Why Painless? Why EZ? Why not replace with stock style wiring?

[Big_B]

After reading several threads and searching through the forums I am stuck with a question:

Why would someone choose to use the Painless kit (or similar) over stock-type replacement pieces? From what I have read the "painless" kit seems anything but.

I am starting a 4th (or so) semi-restoration of a stang I have owned since the mid 80's, and I am realizing I have some wiring issues with (mainly) the headlight and guage feed sections, in addition to some underdash hacks that I am thinking I can live with.

One of my concerns is doing it right and somewhat historically correct. My ride is a safety upgraded (brakes, steering, susp) weekend cruiser with 4bbl/intake/headers.

I guess I'm just curious to hear why people chose one over the other.

 

[10secgoal]

Honestly I've heard more than once they aren't that easy. The wires where all to long like a universal app ?

 

[PJx5x]

thicker wire, more fuses, etc. im assuming you dont have a new stereo, power windows, etc?

 

[rbohm]

the biggest advantage of the stock replacement harness's is that they look stock. many places however require that you send your old harness to them so they can transfer your sockets and connectors to the new harness for you.

the biggest advantages to using aftermarket harness's is that you get an updated fuse box, extra long wires so you can locate the fuse box where you wish(even in the trunk if you choose), a fuse box that is prewired and the wires marked as to where they go.

any wiring project, regardless of type(stock or aftermarket) is not the easiest task, and is quite time consuming to do. that said, both styles do make it easier to rewire a car than the old way, taking several rolls of wire of various colors and wiring a car from scratch(i have done that as well).

 

[Az Pete]

I used a new, stock wiring harness in my '66. Went from headlight to tail light and was a dream to install. They did not ask for my old plugs or anything. Just laid it in place in the car and hooked things up. No power windows, heavy stereo or other major elec. options so it worked great. If I add in any new systems, I will simply do my own wiring harness based on what I have learned thu this project.

 

[Big_B]

im assuming you dont have a new stereo, power windows, etc?

While no power windows, I do have a nicer alpine head unit that was installed about 10 years ago. I ran a nice thick wire with it's own fuse from the deck to the battery. I only used the switched lead for power on/off.

Interesting answers so far. Maybe a lot of it has to do with end use - a slightly modified daily driver has a few accessories, while a full blown restomod could have many, which would require the use of additional circuits.

I'm just trying to figure out how to fix/replace my crusty old wires cheaply and quickly, but with a clean end product.

 

[mustangdave]

$$$$$ The stock underdash harness for my 67 is over $450 and that doesn't even include the gauge wiring. To use stock replacement wiring for the whole car would cost over $1200!!! Also, the newer harnesses are said to have better quality wire.

 

[SoCal69GT]

$$$$$ The stock underdash harness for my 67 is over $450 and that doesn't even include the gauge wiring. To use stock replacement wiring for the whole car would cost over $1200!!! Also, the newer harnesses are said to have better quality wire.

 

[mustbereel]

painless

I used the Painless kit because I wanted to replace every wire in the car and realized it would cost much more to buy all repro wiring harnesses. It also had provisions for extra circuits like power windows, electric fan and stereos. I found the kit easy to install but I am familiar with wiring and electrical design. It certainly is not as easy as pluging in replacement "factory" harnesses but if you have some experience and time it will give you a modern electrical system.

 

[spirockp]

I used the Painless kit to replace the 40 year wires so I won't have to worry for another 40 years.

As far as it being painless, I thought it was. Did not have one issue.

 

[Edbert]

I added far too much stuff to use a stock style, I have 8 relays not including the ones that came with the 18-circuit kit, plus the improved fuse designs are desireable to me. Here's a list of some of the mods I put in:

Battery moved to trunk

Removed fender solenoid

Modern starter

Fuse box moved to trunk

“Single wire” alternator

Electric fan with thermostatic switch

Electric water pump

H4 headlights

Electronic ignition (MSD 6AL)

MSD distributor

Electric windows

Seven aftermarket gauges

An original wire-harness would not even come close to getting this stuff hooked up.

 

[95CobraStang]

I have a question that is on this subject, so I figure I would post here...plus, I think Edbert would be the perfect one to answer... here goes:

I bought and have 50% installed the '67 Painless harness only to change my plans with the car. By that I mean I have many extra things to add. Here is the list:
- Better headlights...H4...etc
- 3g alternator or something like that
- Fuel Injection
- Power locks
- Power windows
- MSD6AL
- AutoMeter Gauges
- Fog lights
- Electric Fan
- New style starter and prob solenoid

Note: I am basically running a late model setup w/ AOD... DSS is currently building me a 306 w/ AFR185s that will be ready to accept my Kenne Bell S/C (GT40 lower)
How would I go about the wiring for these ones? Just buy more relays? Any help would be appreciated as it will save some learning time.

thx and sorry to hijack a bit

 

[madbrad]

It wasnt easy to do but in the end it was worth it. The reason i did it was because of a short that i could not find. I got tired of starting my car by jumping the solenoid, so i took it all out. When you have almost 30 year old wiring your asking for problems.

 

[mustangdave]

You have a 68 from what I see in your profile which allows you to use the new Painless 67-68 specific harness that already has most of the connectors and a couple of extra circuits to boot. From what I hear,this harness is even better than earlier year harnesses for Mustangs.

 

[Big_B]

You have a 68 from what I see in your profile which allows you to use the new Painless 67-68 specific harness that already has most of the connectors and a couple of extra circuits to boot. From what I hear,this harness is even better than earlier year harnesses for Mustangs.

I hadn't heard of that yet, but I will look into it. I guess the last painless thread I read had pictures of wires all over the place in a big rat's nest, and I wasn't looking forward to getting that involved in something I was trying to correct while I was doing engine bay work.

My purpose for this thread was twofold, I was generally curious to see why people went one way or another, and also I didn't see any threads discussing the merits of either way when I did some forum searches. Hopefully future readers will find this one and it will help in their decision process.

Thanks for all the input gang.

 

[RFMustangGT]

I've put 2 painless systems in (55 T-bird and 62 T-bird) and had no major problems at all. the new kits are nicer than the old ones cause the new ones have every wire marked so there is no forgetting what that wire was. Just take your time, check your grounds, and do 1 wire at a time.