Alignment problems

leve

New Member
Jun 25, 2006
4
0
0
I have a 1966 coupe that I put new complete uppers, lowers, outer tie rod ends, 1" lowering coils, etc. now my local shop says he cannot get it to stay in alignment. He says it toes out like 3/4" each time he lowers the weight back onto it. any ideas?:bang:
 
  • Sponsors (?)


well

do you have granada brakes? ifso thats the problem, spindles are different enough to not let you align it. i had this same problem. or the springs are too short,(had that problem too). or he has no idea of what he is doing. also make sure your centerlink is centered. lazy guys will just tell you they cant do it so they dont really have to work hard.
and make sure you have the right tie rods some were short inner long outter, and others vice versa(long inner short outter for different years and models, some stores will sell you what they think is a match when its not so confirm that too.
 
No granada Brakes... stock drums. Would it make any difference if the car is up or down when he does toe? I read something about making a difference with the weight of the car on it. Is there any truth to this?:bang: Ed
P.S. Any advise will help.
 
Make sure that he's using turn plates on the front end that slide/rotate on ball bearings to eliminate all of the tire scrub. It's absolutely amazing how much bumpsteer these cars have. If you don't bounce the front end and let it settle you'll adjust yourself in circles.
 
These cars have sunch a huge amount of bumpsteer that you really need to make sure that he has eliminated all tire scrub from the front end to let it settle to ride height. The best way is to use turn-plates in the front end.

A quick tape measure front floor to fender arch can be a nice reality check to make sure he's at the same height every time.
 
I stopped down there today and they still have no clue... The mech straightened the passenger wheel when it wad up in the air, and the driver side was visibly toed in. when he sat the weight of the car back down it straightened out. any ideas?:shrug: :bang:
 
These guys are right. Ever see a hard-launching early Mustang at the track? I swear it looks like they have three inches of toe in with the wheels up! The car should be aligned on the ground (or rack) and ideally should have the driver's weight in the car, although I've never had a shop do that for a street car, that's how race cars are set up. Adjusting anything with the wheels off the ground is both a watse of time and a sure-fire sign the mechanic is clueless.
 
Problem solved

I took the mustang to a 75 year old mechanic and he had it solved in one day. He tightened everything down, and did not use the strut arms as adjusters. 67 has adjustment not 66. Works great now. Thanks for the advise.:SNSign: :nice: