TCP power R&P now only 2500
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96 DOHC Cobra said:
There are several available racks that rear steer (Taurus for example), so I doubt the trouble of front steer is worth it. It would require redoing half the suspension (sway bars, strut rods) and different oil pans... and probably more. Rear steer works fine, and I think the only advantage of front steer is that it generates understeer in some conditions.
Route666
Active Member
Is there seriously a difference between front and rear steering arms on the spindles/knuckles? How?
RGS0907
New Member
the turning circle is also larger witht he tcp power rack. it's only bad if you park in really tight spots all the time, and yes people, i live in san diego, its crowded!. i can do a 3 point turn just like any other car.
i just don't believe there is enough room under there to put a rack gear shaft that can swing the distance needed to grt the origional circle, i haven't seen 1 yet.
i just don't believe there is enough room under there to put a rack gear shaft that can swing the distance needed to grt the origional circle, i haven't seen 1 yet.
65up2d8
Member
streetgrande69 said:
I'm ignorant regarding the turning radius issue with rack and pinion setups. Is this true of new cars with rack and pinion or is there some engineering issue regarding the installation of a rack and pinion in an early Mustang that causes this problem? How much of an increased turning radius are we talking about here?
Håkan
Founding Member
streetgrande69 said:
There is room enough, neither of the r&p installs I have done have had any problems with an increased turning radius.
a standard parralellogram type suspension is always going to have a better turning radius because of increased ackerman than a rack and pinion system. you can decrease it some with the pro-motorsport bumpsteer kit since the tie rod is moved closer to the centerline of the spindle but how much exactly i'm not sure. bot sure if it will cause tire/rim clearance issues or not but shouldn't be any more than what the pro-motorsports kit has with the standard system
The decreased radius is what, less than 5%? That will not be evident in anything other than parking lots and U-turns. Having driven an F150 for almost 20 years, you sorta learn to plan ahead in the parking lots anyhow 
If you move to a front-steer rack you will get the additional benefit of a rear-sump pan, better under high acceleration than a front-sump unless you already have an improved pan. But I'm not convinced that getting the rack out of the way of the headers will help since your steering linkage (input) will have to be plumbed though there now. FWIW my TCP rack had no clearance issues with long tube headers in my 67 with 351W. See a couple of pics here: http://www.edbert.net/randp.htm
If you move to a front-steer rack you will get the additional benefit of a rear-sump pan, better under high acceleration than a front-sump unless you already have an improved pan. But I'm not convinced that getting the rack out of the way of the headers will help since your steering linkage (input) will have to be plumbed though there now. FWIW my TCP rack had no clearance issues with long tube headers in my 67 with 351W. See a couple of pics here: http://www.edbert.net/randp.htm
There are two problems with that logic
I have the Randall's Rack in my '66. It works very well sans the turning radius (43', same as a club cab ranger).
First issue with using the Pro-M kit is that you are making a very quick steering car even quicker. The Randall's rack has a lock to lock of 40 degrees less than 3 turns. That is fast even with the deminished turning radius (2.2" rack movement per turn). Move the steer points in and you quicken the steering, especially just off center. After 1,500 miles driving with this rack, on everything from fast twisties to open highway, I would suggest not using anything that shortens the throw, and to stay away from any steering wheels less than 15" in diameter.
Second issue with the Pro-M kit is that you lower the mount point by 1". Randalls Rack is all ready set up for a car that has a 1" Shelby drop and 1" cut springs. Unless you plan to radically lower your car you will induce bump steer. I did the 1" Shelby drop, and have the car lowered a total of 1.5" from stock. The bump steer is negligable, until you get the front end lifted about 3" from ride height.
So I would accept the rack for what it is. If you radically lower the car, then I would suggest using an adjustable bump steer kit like a Baer Tracker.
I'm very happy with the rack. It performs great. I would like to see the lock to lock slightly higher than 3 turns, and a 7" rack throw instead of the 6 3/8". But that would take a custom R&P.
bnickel said:
I have the Randall's Rack in my '66. It works very well sans the turning radius (43', same as a club cab ranger).
First issue with using the Pro-M kit is that you are making a very quick steering car even quicker. The Randall's rack has a lock to lock of 40 degrees less than 3 turns. That is fast even with the deminished turning radius (2.2" rack movement per turn). Move the steer points in and you quicken the steering, especially just off center. After 1,500 miles driving with this rack, on everything from fast twisties to open highway, I would suggest not using anything that shortens the throw, and to stay away from any steering wheels less than 15" in diameter.
Second issue with the Pro-M kit is that you lower the mount point by 1". Randalls Rack is all ready set up for a car that has a 1" Shelby drop and 1" cut springs. Unless you plan to radically lower your car you will induce bump steer. I did the 1" Shelby drop, and have the car lowered a total of 1.5" from stock. The bump steer is negligable, until you get the front end lifted about 3" from ride height.
So I would accept the rack for what it is. If you radically lower the car, then I would suggest using an adjustable bump steer kit like a Baer Tracker.
I'm very happy with the rack. It performs great. I would like to see the lock to lock slightly higher than 3 turns, and a 7" rack throw instead of the 6 3/8". But that would take a custom R&P.
DarkBuddha
Founding Member
Uh... I'm not sure what you're talking about exactly, but if it's about the price of the TCP rack being $2500, you're way way way late... check the age of the first post of this thread... from March 2002...TOM B said:
Rusty67
Dirt-Old 20+Year Member
It is too late. TCP doesn't even really exist anymore. Aliston's Chasis Works or what ever the name is bought TCP out a while ago and no longer has any affiliation with the original owners.
mdjay
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