Just bought a 89 LX with a 5.0 bored 30 over 410 posi trac and I need some help.

stevesLX

Member
Nov 12, 2006
373
0
16
cincinnati
I just purchased a 1989 Mustang LX. I t has a 302 bored 30 over,25lb injectors aluminum driveshaft World Class T5 Tranny and 410 Posi Trac.

For starters at 65-70mph in 5th gear what RPM's should I be at steady?
Also the guy I purchased this from doesn't know what size cam is in it. Is there anyway to find this info out without having to tear into the engine. At idol she really lopes. She lopes to the point where she sounds like shes going to stall out but if you just tap the gas she revs without missing a beat. So if there is someone out there with any answers to my questions could you please let me know. Thanks
 
  • Sponsors (?)


that stang sounds sweet!!! as far as the cam goes, i really don't know of a way to tell... but that is just me.
what rpm does the thing idle? the 67 rs that we just put back together has the biggest lift and duation that we could do without changing the springs.and she wants to chirp the tires at idle.
i know it is something that i would want to know the specs on the cam. call the guy and ask him if he can contact the engine builder for the build sheet. any builder that is worth a **** would have given him a build sheet. i always did.
 
Post up a clip of the idle. We won't be able to tell exactly what cam is in there, but it should help. If the car sounds like it wants to die it might be a running condition and not the cam itself. It's hard to tell without hearing it. As far as rpm @ mph, I would need to know your tire size, but it looks like it should be about 2300-2500 rpm in 5th @65mph w/4.10s. Hope this helps.
 
Checking the cam can be done, but it requires some specialized tools that may not be cheap.

Tools needed:
Degree wheel
Dial indicator with magnetic base
Dial indicator rods and swivel joints.

A degree wheel is mounted to the harmonic balancer and then TDC is located.

TDC location process courtesy of Michael Yount

Positive stop – obtain an old spark plug for the Ford engine – most of us have at least one laying around. Put it in your vice, and with a tool of destruction you deem appropriate – cut off the ground tip and bust up the ceramic around the center electrode. Keep pounding to get the ceramic and center electrode removed so you’ve got a good ¾” or so of hollow space inside what used to be the ‘business’ end of the spark plug. If you happen to break the ceramic on the other end of the spark plug, don’t worry about it. Once you’ve got a nice hollow space in the tip of the plug, take a 5/16” tap, and cut threads inside that end of the plug. I found that diameter to go right in without any drilling required. Once you’ve cut threads, screw in a 5/16" bolt about 1.5” to 2” long. Then take your hack saw and cut the head off the bolt. Wouldn’t hurt to take your file/grinder and dress up the freshly cut surface so no sharp edges or shrapnel enter the combustion chamber. Also clean up the threads on the plug so that it easily screws into and out of the plug hole.

Determining TDC – remove the passenger side valve cover. Rotate the engine (socket on crank bolt) until the #1 piston is down the cylinder on the intake stroke. Unscrew the spark plug in that cylinder, and replace it with the positive stop you just made. Only screw the positive stop in hand tight. Install your cam degree wheel and pointer (no easy task in some cases as harmonic balancer and other accessories will have to be removed). You may want to remove all spark plugs at this point because it will make it easier to smoothly turn the engine over in small increments. GENTLY rotate the engine clockwise until the piston comes to rest against the stop. Note the degree wheel reading. GENTLY rotate the engine in the opposite direction until the piston comes to rest against the stop. Note the degree wheel reading. TDC is exactly half way between these readings. Calculate where that position is on the degree wheel, remove the piston stop from the cylinder, and rotate the engine to TDC as you calculated it.

End of Michael Yount's helpful comments.


Crank the engine to TDC using the degree wheel to tell you where TDC is. Remove the passenger side valve cover and seat the dial indicator magnetic base on the machined valve cover gasket area of the cylinder head. Mount the dial indicator so that the indicator tip seats on the pushrod seat on the intake rocker. Zero the dial indicator by rotating the indicator bezel. Use a 15/16 socket to crank the engine while watching the dial indicator. When the valve lift starts to increase from 0, watch closely when it hits the .050 mark. Write the degree reading from the degree wheel. Continue rotating the engine noting peak lift and the number of degrees it takes to make peak lift. Continue rotating, watching the valve close, until you see the .050 point again. Write the degree reading from the degree wheel. Repeat the process with the exhaust valve and then you are done.

When you are finished, you will have a chart with this information
Intake opens .050 at xxx degrees
Intake max lift .zzz inches at xxx degrees
Intake closes .050 at xxx degrees

Exhaust opens .050 at xxx degrees
Exhaust max lift .zzz inches at xxx degrees
Exhaust closes .050 at xxx degrees

Post your results and someone can tell you the stock cam specs. If it turns out you have a stock cam, you have other problems to diagnose & fix.