roller 5.0 in a classic

[thexrcist68]

who in here is running a 86 or later roller 5.0 engine in their classic,
im planning on doing this swap on my cougar over the winter, seems like it should be a pretty simple swap, but theres probaly something im overlooking
also is it possible to keep the serpentine belt setup. i know im going to need a new radiator because of the water pump, but its there anything else
thanks guys

also, gt40 heads require special headers right???

 

[bnickel]

should be a bolt in swap with the serpentine system even, but you may have accessory problems depending on what your car has now, ps, ac etc.

i would recommend keeping your stock heads though, you'll get a pretty decent boost in compression and the 68 heads flow about as well the late model heads plus they don't have the thermactor ports drilled like the late heads do. in fact i'd either run ported 68 heads or aftermarket heads instead of the stock late model "smog" heads. early windsor heads would be a good choice too.


as for the headers you'll only need special ones with the gt-40P heads. stock gt-40 heads don't need special headers.

 

[fastaggie]

Are you planning on keeping the FI?

 

[thexrcist68]

no, i was planning on using my Eddy performer intake and holley carb from my current engine, along with a proform HEI distributor.

as far as the heads go, the ones on the 68 block are stock D8OE-J, and they will need a full rebuild,
(got some burned valves etc.) they are probably warped cause i blew a HG a couple days ago and overheated it pretty bad, and i will have them ported if i go that route,
but i can get a good deal on a set of rebuilt gt-40s with that have some port work done already
i will definitely not use the stock 86 heads cause supposedly thery the worst heads made by ford in along time
any other opinions on this
and its a 86 block so its got the flat top pistons, what kind of CR would i be looking at with the different heads

 

[Bullitt]

GT-40s don't require special headers, GT-40P heads do.

you may have clearance issues with the serpentine setup, but if you go that route you'll have to clearance for the radiator anyways...

the only thing you will have to do, is buy an adapter for the clutch z-bar mount if you have a stock type linkage. if you have a cable or hydraulic clutch setup, no issues.

also, make sure you switch gears on your distributor to a steel one for the roller cam.

 

[thexrcist68]

well im using a c4 trans so i dont have to worry about any linkage problems, on that note the engine is from a stick car, what tooth # flexplate do i need to look for to work with the c4 and my existing starter with that engine

also the heads im looking at getting are aluminum gt-40s, will these work ok with the flat top pistons that are in the motor, and any reccomendations on a cam? i was thinking of keeping the stock cam, but will it be enough to support the heads?
keep the input comin, yall are a great help

 

[Hack]

The '86 5.0 motor is the only one with true flat top pistons. There are no valve reliefs. In order to run "E" or GT-40 heads you will need to get valve reliefs cut into the pistons. I would say that GT-40 heads are the best choice, though. They have lower compression than 60's heads so they can run modern crap gas, and better ports to get great power anyway.

Are you running a mechanical or electrical fuel pump? If a mechanical you have to swap timing covers and eccentrics.

You also need to plug the block oil dipstick hole to use an oil pan that fits the classic. The older timing cover will have a provision for a front dipstick. The serpentine accessory brackets on my '89 motor somewhat interferes with the older dipstick, but you can bend it to make it fit. That's what I did.

 

[Stangboy67]

I placed a '90 5.0 and T-5 in my '67. Kept the Serpentine setup and no issues with clearence, even with the upgraded 3-core radiator. I swapped over the Edelbrock intake and carb from the 289 and they work great on the 5.0. I went with an electric fuel pump (Holley Red pump as it is already pressure regulated) mounted near the tank to avoid the timing cover issue. Heed the previous advice related to the distributer gear.

The only other issue I can think of at the moment relates to the power streering pump. If using the '86 model pump, you will have to have someone make up a hose to work as the fitting at the pump is different. I ended up buying a hose from a late model and having that spliced into my early model hose. The end result is the late model end at the pump and the early model end at the power valve. If going with headers, it might be worth adding a bit of length to route it around the headers.

 

[65ShelbyClone]

on that note the engine is from a stick car, what tooth # flexplate do i need to look for to work with the c4 and my existing starter with that engine

i was thinking of keeping the stock cam, but will it be enough to support the heads?
keep the input comin, yall are a great help

I don't know the tooth count, but you do need a 50oz flywheel for the 5.0 and not a 28.

Running a smal cam with good heads won't be a problem, you'll just make more low-end and midrange by sacrificing top-end power. You'll still see healthy gains.

 

[Hack]

I don't know the tooth count, but you do need a 50oz flywheel for the 5.0 and not a 28.

Running a smal cam with good heads won't be a problem, you'll just make more low-end and midrange by sacrificing top-end power. You'll still see healthy gains.

157 tooth. I found a flexplate cheap on the Corral.

 

[Hack]

I placed a '90 5.0 and T-5 in my '67. Kept the Serpentine setup and no issues with clearence, even with the upgraded 3-core radiator. I swapped over the Edelbrock intake and carb from the 289 and they work great on the 5.0. I went with an electric fuel pump (Holley Red pump as it is already pressure regulated) mounted near the tank to avoid the timing cover issue. Heed the previous advice related to the distributer gear.

The only other issue I can think of at the moment relates to the power streering pump. If using the '86 model pump, you will have to have someone make up a hose to work as the fitting at the pump is different. I ended up buying a hose from a late model and having that spliced into my early model hose. The end result is the late model end at the pump and the early model end at the power valve. If going with headers, it might be worth adding a bit of length to route it around the headers.

How did you set up your oil dipstick? The late model dipstick is in the driver's side of the block, and it interfered with my oil pan. I tapped the block for an 1/8" NPT pipe threads and put a plug in there.

 

[65ShelbyClone]

I know you weren't addressing me, but I used a small freeze/welch plug to cork the dipstick hole. FYI, the 5.0 pans are stamped with a clearance bulge for the block-mounted dipsticks.

The freeze plug was a PITA to find, at least around here. I think it's around 3/8".

 

[Hack]

I know you weren't addressing me, but I used a small freeze/welch plug to cork the dipstick hole. FYI, the 5.0 pans are stamped with a clearance bulge for the block-mounted dipsticks.

The freeze plug was a PITA to find, at least around here. I think it's around 3/8".

Seems like a good way. The 1/8" NPT plug I used was easy to find, but the hole seemed a little large for the tap IMO. I was wondering where the dipstick would go if the timing cover wasn't replaced, though.

 

[65ShelbyClone]

I wish I could take credit for the idea, but that is how my block came when I bought it. Ford set it up for the early apps by plugging the hole, but it went into my '89 GT before I put it in the '68 so I had to replace it.

 

[Stangboy67]

How did you set up your oil dipstick? The late model dipstick is in the driver's side of the block, and it interfered with my oil pan. I tapped the block for an 1/8" NPT pipe threads and put a plug in there.

I also plugged the side hole in a similiar way. For the dipsticks new location, there is a slightly raised, flat area on the passenger side of the late model timing cover that I drilled out the size of the dipstick and was good to go. I believe it was the same location as the early model dipstick location. It looks as though Ford left the mold as was and just didn't drill them out. I also had to tweak the dipstick tube a bit to get it around the serpentine bracket and alternator, but it has worked well for the last 11 years.

 

[57fairlane]

not sure about the stock cam in an 86, but 87-93s can make plenty for the bolt-on guys with 1.7 rockers.

I had a friend of mine with a 92 hatch with ported Windsor Sr., ported RPM-II, long-tubes/prochamber/super40s make almost 300rwhp with a stick.

 

[65ShelbyClone]

The speed density cams are supposedly slightly more aggressive than the mass air bumpstick. Even the mass air cam isn't too bad. There is a lotof power to be had with a cam, but the stock .444" lift mass air roller will make decent power and a ton of torque with aftermarket top end parts. It's also a good blower/turbo cam due to the reduced overlap.

 

[bnickel]

The speed density cams are supposedly slightly more aggressive than the mass air bumpstick. Even the mass air cam isn't too bad. There is a lotof power to be had with a cam, but the stock .444" lift mass air roller will make decent power and a ton of torque with aftermarket top end parts. It's also a good blower/turbo cam due to the reduced overlap.

the 86 motor is the speed density motor. supposedly the cam from this engine was the hot setup to use in the 93 cobra motors when combined with the 1.7 ratio roller rockers from the cobra motor.

 

[65ShelbyClone]

Yeah, thexrcist68's would be. All 1987, and 49-state 88 SEFI engines were speed density also. I was just saying for general knowledge.