Cracked Alum. oil pan - ideas???

So found out where the oil leak was coming from but the oilpan is not available at the wreckers around here (Ont. Canada).

Has anyone ever repaired one?? What did you use, TIG welding or some mysterious wonder goo in a tube?

If you're interested the crack is at the rear passenger side and runs thru the groove that goes under the rear main (i.e. in the sump). Now I know why it leaks more if I park facing uphill.

Thanks

Tom

EDIT --- OOPS forgot it's a 91 2.3L
 
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Yup that's what I thought you guys would say. My machinist buddy had his TIG weld guy look at it and he said that it'd probably warp. So I told him to open up the crack ( a little) with a dumore and I'd JB weld it. The worst thing that'll happen is that it'll leak some and it was already doing that :D .

Thanks for the feedback

Tom
 
Ok Guys, JB Weld didn't work. I think it's because the crack goes thru the 'U' part of the oil pan that is supposed to press the gasket against the rear main bearing cap and with a crack there it can't press hard enough. (The JB Weld just cracked, too much force)

So I need a little help.

Is the oilpan for the 89-93 Ranger/BroncoII the same as on the Mustang?

My Ford parts guy says they have 2 different part nos. Mustang is F3ZZ6675A and Ranger is F37E6675A7A (according to the guy on Ebay). The oil pan gaskets are the same (according to FelPro), so I know it'll bolt up but will the pan clear the rack, etc. in the car?

Thanks,

Tom
 
OK JB weld no good because the crack goes thru the 'U' part of the pan and the gasket won't seal (insufficient pressure)

Is the Ranger pan the same as the Mustang pan?? My Ford partsguy says 2 different nos. (Mustang F3ZZ6675A) and eBay guy says Ranger is F37E6675A7A.

Thanks,

Tom

OOPS I guess the first post did go thru ;-)
 
I once sourced a 80's pan onto a 93. If I remember right there were no changes except for the pan gasket which had to be for the older pan. I do know there were no leaks. This might be easier to find in the local yards. Just make sure it uses the one piece seal (85 up I think). Can anyone second this, it was almost ten years ago. The pan came from a T-coupe.
 
RustBucket said:
It won't crack. I run just the opposite. Aluminum oil pan with a bellhousing for a steel pan motor. No big deal really.

Cool. So if i ever convert my '90 to a stick, i can get any bellhousing.

Im pretty sure forn made the change to the alum. pan that bolted to the belhousing for NVH reasons. Would there be any signifigant reduction if i changed to this set up?