Check out this CAI I made....

[ozanracing]

I had the filter mounted directly to the vortech 73mm maf, bu I beleave it may have been causing turbulance, and an incorrect sample. So I fabbed up this setup. The filter is compleatly in the fender, and where the turn signal was I made a duct and scoop that channels air right to the filter "ram air" style. The silver tape is heat insulation good up to 2000* (!). That's the nitrous nozle near the end.
Total cost for the "elbow" ($15.99) Plus it's 3"ID. So no size restriction.
Just thought I'd show it off.

 

[TomCat]

Looks good! I routed mine down to sit where the air deflector used to be. Ricer style

 

[seijirou]

That's the nitrous nozle near the end.

I hope you're spraying wet.

 

[ozanracing]

I hope you're spraying wet.

No; dry...

 

[seijirou]

No; dry...

You might want to consider spraying before the MAF meter. It uses heated elements that are cooled by the incoming airflow. The more air the comes in, the element temps drop, resistance drops, so voltage across the element goes up. Reading this voltage is basically how the computer knows how much air is entering the engine, so it knows how much fuel to add.

Because nitrous sprays cold, it does a great job cooling down those elements, so the computer will add fuel. If you spray after the MAF meter, there's basically no way for the computer to quickly know to add fuel. It might pick it up from the air temp. sensor and the o2's. But that's a slow response and dangerous.

 

[SoCal89GT]

You might want to consider spraying before the MAF meter. It uses heated elements that are cooled by the incoming airflow. The more air the comes in, the element temps drop, resistance drops, so voltage across the element goes up. Reading this voltage is basically how the computer knows how much air is entering the engine, so it knows how much fuel to add.

Because nitrous sprays cold, it does a great job cooling down those elements, so the computer will add fuel. If you spray after the MAF meter, there's basically no way for the computer to quickly know to add fuel. It might pick it up from the air temp. sensor and the o2's. But that's a slow response and dangerous.

I agree 100%, that is a good way to make bad things happen in a hurry. You will run super lean if you are post-maf with a dry shot...

 

[chefster]

lets see the ram air scoop

 

[ozanracing]

It's a zex kit with the fuel control box "thing". That's the recomended place for the nozzle. After the MAF.
I'll take some pics next time I go back to my shop of the "ram air" deal.

 

[DMAN302]

Your maf might not enjoy that significant bend right before it...could cause false readings. Also I would have to agree with not spraying before the MAF.

 

[ozanracing]

Here's the BBK kit: $160+ shipping. Seems like the same design, no?
My theory is the filter mounted directly to the maf will create trubulance. So adding the pipe before it will "unify the air" before it hits the sensor.

 

[DMAN302]

that style in general can wreak havoc on some aftermarket MAFs...the air flow is disturbed by the bend and the result is incorrect A/F readings.

 

[ozanracing]

 

[ozanracing]

that style in general can wreak havoc on some aftermarket MAFs...the air flow is disturbed by the bend and the result is incorrect A/F readings.

Well I'll find out if it helps or hurts. It's a vortech maf, with stock electronics...
Now all I need to make is a "heat shield"

 

[Blown95Cobra]

Looks good I think your next mod should be cleaning the engine bay

 

[89streetbeast]

most of the dry kits ive seen, the tb and intake tube were drilled at the edge of the tb inlet. imo if you do it before the maf that cold nos spraying on the sensor element could mess your settings up.

 

[seijirou]

Aslong as you have something (the zex 'thing' ) to immediately increase the fuel volume when the nitrous comes on then you're fine.

A purely dry kit, that sprays nitrous and nothing else, needs to come before the MAF. That cold NOS spraying on the elements is -exactly- what you want to get the fuel that you need.

If you have problems with the air not going across that MAF meter right, you can try "clocking" the MAF to help. Another thing that helps is putting a screen before the MAF to straighten out the airflow. The stock meter had a screen for this very purpose.

 

[JimBowy]

clean the engine bay! how about matching color spark plug wires?

 

[ozanracing]

Haha the plug wires will be one color...The intake and valve covers arn't even bolted on right now. I'm installing my ISKY adj. guideplates...Plus I got new injectors (30lb/hr) coming to me by tuesday so I'll be putting them on also. Ya, I do want to clean things...But I'm feeling kinda uncomfortable with spaying water/degreaser all over things.... Should have cleaned things up when I pulled the motor out..

 

[ozanracing]

There we go. Helps keep the heat out. I ordered a C&L trueflow tube also. I did'nt like the stock one's inside ridges.