its goin to be a daily driver. its auto. but i doubt ill bring it to the track, seeing as ive never been to one anyways. i mean maybe i want to go a couple times in my lifetime but its just a daily so i figured 3.73 but ive also heard that autos are better with 4.10s and 5speeds more go with 3.73s. so im still trying to decide.....if anyone can IM me on AIM and talk more with me that would be cool. Blue96gtstang. later and thanks so far. throw in more info if yall can.
Rear end gears
- Thread starter my95gtstang
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MY Cobra
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Dont compair apples to oranges. I am saying that the same car with the two diffrent gears will run faster with a 3.73 than a 4.10 in the 1/4 due to the fact that you have to shift in to 4th before you cross the line and you drop out of your power band. I have 4.10s in my Cobra and 3.55's in my twin turbo GT. So i am not picking sides due to what i have.
How can you say that having an extra shift is not a factor in racing? So you are saying there is a 100% chance you will not miss 4th gear? You are saying that your car makes the same power at 2k rpms in 4th gear as it does at 6,500 rpms in 3rd gear? You are saying that the time between shifts that your car is in nutral (Given you do not power shift) is not time lost in the power band?
How can you say that having an extra shift is not a factor in racing? So you are saying there is a 100% chance you will not miss 4th gear? You are saying that your car makes the same power at 2k rpms in 4th gear as it does at 6,500 rpms in 3rd gear? You are saying that the time between shifts that your car is in nutral (Given you do not power shift) is not time lost in the power band?
SteedaGTJ22 said:
I shift into 4th.... It's not so bad!
My last tank came out to an even 18mpg, with a nice variety of driving styles. I've even tortured the stock axles with some Nittos, and they are acting like factory freaks. I'm sure someday they will give up for no good reason, in the rain, out in BFE, while doing 70 on the freeway, causing me to spill pop all over my center console, but so far so good. Don't fear the gear, especially with an automagic! You'll love 4.10s. Or 4.56s...
My last tank came out to an even 18mpg, with a nice variety of driving styles. I've even tortured the stock axles with some Nittos, and they are acting like factory freaks. I'm sure someday they will give up for no good reason, in the rain, out in BFE, while doing 70 on the freeway, causing me to spill pop all over my center console, but so far so good. Don't fear the gear, especially with an automagic! You'll love 4.10s. Or 4.56s...
BurningRubber
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03ghoststang
Well-Known Member
svttech76 said:
yeah but the method i use is 99.999999% correct on it that is why i stick with FRPP because they are so easy to install
well either rear end gear i end up getting, i will still need a shift kit and a stall.... i dont NEED them but i WANT them hahaha. im not made of money so throw me some stuff on those. i know a stall can run up to 400 and i havent looked into a shift kit but who makes good shift kits and good stalls? FFRP?
MY Cobra
Member
I think i would go with a tune next make the most of the money you have already put in to your other mods.They can adjust your shift points. I had this done on my 2000 automatic. I put 4.10s then got a tune it shifts hard i love it.
my95gtstang said:
03ghoststang
Well-Known Member
but first thing before you do gears is to install a trans cooler you'll do your trans a big favor
03ghoststang
Well-Known Member
my95gtstang said:
the B&M trans cooler kit its like 65 bucks has everything you need here is the part number #70264
03ghoststang said:
Yeah most of the time the pinion depth will still be in spec but ANY brand pinion will do this not just FFRP.. the pinion bearings are usually what throws the pinion depth out of spec.. In fact the Ford special tool does not have us measure the pinion at all, we install the races in the housing and place the bearings in the races and thread this special tool in with a block on it facing the carrier.. in place of the carrier is a tube and we measure the distance from the block to the tube.. Notice they don't have us measure the pinion at all.
trust me I have set up a few of these things over the years..
My own car is set up the same way you did it becuase some ass stole the 8.8 stuff our of the pinion depth tool set.. I will buy my own soon but just the 8.8 stuff cost almost 300 bucks. the master kit to do all ford rearends is almost 1,000
Funny thing is many people wonder why dealers charge so much , one of the reasons is the hundreds of thousands of dollars worth of special tools we have that private shops don't.. sure we techs have our own tools but the shop has to have so much stuff it's not even funny.
03ghoststang
Well-Known Member
svttech76 said:Yeah most of the time the pinion depth will still be in spec but ANY brand pinion will do this not just FFRP.. the pinion bearings are usually what throws the pinion depth out of spec.. In fact the Ford special tool does not have us measure the pinion at all, we install the races in the housing and place the bearings in the races and thread this special tool in with a block on it facing the carrier.. in place of the carrier is a tube and we measure the distance from the block to the tube.. Notice they don't have us measure the pinion at all.
trust me I have set up a few of these things over the years..
My own car is set up the same way you did it becuase some ass stole the 8.8 stuff our of the pinion depth tool set.. I will buy my own soon but just the 8.8 stuff cost almost 300 bucks. the master kit to do all ford rearends is almost 1,000
Funny thing is many people wonder why dealers charge so much , one of the reasons is the hundreds of thousands of dollars worth of special tools we have that private shops don't.. sure we techs have our own tools but the shop has to have so much stuff it's not even funny.
Wow 1,000 bucks for the master kit since it covers all rearends thats cool but it is pricey......... and i agree as to why the charges are the way they are
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