maaco a bad choice as usual?

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About using Maaco. When I bought my car last year, the clear coat was peeling off the hood like skin from a sun burn. I was just going to deal with it because the car was going to be used for drag racing, not a show car. I hated the red with the silver bottom paint scheme!
I went to Maaco, the guy who ran the place was really good. I went with the stage 3 option which is paint and clear coat in 1. Cost me about $1000.00. Had the whole car painted dark blue mettalic. I really didn't have him do much prep, just the rear bumper that was cracking and a good ding on the drivers door. I'm very happy with the results. Like I said , it's not show quality, but it looks good to me. It depends what you are after. It depends who owns the shop also. I lucked out.The paint job gets good compliments at the drag strip. I was going to put a picture in this post. I can't figure out how?
 
jinx369 said:
I'm not as motivated to go to the junkyard.

Molding is my enemy. I re-applied each peice back onto my car, and the drivers side I finally gave up on. I'll let someone from the autobody deal with that nightmare. :mad:

I should have asked how to get the adhesive off, on :SNSign: before I did it myself. I used a combo of a leathermen, a knife, and my fingers to remove the adhesive tape. Who would of thought, it would be painful. :shrug:

If you want to remove the adhesive on the back or from the car the best way is to use a rubber eraser wheel. You put it in the end of your power drill and go to town, they work pretty well and cost about 5-10 dollars depending on brand.
 
93gtmustang said:
About using Maaco. When I bought my car last year, the clear coat was peeling off the hood like skin from a sun burn. I was just going to deal with it because the car was going to be used for drag racing, not a show car. I hated the red with the silver bottom paint scheme!
I went to Maaco, the guy who ran the place was really good. I went with the stage 3 option which is paint and clear coat in 1. Cost me about $1000.00. Had the whole car painted dark blue mettalic. I really didn't have him do much prep, just the rear bumper that was cracking and a good ding on the drivers door. I'm very happy with the results. Like I said , it's not show quality, but it looks good to me. It depends what you are after. It depends who owns the shop also. I lucked out.The paint job gets good compliments at the drag strip. I was going to put a picture in this post. I can't figure out how?

go get an account at www.photobucket.com its free or I wouldnt have it haha and upload the pictures there. Then copy the link and paste it here
 
When i relpaced a door, i had to swap moldings on that door and put on one on the driver's side rear that was always missing, i went to the junkyard for the missing one..it was rock hard so it didnt warp, the door side however did warp, so i took a propane torch and some pliers to it, there is a metal strip(2 actually) on the back, so i grabbed the end of it with pliers and lifted on the molding a bit and heated the back metal strip at the same time, this melted the glue and it came right off, then i hung it on a wall with a tiny finish nail to keep it straight for the 2 weeks we prepped the car, bought some good 3M door trim adhesive from the supply shop and stuck them back on, the only problem was the heat shrunk the molding length-wise about 3/4" so it was hard to get centered and look right, overall its a good way to make the strip straight, and i used a razorblade to get all the double sided sticky tape off the rest of em

~Mark~