StangGT1995 said:I'm running the Fel-Pro 1011-2 gaskets on mine, which were also specified by Trick Flow.
woodyy24 said:going to be n/a, TF recomends fel-pro 8548PT-2. was wondering if the 9333s would be better?
it was actually a B&M but same thing really.86bluecobra said:woody didn't you have a wiend S/C on your car? whats this N/A stuff.
which do you use?millhouse said:They only difference between the two listed is the 8548's have a tin firing ring while the 9333's use stainless. With that said, both will work just fine.
StangGT1995 said:The 1011-2 uses a pre-flattened copper ring to seal the combustion chamber, no loc wires. I'm running ARP studs to bolt them down. Don't remember the P/N off hand, but I picked up the ones that TF recommended. So far, I've only put 5-600 miles on it with no problems, but I'm also afraid to blow up my already tired T5...
I actually replied to a post in 5.0 Talk about having seen your car at JJC before.woodyy24 said:really? no problems? btw you live really close to me. (joliet)
StangGT1995 said:I actually replied to a post in 5.0 Talk about having seen your car at JJC before.
I used the ARP 154-4201 studs that TFS recommended. I ordered them at Winner's Circle in Joliet because they were actually cheaper than going through Summitracing. The need for the bushings to step down from 1/2" to 7/16" is only required on certain part numbers for their heads. I ordered part number TFS-51400004 when I got mine, with the upgraded dual valvesprings that are good up to .600" lift and have 7/16" rocker studs. They're pre-drilled for 7/16" head bolts/studs with that particular part number. I think the o-ringed heads are the only ones that come with 1/2" bolt holes. I also used the stock alignment dowels as I couldn't see spending $9.95 on new ones when the ones I already had looked perfectly fine. Feel free to shoot me a PM or if you have AIM/AOL, send me an IM (fiveliterstang95) if you have any more questions. Hell, I'm 10 minutes away, I could lend a hand if necessary.