Is there a way to make the C&L 73 MM MAF work with my combo without a custom tune?

[Ozrunner]

Ideally, you should find a stock MAS (just the little black box / sensor) for your COMPUTER. Doing this will make the C&L match the injectors as best as possible.

Thanks Jason, now I am understanding. Probably why the Pro M is working better on the stock MAF I am currently using.

So a C&L "calibrated " MAF means you still use your stock electronics and the change is that the C&L has a different tube etc in order to run 24's ?

Whereas a Pro M calibrated electronics would normally be used on a stock MAF.

Therefore, as you say using the Pro M on a C&L would be a mismatch. Seems odd the dude sold it to me in this configuration and it seems it may also have the wrong tube.

If the car is A9* computer equipped, then a F1ZF MAS should be correct. They are common in junk yards. Look for taurus, crown vic, and others. Anything marked F1ZF.

Don't have a A9 ECU and none of those cars are common in OZ junkyards but no probs I have some FIZF MAS's and will do some more swapping around etc and testing today.

All this is follow up to my 8 stack trumpet project I posted http://forums.stangnet.com/showthread.php?t=634775

Yesterday I ordered a set of AFR 185's and got a new CC XE274HR cam It maybe that a Tweecer will be required in the end.

 

[Ozrunner]

Well today I cured the slightly lean at WOT issue

Not 100% sure why it did it but as I have a few spare Ford 73mm MAFS I decided to cut the guts out of one using a die grinder etc so that there was only the tube section running down the outside edge, like the C&L etc.

The cross bar in these MAFS does appear to be very restrictive

A test run using the Pro "Flow" electronics ( not Pro M and I don't know if its the same company ) on the now gutted Ford 73mm MAF proved the problem was now resolved as the a/f ratio at WOT now fluctuates from 12.3-12.6 depending on gear and load etc so its now much better, whereas with this bar it was 13.5-13.8.

I visited a shop about the C&L tubes but although he had a few it was virtually impossible to determine what mine was or whether his were actually for a 73mm MAF or otherwise as none of the colours matched basic Mustangs MAFs on C&L's webpage.

Surely they can make the ID of each tube a lot clearer

But in any event the modified Ford MAF now works perfect so now I know its sweet I can do the head and cam swap and go to the next stage

 

[vristang]

Well today I cured the slightly lean at WOT issue

Not 100% sure why it did it but as I have a few spare Ford 73mm MAFS I decided to cut the guts out of one using a die grinder etc so that there was only the tube section running down the outside edge, like the C&L etc.

The cross bar in these MAFS does appear to be very restrictive

A test run using the Pro "Flow" electronics ( not Pro M and I don't know if its the same company ) on the now gutted Ford 73mm MAF proved the problem was now resolved as the a/f ratio at WOT now fluctuates from 12.3-12.6 depending on gear and load etc so its now much better, whereas with this bar it was 13.5-13.8.

I visited a shop about the C&L tubes but although he had a few it was virtually impossible to determine what mine was or whether his were actually for a 73mm MAF or otherwise as none of the colours matched basic Mustangs MAFs on C&L's webpage.

Surely they can make the ID of each tube a lot clearer

But in any event the modified Ford MAF now works perfect so now I know its sweet I can do the head and cam swap and go to the next stage

I checked out the pics of your setup
Holy !@#$
Very well done.

That combo is not how I would have done it, but if it works go with it.
It would be good to get a tweecer on there just to dial in that MAF/MAS combo a little better. Things may be well at wot, but at idle and cruising speeds there is still potential for error.

Please continue to keep us posted on your progress,
jason