Homemaid 2-stage Boost controller

[OrangeMustangGt]

I'm trying to get some ideas on how i can do what i need.

My Ebay cheap junk boost controller died. It is letting boost by and my car wont maintain over 5 psi(which my wastegates are set at). I have been trying to find out why for months, i put new plugs in, tightened my clamps and rebuilt my turbos, then i found this problem.....i disconnected the wastegates and it hit 15psi before i was able to let off.


SO.....I figured i might as whell upgrade a bit if i have to replace parts.

My car will annihilate the tires through 1st and 2nd at 10psi.....so it makes fast street starts hard.....

I would like to be able to run 5psi in the first 2 gears then be able to switch over to 10 psi for 3rd and on.


SO, i was thinking if i bought 2 boost controllers and found some type of solenoid to make a switch i would be good.......any ideas?

 

[mo_dingo]

I'm trying to get some ideas on how i can do what i need.

My Ebay cheap junk boost controller died. It is letting boost by and my car wont maintain over 5 psi(which my wastegates are set at). I have been trying to find out why for months, i put new plugs in, tightened my clamps and rebuilt my turbos, then i found this problem.....i disconnected the wastegates and it hit 15psi before i was able to let off.


SO.....I figured i might as whell upgrade a bit if i have to replace parts.

My car will annihilate the tires through 1st and 2nd at 10psi.....so it makes fast street starts hard.....

I would like to be able to run 5psi in the first 2 gears then be able to switch over to 10 psi for 3rd and on.


SO, i was thinking if i bought 2 boost controllers and found some type of solenoid to make a switch i would be good.......any ideas?

The first BOV set at 5psi would release into the atmo at 5psi and higher. You would have to close the 5 psi bov and open the 10 psi bov at the same time.

Why not just get 1 electronic BOV that you can control from inside the car?

To be honest, I would just try to learn to drive better on 10 psi instead of just flooring it.

Have you thought of upgrading your suspension setup to hook better? What about wider rear tires?
Scott

 

[OrangeMustangGt]

yeah i was thinking of one type of valve that opens/closes.

I know they make 2 stage ones like i want but they are $200.....electrnic boost controllers start at $400.


My car makes boost soo fast, that its all of nothing.......even at part throttle.


I have 295 rear tires but i could go wider.

Thanks for the help man

 

[urban96]

my friend had a greedy electronic one that looked easy enough to use

 

[BlackVert]

did you want a manual setup or one that automatically switched based on speed?

i wonder what the voltage range is on the speedo ... i'm thinking hook up a voltage switch to the speedo that turns on when the speedo voltage is above a certain value (you control the switching voltage with a potentiometer). that switch runs a relay that controls the boost controllers ...

 

[Bens95cobra8594]

Check out Hallman boost controllers. I had one on my Daytona IROC and the thing worked really well. I believe they make a 2 stage one. Plus, you could always just get ideas and fab something similar.
www.hallmanboostcontroller.com
Good luck.

 

[mo_dingo]

yeah i was thinking of one type of valve that opens/closes.

I know they make 2 stage ones like i want but they are $200.....electrnic boost controllers start at $400.


My car makes boost soo fast, that its all of nothing.......even at part throttle.


I have 295 rear tires but i could go wider.

Thanks for the help man

295 is wide enough. I would try some subframe connectors and lca's with upgraded bushings IMO. I know that's money that you dont want to spend, but it's well worth it. Lift bars might be another option.
Scott

 

[OrangeMustangGt]

thanks again. I allready have sfc's and upper and lower control arms.....the car overall seems to hook pretty good.....untill i gave it some extra power lol.

Thanks for the help guys, i may just go with one of those 2-stage boost controllers and stop being cheap. I could put a switch somewhere or.......like you said blackvert, use a speedo triggered relay. I was also thinking of making some sort of microswith and latching relay at the shifter for 3rd gear? Thanks guys

 

[reddy351]

IMO....You've spent a lot of money to make a lot of power. I say spend the money on the electronic one. Don't cheap out, now.

 

[Bens95cobra8594]

IMO....You've spent a lot of money to make a lot of power. I say spend the money on the electronic one. Don't cheap out, now.

That's a good point... (above)

I read through the build-up a while ago and am always impressed.

If the car is only running low boost now, imagine what kind of power it could make if it were controllable through graduated levels of boost. I.e. 5 psi at 0-20mph, 7psi at 21-30mph and 10psi at 31-55mph and 12psi at 55 and above. Or something like that.

I know at lot of tuners can "tune" (for lack of a better term) their rides to have lesser boost to gain traction and then more and more as the car goes faster. That wasn't really that well written, but you get the point.

Electronics are goooooood ! ! ! !

 

[OrangeMustangGt]

i agree.....if electronic boost controllers werent so damn expensive.

Oh whell, i might just save up for a while and buy an electronic boost controler if i can find one with the right features.......like you pointed out above.

 

[reddy351]

Electronic (and other expensive) boost controllers are what is making the 10.5" Drag Radial classes so damned fast. There is NO WAY you would get an 1200hp ANYTHING to "hook" on a 10.5" "DOT" tire, unless you have 400-500hp at the line and build more after getting out of the hole. I think I heard a racer call it "traction management".

I've heard guys on Stangnet say "Do it once, do it right the first time."

 

[Labora]

Save your $$ and get a electric one or maybe some better tires...

And don't bother hooking it up to your speedo if the car starts spinning like crazy the speedo will go thru the roof making it worse when it switches to 10psi.