Roush 95 s351 eratic idle and shutting off

HERS351

New Member
Jul 10, 2005
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Central Florida
hey guys i need help i bought my wife a 95 s351 na but it runs like crap she refuses to drive it cause it is not fun.it is all stock with 18,000 miles it is beautiful but it will not idle right it surges up and down alot or almost stops when you pull up to a light or it just shuts off all together.i thought i saw someone talking about the same problem and someone suggested some electronic gizzmo to fake out the computer i was wondering if anybody has any success with it. i know it is a common problem in these models with the pro m so i am sure some one has found a cure for this. please help wife right now wont drive it only washes it and puts int back in the garage but she really does want to drive it. thank you in advance!!!
LANCE
 
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Assuming all is well...

HERS351 said:
hey guys i need help i bought my wife a 95 s351 na but it runs like crap she refuses to drive it cause it is not fun.it is all stock with 18,000 miles it is beautiful but it will not idle right it surges up and down alot or almost stops when you pull up to a light or it just shuts off all together.i thought i saw someone talking about the same problem and someone suggested some electronic gizzmo to fake out the computer i was wondering if anybody has any success with it. i know it is a common problem in these models with the pro m so i am sure some one has found a cure for this. please help wife right now wont drive it only washes it and puts int back in the garage but she really does want to drive it. thank you in advance!!!
LANCE

Assuming that all the factors in the response above are working correctly, yhen I would invest in an "air adjuster", made by Interactive Systems. 770-720-1259. It works like a charm. Took the surge in our 95 from annoying to virtually non existent. Good luck.

Dan
 
I have a '95 R-code S351 that had the same problem and it too made the car annoying to drive. Start with the basics and go from there before you start replacing/adding components. First, you want to understand the reason that the idle hunts. The reason for that is usually because the exhaust readings (O2 sensors) does not correspond with the air inlet readings of the mass air sensor and the exhaust readings will either be too rich or too lean. The engine's computer will "hunt" up and down it's idle setting parameters to try and match the mass air flow sensor's air intake readings to the O2 sensor exhaust readings, hence the "hunting" idle. Unmetered air (vacuum leaks) and/or incorrect mass air flow sensor signals are common problems. The "air adjuster" mentioned by Footnfan will tweak the mass air flow sensor's signal and can compensate for an incorrectly functioning or calibrated mass air sensor. However, if your mass air flow sensor is functioning properly, then it won't help you.
First, check for vacuum leaks. Any vacuum leak downstream of the mass air flow sensor will create a hunting idle. I've been able to correct numerous hunting idles by finding cracked rubber hoses and torn intake boots.
Second, try removing and carefully cleaning the mass air sensor's sensor element. Dirt build-up on the sensor element will create incorrect sensor readings. This is especially true if you have an oiled filter element (such as a K&N filter). Sometimes the oil used on the filter will contaminate the mass air flow sensor element (especially a filter that has had too much oil applied to it) and create false readings.
On my particular S351 I found a cracked vacuum hose and a broken PCV valve. I also replaced the idle air control (IAC) solenoid with one for a 351 Lightning pick-up. I also installed the Air Adjuster because the mass air flow sensor had been replaced with a 90mm Pro-M and I thought that maybe the sensor may not have been calibrated properly. After the above changes and performing the usual TPS sensor adjustment and computer memory clearing, my car idles and drives much better now and the "fun factor" has been restored. Anyway, hope this helps somewhat.
 
thanks for the replies. has anybody ever had a chip burned to solve these problems? i spoke to a mustang shop by me and the owner said he recomends puting it on a dyno and to burn a chip. i am not sure if that will fix my problem or would just be a waist of money/
thank you for the help
 
HERS351 said:
thanks for the replies. has anybody ever had a chip burned to solve these problems? i spoke to a mustang shop by me and the owner said he recomends puting it on a dyno and to burn a chip. i am not sure if that will fix my problem or would just be a waist of money/
thank you for the help


I was one weekend from doing the same thing, but the air adjuster solved it. Even with a chip, your mass air system will have a hard time coping with running smoothly at idle and wider open. Others will have a ore learned description, but I am convinced that a chip MAY not be in your best interest.

My mechanic drives a mongo 03 Cobra. He had burned several chips for mass air blown cars. Post installation of the air adjuster, he no longer advises you burn a chip for idle roughness....yes for other symptoms, bit not for this issue...assuming the rest of the intake system and other systems are in good working order.

Dan
 
thanks for the info.yesterday i took the whole air inlet system apart and cleaned the throttle body ,iac valve and cleaned the pro-m unit and replaced the throttle plate gasket which was missing a piece about 1/2 inch long.took it for a test drive it seemed fine when i first started it but once it warmed up it went bad? it seemed to run fine when i first started it but got worse as i drove it. but when i got home shut it off and tried to restart it it would start and shut right off? so i quit for the night. went out today all i did was wiggle the wire on the temp sensor and disconect the battery ground cable and left it off for about an hour and cleaned the terminal and cable not that it looked like it needed it but decided what the hell.then i started it up and went for a ride it ran great no back firring on deacceleration and no idle problems sat dead at 850 with no moving it was great.went home and let wife drive it to prove it was better ran great for her to. so i will see if the problem comes back but for now i will just have her drive it more and see what happens.
not sure what fixed it cleaning the battery wiggling the temp sensor wire or disconnecting the battery for a while after all the other work i did but i am not going to look a gift horse in the mouth.
to everyone who left suggestions thank you but please keep them comming i am not positive this problem is gone for good!!yet
 
If it ran good after you disconnected the battery, that's probably because the ECU was heavily compensating for the problems the car had/has and it needed to be "re-learned" after the changes you made. Hopefully, whatever you did cleared the problem. Keep us posted.
 
If you are on the stock tune a dynotuner that has eec4 experience can tune that outa there. Most of the time it is not mechanical. Like I said, most.
Very typical with the 94-95's. My 95 S351 idled like a Lexus after my first dyno tune. The only part of the tune on the 94-95's that is almost impossible to completely get rid of is the light throttle stumble.
 
thank you for the info. do they have to burn a chip or can it be tuned with out one? also i spoke wth a guy from superchips they are 2 minutes from my house they say they have a adapter that goes between the ecu and the harness that alows the ecu to be tuned anyone have any experiance with this piece? i just do not want to buy stuff that i do not really need to only remove them and resell them for next to nothing on EBAY and then have the buyer not receive it and give them there money back! also wife wants to leave this one alone and as original as possible. other than said idle problem shes beautiful. also for other s351 owners do you have any paint overspray in the fuel door area? i have two 95 s351s and both have it. i assume it is from saleen blending the paint with the ground effects. just currious?
thank you again
LANCE
 
Lance,

Have them burn a chip. It's that simple. Steve at Powertrain Dynamics in Huntington BEach CA is a SCT tuner. DId my cars. May be able to mail you a chip. It will not hurt the value of the car at all.

No overspray in that area. Saleen does not spray parts when they are on the car unless something happened before it left the factory.
 
also for other s351 owners do you have any paint overspray in the fuel door area? i have two 95 s351s and both have it. i assume it is from saleen blending the paint with the ground effects. just currious?
thank you again
LANCE[/QUOTE]


If your car was equipped with 10in rear wheels they could have cracked the paint on the rear fender lips when rolling them (and had to respray the quarter panels). I have seen this on a few cars.