Ign Switch wiring connections

[1966ponyguy]

I am finishing the new wiring and have ran into a question. Looking at the picture, the spade post in the 6 oclock position, should connect to the battery as incoming power. The threaded connection in the center is key controlled power out, the spade connection at about 2 oclock engages the starter sol through the s connection on the sol. The spade terminal at about 11:30 position is the coil / run position. The last spade connection on the outside of the connector that is in the 5 oclock position I can not find on any diagrams. Help .......... Am I correct on the other positions, what does the last spade terminal connect to, and roughly how many amps should a replacement ign switch be able to carry?

Once again, thanks in advance

 

[66Runt]

I think you are correct

I checked the service manual, and I come up with the same pattern you did. Unfortunately my ignition switch is buried behind the A/C ducting. So I couldn't confirm it visually.
(IIRC) The spade at the 5:00 position is a ground spade, not used. You should double check that though. If you have a meter, and I am correct the spade will have zero resistance with the body of the switch.
If you have a meter you can ring out the rest of the spades too. That way you can't go wrong.

If nothing else, at least this will get you a bump back up.

Good luck,

Scott

 

[1966ponyguy]

Rated Amps for Ign switch

Does anyone out there know how many amps is safe to run through the switch? I have added relays to my H4 headlights and horn, can everything else run through the key switch. I have a new fuse block that uses the blade type fuses but only has one power feed. Since I have reduced the pull of the largest power drawers (no electric fan, and the fuel pump is controlled by a relay from the efi harness), will the switch power the fuse block safely. The block is rated for 100 amps, and has seperate ground connections that i plan on using for some of the circuits. I can't find anywhere that gives a clue about the ign switch power rating?

The ground connection makes since, I will test it out.

 

[truck90278]

You should run the power lead of the new fuse block to the battery. You do NOT want to run any significant amperage thru the ignition switch.

 

[66Runt]

I've got to agree with Truck on that one

Looks like the original system would load to about 30A with coil, wipers, heater, radio, etc. Not sure I dig that though. I'd like to limit it to 20A or less. Funny I've never looked at it from this point before. makes me want to put a relay on the stupid thing now
Of course, it's been working for over 40 years, so I guess that old switch must be pretty well built. Wonder if the replacements are that good?