car started but died need help

NJCstang

Founding Member
Apr 25, 2000
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Walker, La
I have gone through the check list and finally got the car started last night. I had to turn the distributor a little to get it to fire but when I let go of the distributor the car died and would not start back. I tried to reinstall the distibutor but that did not help either. I feel like an idiot not being able to get the timing right. Can anyone offer some advise on what might help? Could the distibutor be bad? Thanks
 
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Is it sparking, but just out of time? I don't know if this is a follow up to an original post I missed, but... Why did the car stop running? Did you pull the distributor for some reason, and now can't get it running again?

Jeff
 
Confused......

Are you getting good spark at the plugs?
Possibly the dist is not in the correct tooth, you are having to advance the cap alot to get it into the tuning curve.[
If you are not getting good spark start coil and work your way over.
 
I bought the car not fully assembled. I had to add the injectors, fuel line, intakes, and distributor. I get spark with the plugs out of the car and the car fires when I spray starting fluid in the motor but the car immediatly dies. The injectors are getting a pulse to fire (verified with a noid light) and I ahve 40psi of pressure in the lines. I did not have to move the distributor much to get it to start but after that first time it would not start again. I tried moving the distributor over one tooth and that didn't make any noticable difference. I have been fighting this thing for so long, getting it running would be the best Christmas present ever. Thanks for the help.
 
I would start by making sure the distributor is in correctly. Sorry if this is too basic...

Set the engine so #1 is at TDC on the compression stroke. To do that, pull out the #1 plug, put your thumb over the plug hole, and have a friend slowly turn the motor over (one click at a time, using the starter). When you feel the pressure in the cylinder try to blow your thumb out of the hole, you're close. Then look at the harmonic balancer, and line the mark up with the 10 degree mark on the timing cover. Take off the distributor cap, and the rotor should be pointing right about at the #1 post. If it's not, remove the distributor and re-install it with the rotor pointing at the #1 post. Try to make sure the distributor is in the middle of the "rotational range", so you can turn it one way or the other to get the timing perfect.

Note I said above to have the timing mark lined up with the 10 on the timing cover. That's because initial base timing should be 10 degrees. You could line it up with 0 if you wanted, you should have enough play in the distributor to get the timing right.

Also, double check to make sure your firing order is correct. Remember the rotor turns counter-clockwise, and the cylinders are numbered 1-4 front to back on the passenger side, 5-8 front to back on the drivers side. It's not a chevy! :D

I suppose it's possible the module on the distributor is bad. If you have a spare one around, you could replace that too.

Good luck!

Jeff
 
I would start by making sure the distributor is in correctly. Sorry if this is too basic...

Set the engine so #1 is at TDC on the compression stroke. To do that, pull out the #1 plug, put your thumb over the plug hole, and have a friend slowly turn the motor over (one click at a time, using the starter). When you feel the pressure in the cylinder try to blow your thumb out of the hole, you're close. Then look at the harmonic balancer, and line the mark up with the 10 degree mark on the timing cover. Take off the distributor cap, and the rotor should be pointing right about at the #1 post. If it's not, remove the distributor and re-install it with the rotor pointing at the #1 post. Try to make sure the distributor is in the middle of the "rotational range", so you can turn it one way or the other to get the timing perfect.

Note I said above to have the timing mark lined up with the 10 on the timing cover. That's because initial base timing should be 10 degrees. You could line it up with 0 if you wanted, you should have enough play in the distributor to get the timing right.

Also, double check to make sure your firing order is correct. Remember the rotor turns counter-clockwise, and the cylinders are numbered 1-4 front to back on the passenger side, 5-8 front to back on the drivers side. It's not a chevy! :D

I suppose it's possible the module on the distributor is bad. If you have a spare one around, you could replace that too.

Good luck!

Jeff

Thanks for the help. I have followed the above steps about three times now. I try putting the distributor in again and see if that helps. But it won't be today because it is raining. If the above is correct then what else would cause this problem? Could it be the pip sensor?
 
Have you checked for codes yet? A friend had a 3.8 t-bird that wouldn't start. It had fuel and spark, and the check engine light wasn't on. I loaned him my scan tool and it gave a code for some sensor that was bad. He replaced the sensor and it fired right up. Always worth it to check the codes...

Jeff
 
Look very closely at the spark - is it a nice fat, blue spark that jumps 3/8" or more? If the spark is thin or orange, you have ignition problems. First suspect item with an orange or thin spark is the ignition coil.
 
This might sound like a stupid question but does the spout need to be out when I stab the dizzy and try to get the car started for the first time? Once the car is running on its own then I can set the timing with a light and put the spout back in? I have not taken the spout out for this part because I thought that was just to advance the timing. Should I remove the spout and have someone crank the car while I turn the distributor to the right position? Thanks
 
No need to do anything with the SPOUT until you have the timing light in hand and are ready to time the engine.

Here's a little more help on putting the distributor back in.

Putting the distributor back in is fairly simple. Pull #1 sparkplug, put your finger in the sparkplug hole, crank the engine until you feel compression. Then line up the TDC mark on the balancer with the pointer on the engine block.

The distributor starts out with the #1 plug wire lined up at about 12:00 with you facing it. Align the rotor to about 11:00, since it will turn clockwise as it slides into place.

Align the distributor rotor up with the #1 position marked on the cap, slide the distributor down into the block, (you may have to wiggle the rotor slightly to get the gear to engage) and then note where the rotor is pointing. If it still lines up with #1 position on the cap, install the clamp and bolt. If not, pull it out and turn 1 tooth forwards or backwards and try again. Put the #1 spark plug back in and tighten it down, put the clamp on the distributor, but don't tighten it too much, as you will have to move the distributor to set the timing. Note that if it doesn't align perfectly with #1 position, you can turn the distributor until it does. The only problem is that if you are too far one way or the other, you can't turn the distributor enough to get the 10-14 degree optimum timing range.

At this point hook up all the wires, get out the timing light and start the engine. Set the timing where your car runs best. Don't forget to disconnect the SPOUT jumper connector when you set the timing, and plug it back in when you finish.