PI Intake/Cam install problem

#61
Outlaw97GT said:
Looks to me that the intake already has gaskets made in it, the o-ring gaskets. Ive seen a few intakes like that.

If so, there is your problem, your trying to use 2 sets of gaskets and it leaking through the two. The intakes with the o-ring gaskets made in it , you don't use any other gaskets.
Just use a little RTV around the coolant ports only, and you'll be set....:nice:
Click to expand...

Ehh...what? I know for sure there isn't a gasket on the manifold. That picture is just of the manifold upside down with the 2 gaskets I just bought today sitting on it...
 

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#62
Dusstbuster said:
pinhole coolant leak or pinhole air leak? so it probably wouldn't hurt if we did a small ring of RTV on the heads around the coolant ports or would that in turn make it sit a little higher possibly and then cause vacuum leaks...
Click to expand...

air leak. No RTV around the coolant ports when using NPI gaskets.

Outlaw97GT said:
Looks to me that the intake already has gaskets made in it, the o-ring gaskets. Ive seen a few intakes like that.

If so, there is your problem, your trying to use 2 sets of gaskets and it leaking through the two. The intakes with the o-ring gaskets made in it , you don't use any other gaskets.
Just use a little RTV around the coolant ports only, and you'll be set....:nice:
Click to expand...

that would be a distinct possibility, but why would there be NPI gaskets built into a PI manifold? Unless I'm not seeing something (which is possible)
 
#64
Ahh nope, I got the intake from karkraft. No gaskets and had to get it drilled. That intake looks like a lot less of a headache though, just set it down and you're good to go? Maybe it would have been worth it to fork out the extra $40 or whatever to get that, I mean...it comes with gaskets ($16) and tapped for the 2nd sensor ($15). Oh well, live and learn, you get what you pay for.

We've got the newest set of gaskets on the manifold right now with RTV around the air ports, curing as we speak. Think we should bring it inside if it's going to freeze out tonight? Tomorrow we'll slap it back on for the 800th time and hopefully be good to go!
 
#67
P0300 still.

Someone wanna inform me exactly what knock/ping/detonation is supposed to sound like? When you're under the car it sounds like every once and awhile someone is like inside the exhaust tubing and slightly knocking on it...a metal creaking noise/knocking noise. I'm assuming that's why it's called "knock"?
 
#68
jjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjj jjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjj jjjjjjjjjjjjj

stangGT97 said:
nice shocker hahaha

When I did my intake originally w/ the NPIs, put the gasket onto the manifold first, then sealed where the gasket missed. If you put it onto the head, there is no way of telling if you've used enough rtv to insure a good seal... either that or you use way too much. It is really hard to tell from those pictures, but it almost looks like you're trying to seal up the gaskets on the head, not where they miss on the intake. here is a picture of my intake when it was done..

632766_38_full.jpg



As you can see, the gaskets don't seal the port on the side facing the runners, so you just need rtv there, not all over the head. I almost guarantee you have a massive vacuum leak where your gaskets are not sealing the intake ports properly. Thats an easy enough fix, but I recommend using the PI gaskets this time though, and only using a dab of RTV where it doesn't seal the water jacket all the way.
Click to expand...
 
#69
I have changed my intake and did not use any rtv and had no leaks from the bottom of the intake. but i think i over tightened my thermostat housing and cracked my replacement intake there. Where did you purchase the intake in this picture, and is that aluminum on the front of the intake?
 
#70
JOE 98 4.6 GT said:
I have changed my intake and did not use any rtv and had no leaks from the bottom of the intake. but i think i over tightened my thermostat housing and cracked my replacement intake there. Where did you purchase the intake in this picture, and is that aluminum on the front of the intake?
Click to expand...

I got that intake from Americanmuscle.com w/ the stangnet discount. Did you install a PI intake or an NPI intake onto your heads? If you did PI to NPI, I'm surprised you have no leaks without using RTV. There are clearly spots where the NPI gaskets fail to seal the PI manifold, and spots where the PI gaskets do not seal the water jackets. The manifold I have has the aluminum crossover, I'd assume that pretty much any replacement intake you buy now has it.
 
#71
Dusstbuster said:
P0300 still.

Someone wanna inform me exactly what knock/ping/detonation is supposed to sound like? When you're under the car it sounds like every once and awhile someone is like inside the exhaust tubing and slightly knocking on it...a metal creaking noise/knocking noise. I'm assuming that's why it's called "knock"?
Click to expand...

best description of detonation I've heard was shaking marbles in a coffee can. There is no way the manifold can be your culprit now... it has to be somewhere in the cam install... unfortunately I've never done one so I wouldn't know where to look
 
#73
Well being as i've never sat and listened to what my engine used to sound like at idle, I don't know if all these random noises are supposed to be there or not. At one point though it sounded like every once and awhile there was a little dwarf in my exhaust that would tap on the sides or something...don't know how to explain it really! It was at idle too yes. Now i'm beginning to think it's cam related just for the fact that the idle is so rough, when you sit in the car when we start it you can just feel everything shaking the idle is so rough. I don't get what could have gone wrong with the cams though!

What's the best way to check and make sure the timing is correct or that everything cam-wise is correct? I'll tell you this much, I am NOT taking the chain cover off. I'm not messing with the pulleys and stuff like that, if it comes to that i'm selling the car. Also if it's a head gasket (will be testing compression on monday night or tuesday of next week) i'll be selling the car too probably, or the engine at least. I'm sick of messing with it, it's not fun anymore, it hasn't been fun the last 2 times.

Here is what the latest setup involved: New copper core plugs, NPI gasket sealed like StangGT97 said. We tested all the plug wires and none of them are broken, all resist according to my dads voltmeter. New oil and filter, and yeah...thats all I can think of right now. Not sure if its leaking coolant again or not, we didn't run it long enough to find out. We did check the plugs once since we started it up this time and they looked fine for once, but last time it didn't start leaking til the thermostat had opened and the coolant was flowing a little better. This weeks been the worst i've had in awhile. Family friend found out he has lung cancer in both lungs, I just failed a Calculus test, its raining and my bonnevilles windshield wipers don't work and the sunroof on it leaks, and the Mustang has been dead for a week and a half now...I hate cars.
 
#76
i have a quick one regarding the cam install.. I read in a modular building book that you need to bleed the lifters of all oil before re-installing them, was this done? is it likely to make a difference?

Good luck dude... I have a whole PI swap waiting to go on but I'm following your progress first :)

EDGE
 
#77
Edge my suggestion for you would probably be: do the install in phases. Do the cams first or manifold first, then get it running, that way you can pinoint what part is the actual problem with the install.

Outlaw, we've let it run for about 5-10 minutes, giving it light little revs every once and awhile. Once again though, putting it into gear causes it to start missing bad and popping from the exhaust.
 
#78
Ok, Modular D epot has a great cam install guide, which got me thinking. Is there any way you put the cams on the wrong side? I just want to get this out of the way. You kept tension on the chains at all times and made sure you didnt skip any teeth, but if you swapped sides, you will get one hell of a lot of problems on start up. The cams are designated left and right, with left being drivers side, right is passenger side. I think you should look at this article... Just change the ***** part to Modular D epot (with no spaces), for some reason Stangnet blocks that name...
http://www.************.com/?show=articlesdet&aid=39

I hope this helps you. Don't give up man, there have been many times that I've wanted to sell my car but I kept going and managed to fix whatever the ailment was.
 
#79
Well when we swapped the cams we 1) checked the lobes to make sure they lined up and 2) Jason (JasonH on here) had labeled his cams RIGHT and LEFT. We're going to run a compression test on it today and see how that turns out.
 
#80
Did you get the right "right and left"? Left would be the drivers side. Sometimes the mistake is made by thinking left is looking from the front of the car.

As far as pulling the the pullies, accessories and timeing chain cover...it's not that hard. Take a step back, a deep breath, and figure out the problem. Once you get it solved you will forget about the problems. If you decide to tackle it go over the timeing tutorial and make sure you follow the steps outlined.
 
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