9-Second Mustang - Help me build one.

I'm not looking to go directly from a low-13 second car to a 9 second car, but I'd like to set high nines as my (albeit lofty) goal, and not waste too much money trying to get there piece by piece. I'm more than happy getting a few tenths at a time out of this.

Then you will need the right block to start off. I would recommend VT, MPH, or MMR blocks.

Then if you want 9's, your probably going to need the biggest KB/paxton/vortech, or whatever blower you decide to go with. I know the novi 2000 supports like 850WHP, but I don't think that's enough for 9's....

A 9 second car is sh1t-your-pants-fast.
 
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I have to admit, so far your repsonses have been more optimistic than I would have expected, believe it or not. The $15,000 figure was just a number I picked off the top of my head. No need to limit myself to that. I'm only limited by how fast I can actually make the money.

twogts4us has me figured out the best so far. I'm not looking to go directly from a low-13 second car to a 9 second car, but I'd like to set high nines as my (albeit lofty) goal, and not waste too much money trying to get there piece by piece. I'm more than happy getting a few tenths at a time out of this.

I will be buying cams (probably VT Stage 2 NA) for my current setup in January, but after that I'm not sure where to head with the car. (No, the cams are NOT part of the 9-second plan. They're just for fun for the time being.) I wouldn't mind getting a Kenne Bell, but I don't want to invest in that if it won't fit the car in the future. I'm fully aware that my stock block won't get me anywhere near nines, which is why I figured a good place to start would be getting a new engine. I have no idea how big an engine you can squeeze into my cramped engine bay, so some advice there would be helpful.

I should also clarify that while I do intend to drive the car on the street, by the time I actually do most of these major modifications, that car will not be my daily driver. Oh, and I live in Texas, so not being street legal isn't a big deal. Hell, I'm not street legal now, and it's still my daily.

I'm willing to do weight reduction, suspension work, replace the rear end, transmission, roll cage......whatever. I just need to know what to do. Again, I have no intention of using my 4.6 2V motor for this.

A good friend of mine has an 11 second TransAm that I've had the plasure of driving a few times. It's putting down a little over 400 hp to the wheels, and I can't even claim to be intimidated by driving it. He's going to be my real competition, and beating him has always been one of my goals. Problem is he's always one step ahead, and him having an LSx block doesn't help me much. I should add that we're in the process of rebuilding that motor for forced induction right now, so I expect he'll be moving into the low 11s soon. The point being I definitely won't be satisfied with 12s, at least not in the long-run. 11s probably not, 10s sure, 9s no question.

If y'all could give me links to see what all this Jim Fitz guy (or anyone else) has done to make his car as fast as it is, I'd appreciate it. Thanks for the comments so far. Keep 'em coming. :nice:

I've updated the original post with a few more details. I'll continue updating it as this thread evolves.

If you don't plan on using the 2V motor then the sky is the limit. There are tons of options out there to build a strong small block ford motor. 9's are respectable but it doesn't require that much power to get there as one might think. At a 3400lb raceweight, less than 700 RWHP can get you there, but you will obviously have to have a nice chassis/suspension/rearend setup. They all work together.

I would recommend spending some time reading over on forums such as turbomustangs.com and ls1tech.com in the racing and power adder tech sections. Maybe start reading some various mags as well. I have been involved with drag racing and building race cars since I was around 13 (I am 33 now) and I am still learning, but you seem to have the right attitude. Just read and ask as many questions as possible and don't be afraid to learn. Even once you get the car finished and it is technically capable of running 9's, you will have to learn to drive the car, and it might take you a month to shake the car down.....it might take a year. Practice makes perfect. Just set your goals and don't give up.

Here are just a few things you will need to satisfy NHRA requirements for a car going 9.99 or quicker - http://www.nhra.com/tech_specs/ETQuickRef.html
 
Possible Turbo Setup

My buddy came across a motor, @ a local shop, its basically a 306 with Ross pistons 11.1, ported canfield heads, with a .672 lift cam, the guy was asking 3200 without the intake with the fogger system, the motor came out of an 90 lx, the guy swears the motor ran 10.50 n/a, and 9.50 with a 150 shot.. what do you think?:shrug:

using this setup, how could I get the compression down with out buying new pistons! the motors gurantee! I'm getting the motor a 6al box, new centerforce clutch, a high flow fuel pump! it installed with tuning for 4200 bucks
 
All you need for a 9 sec. mustang
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My car currently run's mid-9's and I still drive it on the street, although it is no longer my daily driver. I spent a ton of money because my goals kept changing. The faster I went, the faster I wanted to go. That hasn't changed because now I'm trying to get into the 8's.

Basically this is what I am running:

MPH billet stroker shortblock with aluminum block - 4.6 stroked to a 302.
MPH race ported 2 valve heads, custom cams, oversized valves
MPH custom return style fuel system
Kenne Bell prototype 2.8H supercharger with 8 rib kit
Performance Automatic Super Comp C4 tranny with transbrake manual valve body
JW Performance 9 inch non-locking torque converter
Certified 10 point roll cage
Moser 33 spline axles, C-clip eliminators, and spool
AJE tubular k-member, a-arms, and coilovers
Tokico 5-way drag struts
Strange 10-way shocks
Steeda upper, lower control arms, and competition rear springs
Kooks stepped longtube headers and O/R X-pipe with dumped Dynomax Race Bullitts.
Kirkey seats, RSD, radio and CD delete, A/C and heater delete, front and rear bumper delete, air bag delete, battery relocation to trunk, removable steering wheel, fire surpression system
Cervini's Cobra R lift-off hood
Weld Draglites with Mickey Thompson skinnies and slicks
SCT tune by MPH with street and race tunes
93 octane on the street, C16 at the track

A 5 gallon fuel cell is going in this week and a Skinny Kid race wing next week. At that point, I will not drive it on the street anymore. The car weighs around 3200 pounds with me in it and is making around 750 rwhp.
 
My car currently run's mid-9's and I still drive it on the street, although it is no longer my daily driver. I spent a ton of money because my goals kept changing. The faster I went, the faster I wanted to go. That hasn't changed because now I'm trying to get into the 8's.

Basically this is what I am running:

MPH billet stroker shortblock - 4.6 stroked to a 302.
MPH race ported 2 valve heads and custom cams
MPH custom return style fuel system
Kenne Bell prototype 2.8H supercharger with 8 rib kit
Performance Automatic Super Comp C4 tranny with transbrake manual valve body
JW Performance 9 inch non-locking torque converter
Certified 10 point roll cage
Moser 33 spline axles, C-clip eliminators, and spool
AJE tubular k-member, a-arms, and coilovers
Tokico 5-way drag struts
Strange 10-way shocks
Steeda upper, lower control arms, and competition rear springs
:hail2:

Tell me more! :nice:
 
My car currently run's mid-9's and I still drive it on the street, although it is no longer my daily driver. I spent a ton of money because my goals kept changing. The faster I went, the faster I wanted to go. That hasn't changed because now I'm trying to get into the 8's.

Basically this is what I am running:

MPH billet stroker shortblock with aluminum block - 4.6 stroked to a 302.
MPH race ported 2 valve heads, custom cams, oversized valves
MPH custom return style fuel system
Kenne Bell prototype 2.8H supercharger with 8 rib kit
Performance Automatic Super Comp C4 tranny with transbrake manual valve body
JW Performance 9 inch non-locking torque converter
Certified 10 point roll cage
Moser 33 spline axles, C-clip eliminators, and spool
AJE tubular k-member, a-arms, and coilovers
Tokico 5-way drag struts
Strange 10-way shocks
Steeda upper, lower control arms, and competition rear springs
Kooks stepped longtube headers and O/R X-pipe with dumped Dynomax Race Bullitts.
Kirkey seats, RSD, radio and CD delete, A/C and heater delete, front and rear bumper delete, air bag delete, battery relocation to trunk, removable steering wheel, fire surpression system
Cervini's Cobra R lift-off hood
Weld Draglites with Mickey Thompson skinnies and slicks
SCT tune by MPH with street and race tunes
93 octane on the street, C16 at the track

A 5 gallon fuel cell is going in this week and a Skinny Kid race wing next week. At that point, I will not drive it on the street anymore. The car weighs around 3200 pounds with me in it and is making around 750 rwhp.

Jim is your cage moly or mild steel? I didn't see what rear gear ratio you were running?

Do you know what the car weighs without you in it?:D I will be doing some weight reduction in the near future, so I just want to get some ideas as to what other cars are weighing.
 
Jim is your cage moly or mild steel? I didn't see what rear gear ratio you were running?

Do you know what the car weighs without you in it?:D I will be doing some weight reduction in the near future, so I just want to get some ideas as to what other cars are weighing.
The cage is chromoly steel. The car weighs around 3000 without me, but is in the process of losing the stock fuel tank, etc. I recently changed from 4.10 to 3.55 gears.
 
My 2 valve runs 9.90's @ 140 with a 5 speed,A/C,stereo,power everything. Car weighs 3525#'s. It went 9.90's with 700rwhp. It just made 919rwhp all blower so we'll see if we can run some low 9's with it.

A 9 second daily driver is easily doable,but $15K won't even come close.