Building a 347
- Thread starter Chris95gt50
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thumper460
Founding Member
Have a shop "overthere" do the block work!! everything is the same as a 5.0 , with the exception of notching the block for the 5.4 rods!! I can show you how if the shop wants too much money to do it!! Crank and rods and pistons are the same tech as any engine.. no secrets yet... have the shop mic the crankshaft to insure it falls within stock specs.. rod big end also.. still Cake!! Rings... usually most kits supply "File to Fit " rings... OH OH getting scarry now.. NOPE!! standard procedure for the engine builder, and even better than the stock ring set.. you can add clearance for your ..NOS?? S/C ?? Turbo... ect!! SOOOooo... still no secrets!! The balance needs to be 28* so you will need a 28 oz flywheel and balancer.. sone kits can add that for a buck or two..
Now the camshaft.. the injecters.. the rest of the stuff... just hang on for the ride on the net... my suggestion is see what the rest of the 347s are running and deal with them!! Get a buddy in Pearl and use the APO address and save a lot of $$ and time!! just a thought on that!! LOL
Have fun!!
Just me...................................
Thumper
Now the camshaft.. the injecters.. the rest of the stuff... just hang on for the ride on the net... my suggestion is see what the rest of the 347s are running and deal with them!! Get a buddy in Pearl and use the APO address and save a lot of $$ and time!! just a thought on that!! LOL
Have fun!!
Just me...................................
Thumper
Either a 331 or 347 will make great power for what you are looking at.
A 351 block weighs around 30lbs more or so, but the cubic inch can give you a 4hp difference - good for a 40lb block difference.
The 351 fitting will cost you more to get some things to work right. You can not use as many stock parts. Yes a stroked 351 will demolish a stroked 302 and do it easier.
I wouldn't waste my money and put a 347 in a stock block. Talk about no room to grow...
A 351 block weighs around 30lbs more or so, but the cubic inch can give you a 4hp difference - good for a 40lb block difference.
The 351 fitting will cost you more to get some things to work right. You can not use as many stock parts. Yes a stroked 351 will demolish a stroked 302 and do it easier.
I wouldn't waste my money and put a 347 in a stock block. Talk about no room to grow...
thumper460
Founding Member
OHHHhhh.... the TEST!! I have a : 347 ( 5.0) //393 ( 351W ) and a 544 ( 460 ) and a 306 with a boat load of NOS... Do I qualify?? Huh HUH ?? LOL
Just thought I would post...
You do not have to have a different stroke in your engine to know what they are about. I have drove them, ridden in them, and I am best friends with buddies who have them...
But you have to have them under your hood to be an expert...
I have some stories to tell about that...I have met some real ignorant people with strokers...
I need a 3.4" stroke crank instead of my 3.0" stroke crank to be an expert...
You do not have to have a different stroke in your engine to know what they are about. I have drove them, ridden in them, and I am best friends with buddies who have them...
But you have to have them under your hood to be an expert...
I have some stories to tell about that...I have met some real ignorant people with strokers...
I need a 3.4" stroke crank instead of my 3.0" stroke crank to be an expert...
Yobi1Kanobi
Member
- Apr 9, 2003
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BlackVert
15 Year Member
410 stroker here, does that count?
no personal info on turbo setups here. i actually bought one (the first sold by mike arndt aka oinkaodeoink) and had the hot side ready to put together, but then we sold our house and i lost my garage.
i wouldn't say "way" faster, but it might rotate a little faster because the pistons are not moving quite as far, which means they don't have to move quite as fast up and down, so there is less rotational inertia to fight against. it is probably not enough to offset the difference in power from the extra cubes you get from a 347
if you really want fast rpms and are worried about rotational inertia, you might think about going with a 302 and boost the hell out of it. the 302 has a stroke of 3.0", .4" shorter than the 3.4" stroke of a 347, so the pistons don't have to move nearly as fast per rpm because they are moving .8" less than 347 pistons move per rotation. that is a 12% difference in how far they have to go each revolution. but then you need to worry about the valve train being able to keep up, ...
no personal info on turbo setups here. i actually bought one (the first sold by mike arndt aka oinkaodeoink) and had the hot side ready to put together, but then we sold our house and i lost my garage.
i wouldn't say "way" faster, but it might rotate a little faster because the pistons are not moving quite as far, which means they don't have to move quite as fast up and down, so there is less rotational inertia to fight against. it is probably not enough to offset the difference in power from the extra cubes you get from a 347
if you really want fast rpms and are worried about rotational inertia, you might think about going with a 302 and boost the hell out of it. the 302 has a stroke of 3.0", .4" shorter than the 3.4" stroke of a 347, so the pistons don't have to move nearly as fast per rpm because they are moving .8" less than 347 pistons move per rotation. that is a 12% difference in how far they have to go each revolution. but then you need to worry about the valve train being able to keep up, ...
To beat SRT4's I'd say you need a combo that will trap at least 115-118mph, as that is what most run with the mopar stage 3 kit that I have seen at my local track. To do this, and for it to be a daily driver I'd opt for the 347. the added cubes will provide more TQ and allow you to run slightly less agressive parts than a 331 would to make the same power which is key to a daily driven setup.
There is only one reason I would go with a 331, and that is if it's going to be a turbo'd setup with a turbo running a T4 flange. As the cubes go up the amount of "displacement" does as well in regards to the amount of gases flowing out of the exhaust. the T4 flange can experience significant back pressures in the hot side of the piping between the combustion chamber and the turbo which is NOT good. Basically what I'm trying to say is that since turbo's have a specific efficiency range, trying to get the turbo in its efficiency range and running big cubes can cause issues with back pressures with a T4 flanged turbo.
There is only one reason I would go with a 331, and that is if it's going to be a turbo'd setup with a turbo running a T4 flange. As the cubes go up the amount of "displacement" does as well in regards to the amount of gases flowing out of the exhaust. the T4 flange can experience significant back pressures in the hot side of the piping between the combustion chamber and the turbo which is NOT good. Basically what I'm trying to say is that since turbo's have a specific efficiency range, trying to get the turbo in its efficiency range and running big cubes can cause issues with back pressures with a T4 flanged turbo.
stprorolla49
Active Member
I'm in the process of building a 347 right now as well. Searched the web backwards and forwards, best deal I could find was CNC Motorsports. They have Scat kits + Eagle kits. You can get them balanced with Sfi flywheel or flexplates and Pro Products Balancer.
The kit I ordered is $1100 shipped, I got off ebay, but you can order direct from their web site:
http://www.cnc-motorsports.com/product.asp?ProdID=7023&CtgID=9051
They have a Scat fully forged also:
http://www.cnc-motorsports.com/product.asp?ProdID=16291&CtgID=9460
They have tons of other good deals. Also found a jig tool (off ebay-TMD) for doing block notching yourself-pretty cool:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Ford...hZitem180066309949QQihZ008QQitemZ180066309949
TMD also has an awesome deal for ARP studs+girdle and the girdle looks tough.
The kit I ordered is $1100 shipped, I got off ebay, but you can order direct from their web site:
http://www.cnc-motorsports.com/product.asp?ProdID=7023&CtgID=9051
They have a Scat fully forged also:
http://www.cnc-motorsports.com/product.asp?ProdID=16291&CtgID=9460
They have tons of other good deals. Also found a jig tool (off ebay-TMD) for doing block notching yourself-pretty cool:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Ford...hZitem180066309949QQihZ008QQitemZ180066309949
TMD also has an awesome deal for ARP studs+girdle and the girdle looks tough.
