leather seats

[entdoc]

I bought the seats below for my 67 fastback restomod project off of EBAY 399.00 for 2 all leather with sliders. The quaility was much better than I anticipated and fit very well in the 67. delivered in 4 days. I thought it might help when picking out a modern seat for your mustangs.

 

[CarFreakGT]

Very nice, ent. Who was the seller? Do they have an ebay store? That's right along the lines of what I anticipate I'll be looking for when I get around to the interior. Thanks!

EDIT: By the way, have you had a chance to take a ride since installing them? How are they for comfort and support?

 

[Markus]

Hello entdoc,

do you have pictures with the seat installed?
How ist the sitting high? I´m searching a pair of
seats too for my 67 fastback.

thanks

Markus

 

[entdoc]

I will try to get a pic of it sitting in place. If I were doing it over I would definitly lower the seat pan by 1-2 inches because that would give you so much more leeway in seat choice. As they are these seats sit maybe a little higher than I would prefer but not too bad,of course I am 5-8. I have the Proforms in the 66 and they sit about the same height as these in the 67,but these are a much better buy.

 

[1965stangcoupe]

I am interested in the seats you have! Would they fit in a 65 (width) I am 6'2" so im sure ill have to shorten the pans no matter what.

Are these the same... they look very similar and you can get the red stiching if you like it... these are $479. thanks!!

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/New-...9QQihZ007QQcategoryZ33701QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

heres another link to some... who was your seller? id reallly like to know!

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/PAIR...7QQihZ020QQcategoryZ33701QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

 

[XXBULLETSXX]

Great looking seat, I've been scared to order seats from ebay but glad to hear you had a good experience. I too would like to know who the seller was.

I am interested in the seats you have! Would they fit in a 65 (width) I am 6'2" so im sure ill have to shorten the pans no matter what.

Not as big of a pain as you would think. I did it, about a weekend job if you get interupted every 5 minutes like I do. I'll make one suggestion that I wish I would have done better, move the pan back a few inches as well. I'm 6'3" and I moved the pan back about 2" but I also did the T5 swap at the same time and with the new clutch peddle I am now very cramped again. I wish I had pushed the riser back another 3-4" before I welded it all back in.

 

[1965stangcoupe]

Not as big of a pain as you would think. I did it, about a weekend job if you get interupted every 5 minutes like I do. I'll make one suggestion that I wish I would have done better, move the pan back a few inches as well. I'm 6'3" and I moved the pan back about 2" but I also did the T5 swap at the same time and with the new clutch peddle I am now very cramped again. I wish I had pushed the riser back another 3-4" before I welded it all back in.

Thats good to hear cause I am also doing the T5 swap! where did you get your peddle ass.? I am also wondering if it would be to much of a problem to take a measurement from another part of the pan, im trying to figure out if the guy before me put it back in the right place! Thanks
Also it looks like you have rust encapsulator on your pans...? if so how is it holding up?

PS. still curious as to who the seller is!

 

[dennis112]

You don't have to move the pans to the rear. If you do, you will need to make new holes in the floor boards to install the nuts on the tracks.

Here are some notes and pics of how I solved the problem of needing more room:

http://www.geocities.com/dennis_2685/Seatadjust.html

I am very happy with the results!

 

[entdoc]

the first ebay pic,the one with red stiching is the same seat as mine ,however I paid 379 I think from a company called MADD racing,they should still be on EBAY. they should fit in the 65 no problem. My pro forms in my 66 are about the same size as these. The seat sliders go on very easy and should fit the seat pan easily with only minor adjustment to the bolt hole location.

 

[entdoc]

here you go
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2-Ne...tegoryZ33701QQihZ003QQitemZ130064575753QQrdZ1

 

[XXBULLETSXX]

Thats good to hear cause I am also doing the T5 swap! where did you get your peddle ass.? I am also wondering if it would be to much of a problem to take a measurement from another part of the pan, im trying to figure out if the guy before me put it back in the right place! Thanks
Also it looks like you have rust encapsulator on your pans...? if so how is it holding up?

PS. still curious as to who the seller is!

I got my peddle assembly from the Auto Fair at Lowes Motor Speedway for $100. They appeared to be in great shape and the seller claimed he rebuilt them recently. I've found some each time I've been to the swap meets so you should do good looking at one of those type of events. Heck I see them on Ebay often but you'll probably pay more there.
The underside of my risers had minimal surface rust on them which I wire brushed off and sprayed rust treatment on and then painted. The top sides which you saw were fine with no rust.
I'm not sure about the placement part but if you're going to cut them out (keep in mind you only have to move the driver side, passenger side is optional) then I would cut them out rebend them which will lower them (that helps a lot!) and then put it back in with your seat and find the right place for YOU. Wish I had done it that way...hind site heh? Note this from my experience, you will need a lot more room once you do the swap.

You don't have to move the pans to the rear. If you do, you will need to make new holes in the floor boards to install the nuts on the tracks.

Here are some notes and pics of how I solved the problem of needing more room:

http://www.geocities.com/dennis_2685/Seatadjust.html

I am very happy with the results!

I like the site, in fact I saved it as a favorite. The only I'm not sure if I like is the rails really showing when the seat is back. Most probably wouldn't notice but some times it's the things that bother you.
You're totally right about the new holes needed in the floor pan if you move the riser back too far. But I was willing to add the holes if I had to. Now that I've found that it wasn't enough I'm willing to do just about anything to make room.
Another thing about that website you posted, keep in mind he's talking about if you're 6 foot and he states you'll only need to add a couple inches. Well I'm 6'3" and it's been my experience through life that means I should add that additional 3 inches to his mentioned "couple inches" bringing the total movement back to 5 inches. That may be a lot of extension sticking out from under the seat...it would be in my book. So in some cases I personally think it is best to move the rises back since you're already cutting them out?
Just my thoughts...

 

[1965stangcoupe]

I got my peddle assembly from the Auto Fair at Lowes Motor Speedway for $100. They appeared to be in great shape and the seller claimed he rebuilt them recently. I've found some each time I've been to the swap meets so you should do good looking at one of those type of events. Heck I see them on Ebay often but you'll probably pay more there.
The underside of my risers had minimal surface rust on them which I wire brushed off and sprayed rust treatment on and then painted. The top sides which you saw were fine with no rust.
I'm not sure about the placement part but if you're going to cut them out (keep in mind you only have to move the driver side, passenger side is optional) then I would cut them out rebend them which will lower them (that helps a lot!) and then put it back in with your seat and find the right place for YOU. Wish I had done it that way...hind site heh? Note this from my experience, you will need a lot more room once you do the swap.




I like the site, in fact I saved it as a favorite. The only I'm not sure if I like is the rails really showing when the seat is back. Most probably wouldn't notice but some times it's the things that bother you.
You're totally right about the new holes needed in the floor pan if you move the riser back too far. But I was willing to add the holes if I had to. Now that I've found that it wasn't enough I'm willing to do just about anything to make room.
Another thing about that website you posted, keep in mind he's talking about if you're 6 foot and he states you'll only need to add a couple inches. Well I'm 6'3" and it's been my experience through life that means I should add that additional 3 inches to his mentioned "couple inches" bringing the total movement back to 5 inches. That may be a lot of extension sticking out from under the seat...it would be in my book. So in some cases I personally think it is best to move the rises back since you're already cutting them out?
Just my thoughts...

Ya I saved it too! Hey I was looking at your cardomain website and am wondering what color of paint that is? and Brand?
I am also wondering what your pedal ass. came out of so i can look it up on ebay? and what did you use for clutch linkage? cable? how do you like it? Thank you very much! You got a very nice car there!!!!
I will be posting a cardomain page soon myself but mine being finished is way over the horizon!

 

[dennis112]

Well I'm 6'3" and it's been my experience through life that means I should add that additional 3 inches to his mentioned "couple inches" bringing the total movement back to 5 inches. That may be a lot of extension sticking out from under the seat...it would be in my book. So in some cases I personally think it is best to move the rises back since you're already cutting them out?
Just my thoughts...

Thanks for saving the site.

What you didn't get from the site, mostly because they are notes, is the fact that I am the one who did the mods and created the web page. I never got around to making a proper page, but wanted the info to be available when necessary.

I too am 6'3" and can tell you that two inches back is plenty, especially if you dropped the floor pans an inch or so as found in the first link. The tracks I made are good for 3" back, but that is not needed. With the dropped riser and the tracks set back, I am straight armed when shifting into 2nd or 4th, which is most forward and near the dash. I am almost straight armed with the steering wheel, like an early European performance car. I need to lean forward (actually quite a bit) in order to turn on the headlights, wipers, or adjust the volume of the radio. I did not try the extending the seat tracks first before cutting the pans. Cutting the pan allows more than enough roof clearance for me to wear a helmet. It also makes me look like a short kid driving the car to the outside world.

Anyways, the instructions given work great with my 6' 3" frame and no other mods are needed and in my case, none are planned. As far as seeing the tracks, they quickly become invisible in a black interior, especially when the new paint lost its gloss. Remember you can see the stock gray tracks too.

When/if I decide to sell my car later, all I really need to do is remove the tracks and bolt the seats back into the original position. Hopefully a new owner won't mind the lowered pan. I can use the tracks in my "next" project . . . . . .

Gee, sorry if the post sounds comes off sounding defensive, it wasn't meant to be--I am in a rush to head to work and typing as fast as I can. . . . .

Good Luck to all!!!

 

[dennis112]

N/M

 

[dennis112]

N/M

 

[1965stangcoupe]

I am wondering if any one has these summit seats? how do you like them and how do they fit in your car?

I will probably go with the ebay seats but i'm still curious!
thanks

http://store.summitracing.com/partd...700+4294925230+4294839019+4294804476+400304+0

 

[red302]

I am wondering if any one has these summit seats? how do you like them and how do they fit in your car?

I will probably go with the ebay seats but i'm still curious!
thanks

http://store.summitracing.com/partd...700+4294925230+4294839019+4294804476+400304+0

I have the summit seats in my '85. I'm very happy with 'em, and they're more comfortable than the stock seats were on a long drive. I looked at many seats that were much more expensive and were'nt nearly as comfortable before I bought them. I'm thinking about putting them in the '68 as well. They should fit without any problem. These leather seats look very nice also, very similar to the summit ones.

 

[jlangholzj]

has anybody jsut used the rails to extend the seats and not lowered the pan?? or is this not advised? i too am 6'4" and find myself needing a bit more room. also i was considering swaping out the standard 15" steering wheel for the 13", that would give me another 1" along the outside of the wheel, hey when you get this big, everything you can do to make more room is worth considering

 

[1965stangcoupe]

I have the summit seats in my '85. I'm very happy with 'em, and they're more comfortable than the stock seats were on a long drive. I looked at many seats that were much more expensive and were'nt nearly as comfortable before I bought them. I'm thinking about putting them in the '68 as well. They should fit without any problem. These leather seats look very nice also, very similar to the summit ones.

Are your seat belts deist? Do you mind me asking how much they were? I would like to do the same for my car but I want to keep the back seat so I will mount the belts on the floor(renforced) right behind the front seats. Has anyone done this? Is there any reasons not to do it that way?

 

[XXBULLETSXX]

Ya I saved it too! Hey I was looking at your cardomain website and am wondering what color of paint that is? and Brand?
I am also wondering what your pedal ass. came out of so i can look it up on ebay? and what did you use for clutch linkage? cable? how do you like it? Thank you very much! You got a very nice car there!!!!
I will be posting a cardomain page soon myself but mine being finished is way over the horizon!

The paint code was supposed to be a copy of the authentic color code for the Red of the 66 mustang. However, it doesn't look it to me...a little off in my opinion but I like it none the less. The pedal assembly is just a "pedal assemble from a 64-66 Mustang". Not sure if there is a difference but the one I bought at the autofair had the year written on it and it worked in my case. BTW, when you go to do the change heres a tip that will save you some time. You can put the "frame" of the pedal assemble in by inserting it thru the opening where your gauges are. I didn't even disconnect my wiring from my gauges..just laid them face down and slid in the new assembly frame. One more tip, if you go with a cable solution you will need the clutch return spring. To make it easy to put in, use a floor jack to stretch it out a little and put washers in between the coils then release the jack so the spring holds the washers in place keeping it stretched out. Once you have the spring in place...stand on the pedal and the washers should fall out. Job done. I went with the hydro clutch but figured out I didn't need the return spring until after I had it installed. PITA, to get back out. LOL
I like the Hydro clutch but it's almost to easy to push...like theres nothing there. Amazing...but weird.

Thanks for saving the site.

What you didn't get from the site, mostly because they are notes, is the fact that I am the one who did the mods and created the web page. I never got around to making a proper page, but wanted the info to be available when necessary.

I too am 6'3" and can tell you that two inches back is plenty, especially if you dropped the floor pans an inch or so as found in the first link. The tracks I made are good for 3" back, but that is not needed. With the dropped riser and the tracks set back, I am straight armed when shifting into 2nd or 4th, which is most forward and near the dash. I am almost straight armed with the steering wheel, like an early European performance car. I need to lean forward (actually quite a bit) in order to turn on the headlights, wipers, or adjust the volume of the radio. I did not try the extending the seat tracks first before cutting the pans. Cutting the pan allows more than enough roof clearance for me to wear a helmet. It also makes me look like a short kid driving the car to the outside world.

Anyways, the instructions given work great with my 6' 3" frame and no other mods are needed and in my case, none are planned. As far as seeing the tracks, they quickly become invisible in a black interior, especially when the new paint lost its gloss. Remember you can see the stock gray tracks too.

When/if I decide to sell my car later, all I really need to do is remove the tracks and bolt the seats back into the original position. Hopefully a new owner won't mind the lowered pan. I can use the tracks in my "next" project . . . . . .

Gee, sorry if the post sounds comes off sounding defensive, it wasn't meant to be--I am in a rush to head to work and typing as fast as I can. . . . .

Good Luck to all!!!

No offense taken, heck I'm glad you took the time to do the great write up on how to help others with the same problem you had. Thank you!
I guess the only differences would be some have longer legs than others. Since I've already done the risers, I plan to follow your instructions and extend my seat rails. Not to mention I know how I welded my risers back in and those things are not going to come back out easily! But for someone who has not done the modification I would reccomend moving the risers back 4 inches before welding back in. Not sure it that would change anything structurally to the body/frame having the risers back a few inches like that so check into it before you pull the trigger on the MIG.

Good luck to all and if I can help let me know!!