Did the mechanic screw me?Need my car help!

[racer_inboston]

Hey guys,
I have a 1993 lx 4 cyl n/a. I bought it cheap for driving back and forth to work. It drove ok before but i put new plugs (I did change them 1 by 1 and matched lenth of new ones to the old ones 1 by 1) drove fine for 2 weeks, It failed inspection due to the parking brake so I took it to have a local mechanic's fixed it. The mechanic gave me an estimate over the fon for the Job after keepinmg the car overnight. the estimate was $400 I was like you said $250 tops this morning. He denies telling me that so I told him I would go for my car today. I get in it and it DRIVES like CRAP! hesitates and when it does start to pick up it ticks from the pass side rear of the motor. On idle under the hood the sound is loud from that side.

I just know for a fact he did something...where should I start looking?

Thanks friends.

 

[Shawneebear93]

Well ... just to be sure we cover all bases here (and not to perceive you as some dumbass) but concerning the hesitation and barely moving, the parking brake is not pulled up (in the on position), correct?

 

[racer_inboston]

Correct. There is no cable and yes the e-brake handle is on its disangaged position. Yeah man I think he screwed me by swaping ignition wires for not letting him do my e-brake. Just not too familiar with this set up to pin point it. I know I have to go out there tomorrow to fix it but want to be ahead of the game. ANd thanks so much all info would be kind.
p.s
gonna go and check for ark as soon as it gets dark, the bastard might have sliced a boot and one of the wires might be arching the block.

 

[Keasbey]

Yeah take a look at each wire. see if he didn't loose a spark plug.

If I were you, I would go to another mecanic.

 

[racer_inboston]

Keasbey ,

Yes I know about going to another mechanic to have the work done. Still the issue here is not the e-brake, the issue here is the car was running good when I left it there and it spattered and hesitated as soon as I took it around the corner.

ok guys, I just starter up the car in complete darkness, there is no arc anywhere. tomorrow i will check firing order which should be 1,3,4,2 I bet he just swapped plug boots on me at the coil or at at the motor.

any mor einfo you guys think I should check let me know. The guy had about 30 miutes from when I first told him I didn't want him to do the work to when I picked up the car.

 

[stykthyn]

sounds like when I changed my plugs and accidentally pulled off the connector to the fuel injector. check those . they are on the intake side of the engine.

 

[racer_inboston]

I changed the plugs weeks ago, car ran fine until 2 days ago when I took it to this mechanic to check fix my"E" brake. Believe me he unplugged somehting or switched someyhing so that I would be stuck having him fix the "e" brake and this new fuel/ignition problem. I will check in a few for firing order and will also check the fuel injectors

 

[Brantley]

You don't have to wait until dark to see if it's arcing.. just get a spray bottle with water in it and gently spray it over the igition system while the engine is runnnig. If it has been or is arcing, you'll find it.

 

[racer_inboston]

There is no arching. I also checked the injectors. Last are the spark plug wires in question. I attached a pic of the engine coils, just don't know which is which on the coil since they are NOT marked. I attahced a pic so someone can help me designate the proper order of plug wires to coil connector . Thanks guys I really need this car fixed by tomorrow

 

[racer_inboston]

this is the plug to cylinder order in which my car is right now. Does it look correct? I know that in this foreum there are about 3 diff diagrams, but none match what I reaserched under my hoos today. Here is how thery are hooked up.

4 1
3 2
-----
2 3
1 4

looking at the coilpacks standing in front of the engine and following each wire designate order.
DOes this look correct?

 

[RustBucket]

That doesn't look right.

Try this:

Facing the front of the motor and starting at the back coil pack it should look like this

2E | 1E
-------- Rear coil pack top row is closest to firewall.
3E | 4E

4I | 3I
------- Front coil pack Top row is against rear coil pack.
1I | 2I

I=intake side
E=exhaust side.

See if that straightens you out. That's how mine's arranged.

 

[racer_inboston]

Negative, I did them per your diagram :
3E | 1E
-------- Rear coil pack top row is closest to firewall.
2E | 4E

4I | 2I
------- Front coil pack Top row is against rear coil pack.
1I | 3I

I=intake side
E=exhaust side.

AND IT DIDN'T START. I feel helpless , what else can I try?

 

[RustBucket]

Double check it. I edited the original post earlier. I wrote it down wrong. Sorry.

 

[racer_inboston]

RustBucket ,

The car didn't even start. I set it back to:
4 1
3 2
-----
2 3
1 4

and that way it will stay running, but like I said give it gas and it sputters and runs like crap. HELP this car is a 1999 convertible lx 4 cyl, what IS the correct order? anyone?

 

[racer_inboston]

This is the order in which the coils are and the only way it starts. I tried all of the above combinations and it doesn't start. attached is a pic . runs ****ty but runs.

4 1
3 2
----
2 3
1 4

 

[racer_inboston]

bump any one?

 

[Ponycar]

this is from my haynes manual

 

[racer_inboston]

I will try this when I get home, thanks.

 

[racer_inboston]

I tried every combination you guys gave me, but hti sis the only order in which the car runs fine. I have a bad exhaust leak at the header but which i htink is makin git bogg a bit. If anyone can elaborate more as to why every ones diagrams or manuals show different than what is working for me, please do. I guess now I gotta go and post "e-brake cables remove and install" next.

thanks.

4 1
3 2
-----
2 3
1 4

 

[Ponycar]

dunno....my 93 is wired as per manual