Mallory Unilite module

My module in my distributor went out and i've order another but i have no idea what caused it to go bad. I was driving down the road and th car just shut off. I trouble shooted it according to Mallorys web site and the module was reading 1.25V when i place a credit card between the optical lense. If you have an idea of what could have caused this please sahre. Thanks
 
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junk the distributor and get an msd or one without points... Those dumb modules go bad all the time. I had one in my 69 and it went bad everytime there was a major weather change (happens quite a bit in TX)... After $175 in modules, I had enough sense to get rid of the darn thing. They are known for going bad and at $85 a pop... its cheaper to get a MSD
 
I REALLY which i could get another distributor but its the only one that will fit with my blower. The blower run right over the distributor and Mallory is the only one that make a crab style cap that will fit. Unless anyone else knows of one out there.
 
msd makes a small cap dist


small cap is different than the crab cap.

on that note, MSD used to make a crab cap style dizzy and they may still, it just might not be listed in the catalog.

i've got a mallory conversion in my stock dizzy as well. i had a problem with modules popping when i first got the system installed but i figured out it was where i had it grounded that was the causing the problem. also make sure you don't use a ballast resistor in conjunction with the stock resistance wire, that can cause problems too. currently i have the unilite hooked up staright throught teh stock resistance wire and no external ballast resistor and it's grounded to to the coil strap which is mounted on the cylinder head.

if your module was made back in the early 90's it's quite likely you have one from a bad batch. i used to work at super shops and we had a major problem with bad modules for a while. the new ones available now should be much better, also the accel modules are the same as the mallory units but not as expensive (possibly not as high quality but i don't know that for sure), generally they are about half the cost of the mallory module so that may be something to consider as well.

oh nad make sure you use plenty of the white silicone stuff they include with modules when you install it, it's a heat insulator and if you don't use enough of the stuff you'll pop the module quick. you can also use regular silicone dielectric grease but the white stuff works better
 
small cap is different than the crab cap.

oh nad make sure you use plenty of the white silicone stuff they include with modules when you install it, it's a heat insulator and if you don't use enough of the stuff you'll pop the module quick. you can also use regular silicone dielectric grease but the white stuff works better

I was told mine failed from heat.

BE SURE TO USE THAT INSULATOR STUFF!!!

I did with my new and have not a had a problem since.
 
some causes

My module in my distributor went out and i've order another but i have no idea what caused it to go bad. I was driving down the road and th car just shut off. I trouble shooted it according to Mallorys web site and the module was reading 1.25V when i place a credit card between the optical lense. If you have an idea of what could have caused this please sahre. Thanks

1- You can't have the distributor plugged in when you charge the battery,
2- You can't jump start (with dist plugged in),
3-Be careful putting cap on. Keep cap even and do each clip. I "rocked" mine from side to side (one side is easier to clip) and toasted a cap and module,
4- The add on power filter will cut module failure way down,

Believe it or not, if you do #1-3, Mallory's do perform well. I have another car with an MSD and honestly, it is not as temperamental as this Mallory.
 
I read on the vintage-mustang forums ,that you can use this and its cheaper

http://store.summitracing.com/partd...925143+4294839065+4294845520+115&autoview=sku

:D

Funny thing is thats a unilite module. Accell and Mallory are all owned by Mr Gasket.


I ran a Mallory MBI for over 250k in mileage. I started going through modules on a semi annual basis. I started looking into other ignition systems, and I talk to many people. So old fart "Old farts racing team" told me to check my ignition primary wires. He said there might be a slight short causing voltage problems. Truth be told there were 3 places where the were shorts. Just enough when the wire were warm from use they would barely short. one was the factory plug in the firewall. I had replaced the pink resistor wire some time back but never drilled out the plug to make it one wire. The other spots were from the resistor to distributer, and from the resistor to coil. That wire was fried inside. It would test good until it was loaded for about 30 minutes then it would jump in resistance. When I told him about them all he said its normal on "hot" ignition systems for the wire to fatigue over time, and the wires just fail.

I replace the wires, installed a power filter and I am going over 2 years 40 k in miles with no hickups. Oh and thats over 600k on a comp 9000 distributer. I won't complain about mallory.
 
requires as close to 100% metal to metal contact with the base plate as possible. The heat sink compound is supplied so that you can fill in the little nicks and scratches that keep the module from making 100% contact. Metal to metal contact transfers heat quicker than the thermal compound does. You are trying to transfer heat out of the module not insulate it. If the transistors inside the module overheat they will breakdown (and you've got a heat related module failure).
Make sure your base plate in the distributor, and the bottom of the module are perfectly clean. Then use a thin (almost transparent) coat of heat sink compound on both the module and the breaker plate. Using any more than this will decrease thermal transfer efficiency.
Do not use dielectric grease as a thermal transfer compound.

ummm, do you have a unilite? i can tell you from experience that doing what you suggest will result in a failed module in a short amount of time!!!! i've had mine since about 1990 and the current module on the car has been in use for at least 10 years if not more and it has about 3/4 of the included tube of the white diaelectric compound on it and the baseplate.
 
Yep, for years. I've not had one fail yet. I've also done heat test studies for a manufacture on different HEI systems. I've also done extensive work with large power transistors (like 300A and up) utilizing heat sink compound.
I'd suggest you review the directions from the company providing the heat sink compound.

i only use the stuff that comes with the unilite modules and those directions say to apply it liberally. i have used the diaelectric silicone in a pinch before with no ill effects also applied liberally
 
I don't remember seeing anything in the instructions I have read about "liberal". Which made me go back to see if I missed something.

http://go.mrgasket.com/pdf/561_562_563.pdf
Doesn't mention it.

This one (E-Spark) discusses in step 9 to use a thin coat, as does the instructions for the reluctor style 605.

http://go.mrgasket.com/pdf/61002M.pdf

Any chance you might have a set of instructions showing to use a "liberal amount" handy you could post, or point to?
Just because I can't find it, doesn't mean they didn't write it! :shrug:

Thanks,


i'll check, i tink i still have the original package from when i installed the kit in 90 or 91 somewhere, i'll have to check in the garage
 
So anyone know for sure if i should use a lot of the grease it comes with ot just a little? My wiring harness is brand new (EZ-wiring) so i dont think or know if it has a resistor wire like the factory harness. Should i use a resistor ? Thanks for the link to the Accel module, i ordered than one instead of the mallory unit, saves me $50!
 
So anyone know for sure if i should use a lot of the grease it comes with ot just a little? My wiring harness is brand new (EZ-wiring) so i dont think or know if it has a resistor wire like the factory harness. Should i use a resistor ? Thanks for the link to the Accel module, i ordered than one instead of the mallory unit, saves me $50!


the module should have instructions, just go by what they say. i haven't been able to find mine and it's possible they changed them since i installed mine too. so the safe way would be to use their recommendations.