elbow where the hole was and the problem is fixed.
It's the large breather tubing that elbows right at the intake plenum. There are two small cooling lines that connect at the same area on the plenum. It would stand to reason that a smaller whole or leak would cause less severe but similar symptoms.
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