Where to buy mustang turbo? and how much different is the install?
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A turbo install can be quite complicated if you never installed
one before.All my experience with turbo's is from Subaru's since
I work on them five days a week.I also never installed a turbo set up
on a mustang but,I have been through trial and error installing turbo set up's.
Ask yourself what you really want out of the car? Is your car a
street car or track only car? If your car is a street car I would go the
KB or Procharger route just my opnion though.You should talk to these guys
because they have alot of knowledge dealing with turbocharged mustangs.
www.modularpowerhouse.com
www.turbomustangs.com
one before.All my experience with turbo's is from Subaru's since
I work on them five days a week.I also never installed a turbo set up
on a mustang but,I have been through trial and error installing turbo set up's.
Ask yourself what you really want out of the car? Is your car a
street car or track only car? If your car is a street car I would go the
KB or Procharger route just my opnion though.You should talk to these guys
because they have alot of knowledge dealing with turbocharged mustangs.
www.modularpowerhouse.com
www.turbomustangs.com
the98stang
Active Member
You have to fab up most turbo setups on our Mustangs. Otherwise you'll be spending bucks. Either way, your going to spend a lot of time on the install.
04YELLOWGT
Active Member
Turbo kits for mustangs can cost 6k+. A guy I know told me he would have done a custom one for me for $3,500. This was after the Vortech was already on.
If you dont know anyone that can make a custom one for you and if you cant or dont want to do one yourself, I would go with a supercharger. Id do KB if you want a fun street car or a Centri, like a Vortech, if you want a fun street car but want to run some good times at the track. Im not saying KBs dont run well at the track but I think centris run better.
If you dont know anyone that can make a custom one for you and if you cant or dont want to do one yourself, I would go with a supercharger. Id do KB if you want a fun street car or a Centri, like a Vortech, if you want a fun street car but want to run some good times at the track. Im not saying KBs dont run well at the track but I think centris run better.
hotmustang331
Active Member
Basically, anyway you go...your going to spend more than on the adverage S/C kit.
I have about $6000 in parts in mine...but thats including clutch, flywheel, $500 boost controler, fuel gauge, ect. I mean you CAN go cheap....but its not going to be a good setup...if your spending this much cash, please DONT go with cheap parts.
I bought about the best of the best...but I shopped smart. EBAY!
But I highly recommend BUYING a premade kit....its pretty tough to make one from scratch. Honestly, I probably couldnt do it alone...well lets just say it probably wouldnt look good haha. My dad is an AMAZING fabricator, and can make the piping look great.
I have about $6000 in parts in mine...but thats including clutch, flywheel, $500 boost controler, fuel gauge, ect. I mean you CAN go cheap....but its not going to be a good setup...if your spending this much cash, please DONT go with cheap parts.
I bought about the best of the best...but I shopped smart. EBAY!
But I highly recommend BUYING a premade kit....its pretty tough to make one from scratch. Honestly, I probably couldnt do it alone...well lets just say it probably wouldnt look good haha. My dad is an AMAZING fabricator, and can make the piping look great.
turbo setups are quite intricate. a kit will run anywhere from 4-6k depending on what you get, and thats before you even think about what you still need to run said kit. Fuel system will need to be beefed up, youll need tuning time. Your tranny wont last long. Your suspension wont be able to keep that power to the ground.
Ive done many turbo installs on DSM's, Evo's, Subies and SRT4's. I had to have a guy come help me when i did my first swap, even with everything laid out i still really had no idea what i was looking at. years later i can do a swap on a DSM with my eyes closed, and most other cars pretty quick, but i still remember the time it was all so vague, and a turbo was just another cluster**** of metal. That being said, its easy to get in over your head and want to go turbo with the whole turbo craze. though i still wouldnt think of fabbing up my own setup unless i had a full shop at my disposal, and even then id still know somethings gonna **** up along the way.
And Yes, turbos make more power at less boost levels because they move more air. Aside from popular belief, more PSI does not equal more power. its all about the airflow (Lbs/Min) at a given PSI. Airflow makes the power, PSI is the force at which the turbo exerts to make that airflow. I always laughed at riceboys coming up to my eclipse "Hey Brah, how much PSI you running dawg?" and i would just laugh and say "Its making 45 pounds per minute on a 270 degree thrust bearing PTE 60trim" and theyd be like "oh well our cousins brothers nephews uncles former roomate has one running 60psi and makes 2300hp on his civic and wants to run!" aah the memories..........
like someone said, its best to realistically find your goals and go for them, not overshoot them entirely. For most, a vortech/procharger with the proper support will be enough. if its not, you can dig into the motor and do headwork and upp the boost and that will be enough. if that still isnt enough, thats when you either contemplate going roots/twin screw like a whipple or KB, or going to turbo.
Ive done many turbo installs on DSM's, Evo's, Subies and SRT4's. I had to have a guy come help me when i did my first swap, even with everything laid out i still really had no idea what i was looking at. years later i can do a swap on a DSM with my eyes closed, and most other cars pretty quick, but i still remember the time it was all so vague, and a turbo was just another cluster**** of metal. That being said, its easy to get in over your head and want to go turbo with the whole turbo craze. though i still wouldnt think of fabbing up my own setup unless i had a full shop at my disposal, and even then id still know somethings gonna **** up along the way.
And Yes, turbos make more power at less boost levels because they move more air. Aside from popular belief, more PSI does not equal more power. its all about the airflow (Lbs/Min) at a given PSI. Airflow makes the power, PSI is the force at which the turbo exerts to make that airflow. I always laughed at riceboys coming up to my eclipse "Hey Brah, how much PSI you running dawg?" and i would just laugh and say "Its making 45 pounds per minute on a 270 degree thrust bearing PTE 60trim" and theyd be like "oh well our cousins brothers nephews uncles former roomate has one running 60psi and makes 2300hp on his civic and wants to run!" aah the memories..........
like someone said, its best to realistically find your goals and go for them, not overshoot them entirely. For most, a vortech/procharger with the proper support will be enough. if its not, you can dig into the motor and do headwork and upp the boost and that will be enough. if that still isnt enough, thats when you either contemplate going roots/twin screw like a whipple or KB, or going to turbo.
Rickey_Bobby
New Member
www.turbochargedpower.com
This guy is great. He is the owner, designer, and sales rep, so there is NO BS to deal with and he can answer all your questions.
The big$$ about turbo kits coms from the supporting mods.
You need a tube k member, and good fuel system, and a programable chip. Those parts alone are an easy $2K. but mots people end up doing those anyways, so in reality, a turbo kit is VERY econimical as you are getting A LOT!
After installing my k member ($700) I made my own turbo kit. (Check my sig) I kept my stock manifolds and made the piping. Total cost was $1,500. If you live in west/central FL I would be happy to show you the setup and give you a quote to make one. So far I have done 4 cars locally and you are welcom to talk to those guys about my work.
If your looking just to buy a kit, go to the above link. The install is NOT hard at all. Just time consuming. The hardest part is dropping the gas tank to put in a new fuel pump. But you have to do that with any forced induction mod.
If you have any other questions about running a turbo feel free to ask. I'll give you both the pro's and con's straight up. Turbo's arn't for everyone... but they sure are nice.
-Steve
Rickey_Bobby
New Member
Turbo's are far more simple than a supercharger. There is just more piping to look at. When you look at a supercharger, you don't see all the gears, you see a case.
My kit was made in my back yard. I held the engine up with an oak tree
Fuel upgrades are included in the kits from www.turbochargedpower.com
Turbos don't make more power because they move more air. The CFM is determined by the compressor size. The reason for their better performance is this:
1. No parasitic loss of HP
2. Their ability to make boost is not RPM dependant. On superchargers you must limit you pully size so you don't over boost at redline. On centuri chargers, max boost= redline. On some roots chargers, you actually loose boost (charger too small)
But on a turbo, the boost is dependant of airflow through the motor. This way, you can make full boost of 10 psi at say 3,000RPM, and run 10 psi all the way to redline. Superchargers CAN'T do that. That's why turbo's make so much torque.
All this being said, I agree a vortech is the most anyone needs. With a 3.25" pulley $75, and a custom dyno tune $400, you can easily make ~400RWHP and ~375RWTQ on a STOCK stang (with pi heads).
That same car, with a turbo, making 400RWHP, would be making 500RWTQ though...
And that torque makes for a REALLY fun car to drive. You don't have to wind it up to go fast.
-Steve
hotmustang331
Active Member
^$1500 in parts?
I come up with prices is as follows just to get it running and tuned.
Turbo W/ manual boost controler = $400
Tail waste gate= $200
V band flanges = $200+
Hot side piping= $100
Cold side piping = $100
50MM BOV= $200
Intercooler = $400
SCT-BA2400 MAF= $250
FRPP 42# injectors= $200
Ford GT fuel pump= $90
Various flanges and SS bolts= $100
Silicon hose and couplings= $60
Stainless T bolt clamps= $60
=$2360
Now these figures are VERY low...and in reality you would spend ALOT more to get the thing going. Realisticly around $3000 at minimum just to be able to get it tuned. Now if your talking JUST the piping and turbo and whatnot to hook everything up, I can see $1500.
But it wont be ready for the dyno, unless you go SUPER cheap with everything...and buy used parts and whatnot.
Not knocking you in ANY way, just wondering how you came out so cheap??? And you have any pics?
I come up with prices is as follows just to get it running and tuned.
Turbo W/ manual boost controler = $400
Tail waste gate= $200
V band flanges = $200+
Hot side piping= $100
Cold side piping = $100
50MM BOV= $200
Intercooler = $400
SCT-BA2400 MAF= $250
FRPP 42# injectors= $200
Ford GT fuel pump= $90
Various flanges and SS bolts= $100
Silicon hose and couplings= $60
Stainless T bolt clamps= $60
=$2360
Now these figures are VERY low...and in reality you would spend ALOT more to get the thing going. Realisticly around $3000 at minimum just to be able to get it tuned. Now if your talking JUST the piping and turbo and whatnot to hook everything up, I can see $1500.
But it wont be ready for the dyno, unless you go SUPER cheap with everything...and buy used parts and whatnot.
Not knocking you in ANY way, just wondering how you came out so cheap??? And you have any pics?
Rickey_Bobby
New Member
^$1500 in parts?
I come up with prices is as follows just to get it running and tuned.
Turbo W/ manual boost controler = $400
Tail waste gate= $200
V band flanges = $200+
Hot side piping= $100
Cold side piping = $100
50MM BOV= $200
Intercooler = $400
SCT-BA2400 MAF= $250
FRPP 42# injectors= $200
Ford GT fuel pump= $90
Various flanges and SS bolts= $100
Silicon hose and couplings= $60
Stainless T bolt clamps= $60
=$2360
Now these figures are VERY low...and in reality you would spend ALOT more to get the thing going. Realisticly around $3000 at minimum just to be able to get it tuned. Now if your talking JUST the piping and turbo and whatnot to hook everything up, I can see $1500.
But it wont be ready for the dyno, unless you go SUPER cheap with everything...and buy used parts and whatnot.
Not knocking you in ANY way, just wondering how you came out so cheap??? And you have any pics?
All parts are new w/ 1 year no questions asked warr.
Turbo= $500 (Dont need boost controller, you control boost with wastegate spring tension)
WG= $250
intercooler= $300
BOV= $50 (twin bosch or twin DSM)
All piping=$150 (local muffler shop for bends. $5 a bend+materials)
Silicone=$50
T-bolts=$50
2 V bands=$100
Misc crap=$50
All my fuel mods were already in place.
There is no NEED for a bigger MAF unless you plan on making over 450RWHP. The #'s in my sig are on a stock MAF. 90mm lightning MAF's sell all day long on ebay for 50-100 bucks. Thats where I got mine.
TOTAL $$ spent would probably be $2500-$2700 with fuel and intake mods.
No pics installed right now. The whole kit is off so I can make jigs for the piping and whatnot so I no longer need to have a car in front of me to build a kit. I'll get it mocked up on one of the motors I have and send a pic. I hope to be able to put these together and start selling them as the 3 very brave people that let me put it on their cars gave me great feedback on what they liked and didnt like and hopefully this second version will be the best yet.
Some things they said:
don't want to have to get a slim line fan
dont want to have to get an aftermarket K member (not gunna happen, only 2" ground clearance on stock suspension)
don't want to have to deal with difficult header install (SOLVED! kit bolts to stock manifolds)
more options on turbo (curently I only offer the T-70, working with turbonetics to get them to cut me a similar deal on their t-62, t-66, t-72, and t-76.
one guy wanted an air-water intercooler (not gunna happen)
more options on BOV (again, working w/ turbonetics to get a deal on their stuff. I save $200 by using the twin bosch/dsm valves. They also respond faster than large valves, so I may not switch at all)
Kit also allows for draw through style maf in fender similar to a vortech. Works with the 4" vortech power pipe as well, so the end user already has proven aftermarket upgrade options available.
-steve
CTGrey02
Founding Member
I've installed an HP Twin turbo setup on a 2003 GT. The power is there, but it's not worth the hassle. Instructions sucked (they were for the old setup), the initial cost of the kit was just that, initial. The tuning sucked, the MAF was useless and needed to be changed out for a SCT MAF. And lastly, the turbo's aren't up high enough for proper oil drainage causing the kit to push smoke out the rear pipes as you driving it. Your not just installing a turbo kit with this setup either. The turbo kit requires the use of an aftermarket K-Member, which requires modification, and front coil overs which are noisey as all hell. Your suspension will need to be completely resetup after install. The kit I believe was 6500 or so.. was over a year ago since we installed it. Cost of supporting mods and odds and ends to get it installed probably added up to another 2000 dollars. The kit pretty much pushes the limits of what the stock driveline should have to support too, so expect to get a built block and tranny down the line. I.E.. another 10K if done right.
for some people making a kit is a possability. for others like myself its not. bending the pipe, designing the layout, making sure you dont blow something up with a slight mistake... kinda daunting.... i can install anything you throw at me... but give me some guidelines and precut pieces and i'll get it perfect. small price for peace of mind.
This is the route i am going once i finish my front suspension. www.hellionpowersystems.com
Torinalth
This is the route i am going once i finish my front suspension. www.hellionpowersystems.com
Torinalth
hotmustang331
Active Member
Gotcha now. Im running a blow through setup and the lightning maf will only work with a MAF X...I thought you were setup the same. But being draw through, your MAF will support more power than an equal setup with blow through. Also, we bought pre mandrel bent U and J bends....and cut them to fit, so we could keep smooth mandrel bends. I didnt want any crimped bends in the pipe...although im sure some muffler shops have mandrel bends.
Ill get some pics up when everything is done...and no slim line fan here either
And it took us a while, but we built the headers in such a way that both go on without any jacking up of the engine, or unbolting of the K member. The tranny should also come out with them on. But it was a major pain....heck, we even kept the EGR lol. But the headers drove up the price. $400ish for the inital headers...they wouldnt seal, so we used them as "mock up" headers and I bought $600 worth of T-304 SS tubular bends, with the flanges and ect. PRICY!Similar threads
