power windows?

[THX 138]

who has power windows? :SNSign:

 

[reenmachine]

I have installed the "Electric Life" power window kits in several early Mustangs and they work great. I get the kits from Summit. The key to having them work really well is to really clean out the vertical window track, which after 40 years is caked with dried-up old grease. If you clean all of this out and regrease everything, the power windows zip up and down nicely.

 

[rc4mike]

power windows

reenmachine,

what do you grease the window glide with?
thanks
mike

 

[reenmachine]

reenmachine,

what do you grease the window glide with?
thanks
mike

White lithium grease from a spray can. I love that stuff.

 

[THX 138]

I found my summit. they don't have the '67 rear windows listed. Would it be the same as the earlier ones?

 

[reenmachine]

I found my summit. they don't have the '67 rear windows listed. Would it be the same as the earlier ones?

Yeah, they're the same. I remember noticing that when I bought mine for the 'vert.

 

[65 fastback]

I've got power windows and power door locks and highly reccomend them both. I got both kits and the switches from A-1 Electric - http://a1electric.com/classics.htm - and was very pleased.

The power window kit installation is very straight forward. The hardest (most time consuming) part was running all of the electric wire.

Out with the old window regulator, in with the new. The new electric regulator just bolted right in. The install was very easy and the windows work great.

The hardest part was the wiring. Also, now that I don't need a window crank, I'm mounting a tweeter, for my component speakers, in the hole in my door panel.

 

[65 fastback]

I mounted the switches in my console. They're tied into the gauge lighting circuit, so when I turn the lights on they illuminate.

Tim

Also, I tied my power door locks into my car alarm system - Lock/Alarm and Unlock/Disarm alarm.

Tim

 

[stangkid88]

That install looks pretty clean in the console, good work!

 

[ForceFed70]

I also have the "electric life" windows and couldn't be happier.

I'd highly suggest you purchase the optional switch kit with wiring. Figuring out the wiring without the kit would be a nightmare. And I agree that the wiring is the hardest part.

The switch kit I bought came with little switch pods that I mounted to the door panel right where the window crank used to be. Looks great and covers the hole... you could almost fool someone into thinking they were OEM.

 

[chromedog]

there is a company, i cant remember the name of them, but they use the window crank handles to activate the power...nice if you dont want to ruin the appearance of your interior. they also work really well!

 

[ForceFed70]

there is a company, i cant remember the name of them, but they use the window crank handles to activate the power...nice if you dont want to ruin the appearance of your interior. they also work really well!

I looked at this when I was researching my power windows.

Unless they've changed something, I would NOT suggest getting these. Almost everyone I talked to had the same problem... they were too fragile. Always the same story... gave someone a ride, person thought they were regular handles so tried to "crank" them and they broke. And it's not like the passanger was reefing on them extra hard or something.

 

[rc4mike]

Tim, what speaker did you use in the footwells? I have the same panels, but can't find a speaker thin enough to fit w/o cutting metal behind the speaker. BTW...nice install on the window switches. How did you cut the metal? Dremel?

thanks
mike

 

[65 fastback]

if you dont want to ruin the appearance of your interior

I wouldn't go as far as to say that a tasteful modification is ruining your interior.

Tim

 

[65 fastback]

Tim, what speaker did you use in the footwells? I have the same panels, but can't find a speaker thin enough to fit w/o cutting metal behind the speaker. BTW...nice install on the window switches. How did you cut the metal? Dremel?

Mike,

I used a Kenwood component speaker. I can't think of the model number (I'll check later to let you know). They have a much smaller magnet, but still sound great. I, also, used a spacer ring (http://www.crutchfield.com/S-UJ4PVAQzleG/cgi-bin/ProdView.asp?g=103200&I=003SG600DX) and cut and pounded the opening a little larger.

Tim

 

[reenmachine]

If you've got a little extra $, the nicest power window switches & wiring I've seen come from Watson's Streetworks:

http://www.watsons-streetworks.com/power_stuff.html

The billet switches look great, light up at night, feel awesome when pressed, and are easy to install. The wiring is all pre-harnessed and is almost plug & play.

 

[Rusty67]

How much heavier are the electric regulators over a stock crank regulator ? Also, how hard could the wiring be ? Isn't it just 1 power wire in and 1 ground wire out or is it a relay with 2 power and 2 ground ?

 

[65 fastback]

How much heavier are the electric regulators over a stock crank regulator ? Also, how hard could the wiring be ? Isn't it just 1 power wire in and 1 ground wire out or is it a relay with 2 power and 2 ground ?

The difference in weight is neglegable, probably a couple of ounces (see the first picture of reference).

The wiring wasn't difficult, just time consuming.
- remove the seats, door sills, door panels, kick panels, carpet
- pull a 12 volt ignition hot power source to your switch location
- pull a light illumination circuit from the back of your gauge cluster (if you want to illuminate your switches)
- Run the switched power to each window regulator.

The trickiest part is drilling the holes in the doors and door jambs to route the wire - A 90* drill is very useful here.

Tim

 

[truck90278]

Has anyone tried the Hanline electric window kits? What materials have been tried to cover/protect the wires between the door and the Jam? Anyone tried the flexible conduit kit that has a collar on either end?

 

[65 fastback]

Has anyone tried the Hanline electric window kits? What materials have been tried to cover/protect the wires between the door and the Jam? Anyone tried the flexible conduit kit that has a collar on either end?

http://www.a1electric.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=AEOS&Product_Code=Boot-Sm

Tim