Question about downshifting with TR-3650

[homebrewer]

I've never had a problem downshifting at all, especially if you match the revs. I do find the shifter to be a bit notchy at times, but I've never had a problem getting into a lower gear.

I understand the reasoning behind downshifting, but are you using this just to slow down the car in a normal situation? I personally don't see the point in that at all. Yeah, it sounds cool, and it can be a bit easier at times..... but in the long run, a new set of pads (or pads and rotors for that matter) are still cheaper than a new clutch. Why put the extra stain on it? I know well all tend to ride these cars pretty hard, and I personally don't see the point in adding stress to the clutch. But that's just me.... To each his own, right?

 

[Hoboattacker]

I plan to upgrade the clutch so if it goes out it's just a "forced upgrade"

 

[MBDiagMan]

Synchronizers cannot do the job by themselves and can wear out (paper linings, sort of like clutches).

Huh?

 

[metroplex]

Huh?

So the synchros can't wear out? I read that the paper lined synchros require an ATF lube instead of a gear oil lube and everything I've read indicates the synchros allow the collar and gear to synchronize speeds before the splines/teeth engage. Since the synchronizing relies on frictional contact, and it uses paper linings (from what Tremec has stated), I put 2 and 2 together and assumed they would wear out eventually or with abuse or operator error.

I know that my TR-3650 is a PITA to downshift if I don't rev-match or double-clutch even at low (sub-20 mph) speeds downshifting from 3rd gear to 2nd gear coming to a stop with the clutch fully out. I let someone else drive my Stang (40+ years experience with driving manuals and automatics) and he said he experienced the same thing that he couldn't downshift into 2nd gear from 3rd gear while moving at 15-25 mph. Since he didn't want to break anything, he stopped trying to force the shifter. I wanted to eliminate operator error before assuming the gearbox is FUBAR'd. FWIW this was a Tuesday car, but the transmissions are hencho en Mexico and I'd have to pull the tag numbers to find out what day of the week it was made. The gearbox has less than 50 miles on it and has the factory fill lube (Mercon ATF? Mobil 1 ATF? who knows...)

And in case I forgot to mention it - this gearbox is also a PITA to downshift in general (not just a 3-2). Trying to downshift from 2nd to 1st coming to a stop (5-10 mph) is also nearly impossible at times. I really have to muscle the shifter to get it into gear and heard grinding noises during one particular 3-2. I made damn sure the clutch was fully out (pedal was fully depressed) before ever touching the shifter.

I will try rev-matching or double-clutching when the weather gets better and see if it helps.

 

[welchy]

You should not have to rev match or double clutch to downshift. I can downshift my car all the way through 1st gear without any problems. There is something wrong with your car. Take it to your dealer and have them take a look at it.

 

[Fourth Horseman]

Mine can be a little fussy at times, but it's never required strong-arming to get it into gear when down-shifting. I've taken to rev matching just so it doesn't clunk as much, and I figure it's got to be easier on the trans and the entire drive line.

 

[official_style]

i wish the gas and brake pedal were like 1" closer togehter tho, would be much better for heel-toe downshifting then.

 

[281Ponies]

Rev-Matching is pretty basic. No need to rev the engine and guess what the rpm should be. If you are coming out of 4th down to 3rd just level the car off under a load using the gas pedal, put slight pressure on the shifter and shift as you clutch. When you get into 3rd gear you are rev-matched when done with a smooth flowing motion.