My 8.8 project finished

gbarber

Member
Jan 26, 2004
158
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17
delaware, ohio
After recently converting from a C4 to a T-5 in my '66 coupe, I was itching to put new gears in the rear of my car. Not having much of a budget to work with, I decided to try installing an 8.8 Explorer rearend with a 3.73 Traction-Lok differential. I realize this topic has been beat to death, but I just wanted to share my experience.
I figured that rebuilding my 8" with a new differential and 3.80 gears would cost at least $600. I managed to complete this conversion for around $345. This includes rebuilding the Traction-Lok, and buying an aluminum driveshaft and having it shortened. I didn't need a new driveshaft, but I thought it was cool. I have more time than money. I wish I had the cash to rebuild my 8" or buy a 9" housing made to fit my car, but I took the 8.8 route.
I found many Explorers in local junkyards which had 3.73 limited slip rearends. I bought one out of a 1992 Explorer with rear drum brakes for $100. I have found many with rear disc brakes, but I wanted to retain my 14" styled steel wheels, and I was concerned they would not clear the disc brake setup. Plus, I had recently rebuilt my rear drum brakes on my 8" rear, and I was hoping to re-use these on the 8.8. I have to give credit to the Mustang Steve forum for a lot of the information I got on this conversion.
The result: Overall I'm very happy with the conversion. It took longer to complete than I had hoped and was a lot of hard work, but I think I am more satified having done this myself rather than buying a new housing. Because one side of the Explorer housing is 3" longer than the other, I shortened the it 3" and used two of the shorter axles. I also modified my rear drum brakes a little and used them on the new rearend. Everything pretty much lined up. I didn't have to modify the emergency brake at all. The most difficult part of the project (aside from getting the axle tube out of the center section, shortening it 3", and pressing it back into the center) was making sure all of the bearings lined up after welding. It just took a long time, and I have little patience.

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Please excuse my dirty fuel tank.
 
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I'll try to take a good measurement of the overall length tonight after work. I can't remember off the top of my head what the length is. I knew in advance that it would be shorter than my original 8" housing by nearly an inch, but I never took a good measurement from the mounting surfaces of my setup.

Why an 8.8? Well, the biggest thing to me was my budget. I really have very little cash to spend on this car. 8.8's are very easy to find and they are cheap. They can be built pretty strong if you want that, and rear disc brakes cars are common.
 
PJx5x - The width from wheel mounting surface to wheel mounting surface is 56 1/2". I think the original 8" was closer to 57 1/2". I am using 7/16" spacers on each side.

Markus - Wow. Your install looks much cleaner than mine. Looks great.

65mistress - I have several pictures that I took as I made progress.

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This is the spring perch installed


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It's hard to see, but here is one of the perches prior to painting.

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Here is another installed photo.

I welded the spring perches on with my mig welder. I think I could have welded the tube in, but I have a friend who has a lot of experience building rearends. He showed me how to straighten the housing as he added weld. He used a tig welder to weld the plug welds and the seams.
 
Add a girdle and you've got one very strong rear end

A stud kit and girdle go a long way to supporting the carrier caps. For over 400HP applications I'd highly recommend this upgrade.
The other nice thing about the 8.8" is it's efficiency in comparison to the 8" or 9" differentials. Put's more of the available power to the ground, and is good for fuel efficiency as well.
BTW: ain't nothing wrong with drum brakes. They are more than capable for the average driver. :nice:
Nice work!