same setup i have listed in my sig but with a 150 shot. . . . should i be worried about cracking a block? im running 114 octane so detonation should not be too big of an issue. I have the timing set at 12 degrees initial, window switch and 2 step colder plugs. . . i guess all i can do is pray and hold on because im sure it will be one hell of a ride! w
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352Ford2
New Member
My recamend:
1st pass run without the bottle, read plugs check everthing out, etc.
if everything is good run a pass on the lowest setting on the n20 kit (lets say 100 shot, no need to be a hero on the first run), take timing out, and only spray on the first 2 or 3 gears, get out of the gas and spray, kill igntion, coast off the track, pull a plug or 8 and check it.
if everything is good work your way up with spraying in higher gears and more spray, and when you end up at the setting of N2O your are going to stay at then start fine tuning the timing.
I highly recomed getting a nootbook to log everything (jets (carb and n20), air temp, timing, track conditons, etc) even a dig camera pics of plugs to cooralate to your setups.
if you have a probem with your setup it is much better to find it spraying a 50 shot in 1st gear than 200 shot in 4th gear. If you hear anything bad or does't feel right, get out of it, its not worth losing an engine over.
1st pass run without the bottle, read plugs check everthing out, etc.
if everything is good run a pass on the lowest setting on the n20 kit (lets say 100 shot, no need to be a hero on the first run), take timing out, and only spray on the first 2 or 3 gears, get out of the gas and spray, kill igntion, coast off the track, pull a plug or 8 and check it.
if everything is good work your way up with spraying in higher gears and more spray, and when you end up at the setting of N2O your are going to stay at then start fine tuning the timing.
I highly recomed getting a nootbook to log everything (jets (carb and n20), air temp, timing, track conditons, etc) even a dig camera pics of plugs to cooralate to your setups.
if you have a probem with your setup it is much better to find it spraying a 50 shot in 1st gear than 200 shot in 4th gear. If you hear anything bad or does't feel right, get out of it, its not worth losing an engine over.
352Ford2
New Member
the first time i ran nitrous was the day before the drag races. If i was going to blow my engine up it wasn't going to be infront of a crowd. Took a bunch of friends and a cam corder to a empty stretch of road. Oh yah my wife and my mom were there too. test went great. Since then i have stepped it up to 150 hp shot. Mind you my car ran same times with the 100 hp jets in. I think the sniper nitrous system has 2 small of solinoids to flow 150 hp.
willys1
Active Member
352Ford2
New Member
a 10 second pass would be so far beyond my comprehension when i first started building this car. . . i really suprised myself. A bunch of people were telling me this combo would never work! Thanks for all the support guys, im going to fun ford in ennis this weekend, but i will have to jet the car down some due to not having a cage
willys1
Active Member
yeah some of my friends said it melted the tires off through 1st and 2nd! one of my good friends has a bad ass 69 mustang with a 460 based 545 solid roller full weight car that went 11.01@ 122 and he hooked . . . . so it must be my tireswillys1 said:
myhome track is also notorious for not having good track prep. . . two 10 second cars have already wrecked due to them not prepping the track. You would think if you saw 4 cars in a row about lose it in THE SAME SPOT , they would stop the action and go check out?
willys1
Active Member
A set of M/T's DR's would do you justice!!Modular2v said:yeah some of my friends said it melted the tires off through 1st and 2nd! one of my good friends has a bad ass 69 mustang with a 460 based 545 solid roller full weight car that went 11.01@ 122 and he hooked . . . . so it must be my tires
Curse
Member
:Word: Nice run, the taller slicks should help with your 60ft times as well as your gear problem. 10s are in the bagModular2v said:i would rather have slicks
bluevenom867
I will have images of molesting stuffed animals in
Modular2v said:
LOL!!
I dont know about that,run that good gas when you go out and keep it off the limiter,it will hold toghter fine.
Go with the 28x10.5 M/T ET DRAG slicks
Or if you want to try out the radials, 275/60/15 they are harder to hook off the line,you got to play around with them alot.But they do ride nicer at the big end,maybe a little more mph even.
willys1
Active Member
Quick times dont kill blocks, only big HP. For a stock block anything above 450 is pushing it. 500+ means its only a matter of time!Modular2v said:
funny you say that because i just ordered a pair of 28x10.5 m/t et drags!!!! So you think think that stock block will really be ok or were just laughing because u agreed with me?bluevenom867 said:LOL!!
I dont know about that,run that good gas when you go out and keep it off the limiter,it will hold toghter fine.
Go with the 28x10.5 M/T ET DRAG slicks
352Ford2
New Member
How much does your car weigh?
Well with your 125 mph trap time and with weight of 3200lb's with you in it, its probibly around 400 RWHP and prob around 475 at the FW
how many RPM's are you turning? People talk about power breaking blocks, but it is the coming together of many varibles that make a block split, and RPM is a huge one.
It has an expontial effect
Well with your 125 mph trap time and with weight of 3200lb's with you in it, its probibly around 400 RWHP and prob around 475 at the FW
how many RPM's are you turning? People talk about power breaking blocks, but it is the coming together of many varibles that make a block split, and RPM is a huge one.
It has an expontial effect
