So I switched out my Isky cam for a TFS #1 cam. I use to pull 18lbs of vacuum, but now I pull about 10lbs.... I thought that lobe seperation determined the majority of vacuum and this cam is suppose to have good pull. I have drove it for a little while and it sucks, I have lost power and got beat by my brother's stock 5.0. Im assuming I have a leak somewhere but I don't hear anything. Timing is set at 12 and from what I can see everything is hooked up. Also, this thing is running rich, it smells like a bucket of gasoline is just sitting under my car and a midget with a fan is blowing it in my face. What do you guys think?
Vacuum problem with New Cam
- Thread starter crunchie12268
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Roland69
Sergeant Tangnet
the isky cam was a .480/.500 lift cam with 210/218 duration, I thought that a cam with more duration would be better for power and I could take advantage of the ported heads. Why would you go back to the isky?
I had the computer unplugged the whole time and figured that was good enough for reseting... but I will try it again.
I had the computer unplugged the whole time and figured that was good enough for reseting... but I will try it again.
I am having a similar problem with my TFS Stage 2 cam. If you want it to run right you will need to have your computer tuned for the cam, becuase its not used to seeing that little vaccum, which is most likely why its running rich. It thinks your in the throttle(aka w/ little vaccum), and dumps alot of fuel. I would suggest installing a vaccum canister to hold the little vaccum that you do have, and get it tuned. After that, it should rip... also check for vaccum leaks...
I thought people run around with the TFS 1 and have little driveability issues.
The rockers are something that could be the problem, because I did them and I am not all that good. It is hard to adjust those damn things with the hydraulic lifter wanting to bleed out oil when you adjust them... then it changes and you don't know what it will do after they pump up. I waited until the intake was about to close and did the exhuast and when the exhaust was about to open and did the intake. I then torqued down until I felt the bolt start to resist. But if they were too tight wouldn't I be hanging a valve open and I would notice it? Because it idles great, and has a quite valvetrain.
The rockers are something that could be the problem, because I did them and I am not all that good. It is hard to adjust those damn things with the hydraulic lifter wanting to bleed out oil when you adjust them... then it changes and you don't know what it will do after they pump up. I waited until the intake was about to close and did the exhuast and when the exhaust was about to open and did the intake. I then torqued down until I felt the bolt start to resist. But if they were too tight wouldn't I be hanging a valve open and I would notice it? Because it idles great, and has a quite valvetrain.
MustangGT92
New Member
have you tried ajusting your throttle??? i had a similar problem....i thought maybe i had my o2 sensors go out after i changed everything....but i had to ajust my thottle to right around 1000 rpm and now my car tries to brekk loose when i shift into second without getting on it hard.....
MustangGT92
New Member
sorry i forgot about the rr's...when you ajust the rocker arms...did you try turning the crank and tighten down everytime you turn the crank???...thats what my chilton manual said to do....
If you adjust the throttle screw with the IAC valve still plugged in, that may cause some issues.
If you unplug the IAC before you adjust the throttle screw then the computer knows that you are changing the base idle.
This is similar to pulling the plug on the dist to adjust base timing.
When you plug the IAC back in the idle should barely change if it changes at all.
I would definately adjust your idle and reset your tps.
It won't help much with the power problem though.
I would guess the rest of your problems are due to a vac leak, possibly valve adjustment.
Try spraying some starting fluid around the intake and all the vac lines.
If the starting fluid gets into the intake through a vac leak you will hear the idle speed increase, as the highly combustible starting fluid will cause the motor to rev.
My thoughts,
jason
If you unplug the IAC before you adjust the throttle screw then the computer knows that you are changing the base idle.
This is similar to pulling the plug on the dist to adjust base timing.
When you plug the IAC back in the idle should barely change if it changes at all.
I would definately adjust your idle and reset your tps.
It won't help much with the power problem though.
I would guess the rest of your problems are due to a vac leak, possibly valve adjustment.
Try spraying some starting fluid around the intake and all the vac lines.
If the starting fluid gets into the intake through a vac leak you will hear the idle speed increase, as the highly combustible starting fluid will cause the motor to rev.
My thoughts,
jason
yeah I know to pull the IAC before adjusting the screw because the IAC can only increase throttle from the base setting. Also, I am pretty sure that the cam was at its lowest possible point.
I just replaced the intake gaskets because I was getting a heavy sucking through the oil filler and the gaskets fixed it. The problem I am having now was also a problem before the lower gaskets.
Nobody has had a vacuum problem with the TFS 1's profile have they? And if I had adjusted the valves wrong it would bottom out, clatter, backfire or run like ****. It runs and drives, but when I get off the gas I have to hit the throttle and keep the rpms up for a little while before she wants to idle. I will spray some carb cleaner tonight, but any help would be great.
I just replaced the intake gaskets because I was getting a heavy sucking through the oil filler and the gaskets fixed it. The problem I am having now was also a problem before the lower gaskets.
Nobody has had a vacuum problem with the TFS 1's profile have they? And if I had adjusted the valves wrong it would bottom out, clatter, backfire or run like ****. It runs and drives, but when I get off the gas I have to hit the throttle and keep the rpms up for a little while before she wants to idle. I will spray some carb cleaner tonight, but any help would be great.
Check the vacuum line for the EGR. It needs to go to the solenoid on passenger side behind the strut. If you run it with manifold vacuum you will get full EGR flow at idle and a massive vacuum leak. I know because it happened to me. I was getting 8lbs of vacuum but after finding my routing was wrong and fixing it I now get 15!!!
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