Good recommendations for suspension rebuild?

[tamadrummer88]

Well, Im now making my shopping list for my mustang. I just ordered a few interior parts today, and theres more on the way.

Anyway, Ive decided for now to keep the suspension stock, and just rebuild it, with performance in mind. I have been looking at some front suspension rebuild kits, cause I broke the damn ball joint on one of the lower control arms ( I though I wasnt gonna use it any more because I had the idea of coil-overs, but as you can see, that never happened ) so, I just want to keep it stock, and put all new control arms and bushings. Anybody can reccommend what i can use on the front for performance and good ride. Also, for now, im jsut keeping the 4 wheel drum brakes. its manual right now, but im gonna make it power, so its less scary. Anyone know of a good booster thats a good size to where a Hydraulic clutch master cylinder can fit beside it? Im gonna do a hydraulic clutch conversion too, so thats on my parts list. Any good reccommendations for shocks? thanks for your help guys!


John

 

[Mach1steve]

I wouldn't spend any money makin it handle better in the corners until you get rid of those **** Drum brakes, those things are scary man.
Look at a kit from MP Brakes
www.mpbrakes.com
As far as suspension goes, I would use rubber bushings, not the Poly urethane/graphite stuff out there, to keep the ride less teeth chipping, and upgrade the front sway bar size to 1 1/8". Make sure you do this mod in conjunction with a 1 piece export brace or it won't notice the difference much.
The handling difference can be dramatic.
It will corner flatter, with less body roll on turn in.
Mach1steve

 

[tamadrummer88]

Well, I dont wanna waste my money on disc brakes because Im gonna do a MII front end, and those already come with disc brakes. So why spend money on disc brakes now when im gonna get them later? anyway, any thoughts on what I should get? i think If I dont drive in the rain the brakes wont be so bad. Basically my main focus right now is to get the car looking good and running. Take care of all the rust (mostly around the drip rails and the front wiindshield) paint it, rust proof the metal, paint, get the interior squared away, all that stuff. Long process, but it will be worth it in the end.


John

 

[tamadrummer88]

anyone?


John

 

[Jester67]

How much of the front suspension are you looking to replace at this time. The price added up in a hurry so if you have plans to go MII in the near future you might want to save up, do it once, and get what you want. I for one do not like front drums and I would think power front drums would be worse. As a final .02 cents, I do not like the MII setup it loads the car in a way it was not designed for and weld failures have been an issue in the past on several conversions so if you go this rough my advice to brace the crap out of it and hope for the best. I on the other hand went with Global West and do not regret it in the lease.

 

[bad68coupe]

How much of the front suspension are you looking to replace at this time. The price added up in a hurry so if you have plans to go MII in the near future you might want to save up, do it once, and get what you want. I for one do not like front drums and I would think power front drums would be worse. As a final .02 cents, I do not like the MII setup it loads the car in a way it was not designed for and weld failures have been an issue in the past on several conversions so if you go this rough my advice to brace the crap out of it and hope for the best. I on the other hand went with Global West and do not regret it in the lease.

I agree with everything you said. and as for my two cents, i would do some 620 springs in the front, upgrade the sway bar, shocks depend on what kind of driving you will be doing, and if you want a respectable life out of your suspension, i would use the polyurethane bushings, though if you choose not to make sure to use a synthetic grease, as far as control arms and things of that nature, if there is nothing wrong with them, just blast them and powdercoat or paint them. The stock equipment is fine just fine tune it with swaybar bushings shocks and springs and you are good to go.

 

[tamadrummer88]

How much of the front suspension are you looking to replace at this time. The price added up in a hurry so if you have plans to go MII in the near future you might want to save up, do it once, and get what you want. I for one do not like front drums and I would think power front drums would be worse. As a final .02 cents, I do not like the MII setup it loads the car in a way it was not designed for and weld failures have been an issue in the past on several conversions so if you go this rough my advice to brace the crap out of it and hope for the best. I on the other hand went with Global West and do not regret it in the lease.

For now, I have thought of this route:

Rebuilt power drum brakes
new UCA's
new LCA's
new stock springs
roller spring perches
KYB shocks
new polyurethane (or rubber?) bushings all around
TCP outer section subframe connectors
stock style export brace and monte carlo bar

am i on the right track?

John

 

[Mach1steve]

Sounds like a sound plan, but I would do the brakes at the same time, or do them 1st !
they may save ur life !

 

[bad68coupe]

Sounds like a sound plan, but I would do the brakes at the same time, or do them 1st !
they may save ur life !

Nothing is more true. The first time i drove my 68 it had all manual drums and i had to load it up on a trailer, let me just say that it was d**n near impossible. if it it was that troublesome, it is defenitely a hazard on the road. 4 wheel discs are a great thing, two wheel discs are a must.

 

[Jester67]

Sounds like a sound plan, but I would do the brakes at the same time, or do them 1st !
they may save ur life !

Or more importantly mine

 

[Jester67]

For now, I have thought of this route:

Rebuilt power drum brakes
new UCA's = $60each
new LCA's =$49 each
new stock springs =$50
roller spring perches = $175 or $60 if you do it yourself
KYB shocks = $100
new polyurethane (or rubber?) bushings all around = $125
TCP outer section subframe connectors will need these either way
stock style export brace and monte carlo bar will need these either way


John

All prices are estimates YYMV
So we are talking about $668 for some thing you plan to replace in a couple of years. And we still have not gotten to the brakes. Just something to think about.

 

[bad68coupe]

I wouldn't spend any money makin it handle better in the corners until you get rid of those **** Drum brakes, those things are scary man.
Look at a kit from MP Brakes
www.mpbrakes.com
As far as suspension goes, I would use rubber bushings, not the Poly urethane/graphite stuff out there, to keep the ride less teeth chipping, and upgrade the front sway bar size to 1 1/8". Make sure you do this mod in conjunction with a 1 piece export brace or it won't notice the difference much.
The handling difference can be dramatic.
It will corner flatter, with less body roll on turn in.
Mach1steve

The 1 1/8" sway bar is a fine idea, but if you slap on just a large front sway bar your understeer goes crazy. now no doubt it will help your body roll, but for overall handeling you will also need to install a rear sway bar. lets say that your car is going to way 2800 lbs. and you install a 1 1/8" sway bar you will need to install a 15/16" rear sway bar. and again, if there is nothing wrong with your old control arms reuse them, original parts are cool

 

[tamadrummer88]

I see. Well, looks like ill be looking around for what ill be buying.

John

 

[BIG-MAC]

IMHO the only reason to run a MII suspension is if the shock towers have to go to fit a large engine like the late model modulars. At least from a ultimate handling standpoint chaning to a MII design is the wrong thing to do. Ya know J Bittles (the JBA guy) 68 TA car pulls over 1 g with a stock based suspension. It just seems like a ton of work and expense for what in return? Some also question the logic of converting the rear leafs to a coil-over design...this is necessary if you want to run some large rubber becase the leafs springs would have to go.

 

[tamadrummer88]

IMHO the only reason to run a MII suspension is if the shock towers have to go to fit a large engine like the late model modulars. At least from a ultimate handling standpoint chaning to a MII design is the wrong thing to do. Ya know J Bittles (the JBA guy) 68 TA car pulls over 1 g with a stock based suspension. It just seems like a ton of work and expense for what in return? Some also question the logic of converting the rear leafs to a coil-over design...this is necessary if you want to run some large rubber becase the leafs springs would have to go.

If I was to go with a High-dollar front suspension in the future, what would you reccommend? I already have a late model cobra IRS planned in the future?


John

 

[SuperSnake428]

Why not look at TCP's offerings? TCP front Coil overs and TCP Subframe connectors? I put the TCP subframe connectors in my car when I replaced the floorpan and I can assure you that the flex in the body will be entirely gone. That is one stury "unibody" car now!

 

[tamadrummer88]

Why not look at TCP's offerings? TCP front Coil overs and TCP Subframe connectors? I put the TCP subframe connectors in my car when I replaced the floorpan and I can assure you that the flex in the body will be entirely gone. That is one stury "unibody" car now!

The only reason that I want to go with a MII suspension is because you get disc brakes, Rack and Pinion steering, and coil overs in one package. I know that there is a lot of people that has negative opinions on the MII suspension. i mean, if you have a competent welder, the welds should not break. Im also gonna use subframe connectors, the full TCP treatment with the outside sections and the bolt in center. Still, I dont see the problem with the MII suspension. The way how I look at it: If Reenmachine uses it on his cars and projects, then it has to be that good. But still, im open to suggestions. The MII is gonna be hard to change my mind about. but, I have to be wise with spending my money on parts. Gotta save up for college!

John

 

[tamadrummer88]

I found a set of bilsteins from Mustang Depot. Are those shocks good for my car, or should i just stick with KYB's?

John

 

[Jester67]

The real issue with the MII is that it loads the suspension in ways it was NEVER designed for. The load on a stock suspension is distributed to the control arms and the shock tower spreading the force out to a greater suferace area and triangulating it at the same time. The MII loads the frame rails only. If you look at Reens, build there is a lot of additional structural support that has been added to offset this.