Quick question. After my Intake manifold cracked 1 week after my warrenty expired, and ford told me a whopping 1500 to fix it. I figured i can probally get it done here in the shop. Other then the New intake manifold which only runs about $200. What else would i need to perform this swap. Any one have a parts list. Also anyone have any sugguestions on things i should do while i have it apart.
Intake Manifold Replacement
- Thread starter dannyboy1999
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All you need is the intake manifold.
Suggestions for what to do while it's off ... change your spark plugs (its really easy), clean your injectors if they look funky, clean your TB and plentum since you will be taking them off anyway, remember to use never seez on all they bolts that you re-install but clean the threads first with a steel brush, make sure you know the sequence to tighten the IM bolts (haynes manual or Ford service cd) .... just some sugg's.
Suggestions for what to do while it's off ... change your spark plugs (its really easy), clean your injectors if they look funky, clean your TB and plentum since you will be taking them off anyway, remember to use never seez on all they bolts that you re-install but clean the threads first with a steel brush, make sure you know the sequence to tighten the IM bolts (haynes manual or Ford service cd) .... just some sugg's.
Well, I mean you need sockets and a ratchet .. lol ... but yeah, if you are doing a direct replacement then the gasket may be part of the new manifold. If it isn't, then it will surely come with the manifold.
You are paying Ford for labor ... Sounds kinda high to me but it's definitely a job worth doing yourself. I had fun doing mine (as odd as that may sound) ...
Oh, and check your injector O-rings too while it's off ... two of mine were kinda worn so I replaced em.
You are paying Ford for labor ... Sounds kinda high to me but it's definitely a job worth doing yourself. I had fun doing mine (as odd as that may sound) ...
Oh, and check your injector O-rings too while it's off ... two of mine were kinda worn so I replaced em.
You would do good to replace the gaskets...since you have the intake off anyway.
It's really an easy job...just a little tedious. The only special tool you may need is fuel line disconnects. Otherwise a decent mechanics tool set is more than enough. Also there is a heater hose on the rear of the engine that is real easy to get to with the intake off...good time to replace it also.
It's really an easy job...just a little tedious. The only special tool you may need is fuel line disconnects. Otherwise a decent mechanics tool set is more than enough. Also there is a heater hose on the rear of the engine that is real easy to get to with the intake off...good time to replace it also.
RandyStinchcomb
New Member
depending on "who's" intake you get, you'll also need a new alt brkt and you should re-place the intake gaskets.
now a Ford re-placement "PI" intake kit is $735.12 "suggested" list price and labor rate at our shop is $85.00 an hour and the book calls for @4hrs labor, so yes they are a little high.
now a Ford re-placement "PI" intake kit is $735.12 "suggested" list price and labor rate at our shop is $85.00 an hour and the book calls for @4hrs labor, so yes they are a little high.
LaserRed01GT
Banned
This is an extremely simple R&R, just take your time. The book calls for 4.2 hours, but that also includes several things that are unnecessary like pulling the alternator. You can do it yourself in less than that. Like Randy mentioned, it would be a good idea to replace the intake manifold gaskets.
I'm sure you can search and find a full write-up online, but I will try to give you as many pointers as I can remember off the top of my head.
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Take note of where all the vacuum lines/hoses go when you disconnect them. Be careful with the small EGR differential vacuum hoses back by the driver's side firewall.
3. You do not need a fuel line disconnect tool, just gently pull the fuel rails off the injectors leaving the injectors in the intake manifold, then just lay the fuel rails over to the passenger side.
4. Instead of unbolting the EGR feed pipe from the EGR solenoid, just unbolt the two 10mm bolts holding the actual EGR housing to the plenum. It’s much easier that way when you go to install the new intake.
5. When I mentioned above leaving the injectors in the intake, this makes swapping over the injectors to the new intake easier and ensures that you keep the injectors on the same cylinder they came from. It’s important to keep the coils and injectors on the same cylinders. You can just leave the COP’s (coil on plugs) attached to the intake as well then swap them once you have the original intake removed. The COP’s are retained by a 7mm bolt.
6. Check the injector o-rings. If they look dried or cracked, replace them. Always dab a little bit of clean silicon around the injector o-rings when you go to re-seat the injectors in the intake and fuel rails.
7. You’ll find it very helpful to have a friend hold aside the wire harness and EGR feed pipe when you are ready to pull the intake. Contrary to most service manuals you DO NOT need to remove the alternator. You can either get the specific alternator bracket to bolt to the updated intake manifold, or you can simply drill two new holes in the existing bracket. The alternator is bolted firmly to the block, the alternator upper bracket is just there more for safety rather than function.
8. Once you have the intake manifold off, clean the intake manifold/cylinder head mating surface very well making sure not to get and large debris in the intake runners. Wipe down the mating surface with some carb/brake cleaner.
9. This would be a good time to change your spark plugs, PCV valve, and thermostat while you’re there.
10. When you go to install the new intake manifold, make sure that all the injector and coil pigtail connectors are out of the way before you tighten down the intake. I’ve seen lots of people crush those connectors.
I think all the rest is fairly obvious and pretty straightforward. Just take your time and don’t rush yourself.
Here are the important torque specs and tightening orders:
View attachment 406673
View attachment 406675
I'm sure you can search and find a full write-up online, but I will try to give you as many pointers as I can remember off the top of my head.
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Take note of where all the vacuum lines/hoses go when you disconnect them. Be careful with the small EGR differential vacuum hoses back by the driver's side firewall.
3. You do not need a fuel line disconnect tool, just gently pull the fuel rails off the injectors leaving the injectors in the intake manifold, then just lay the fuel rails over to the passenger side.
4. Instead of unbolting the EGR feed pipe from the EGR solenoid, just unbolt the two 10mm bolts holding the actual EGR housing to the plenum. It’s much easier that way when you go to install the new intake.
5. When I mentioned above leaving the injectors in the intake, this makes swapping over the injectors to the new intake easier and ensures that you keep the injectors on the same cylinder they came from. It’s important to keep the coils and injectors on the same cylinders. You can just leave the COP’s (coil on plugs) attached to the intake as well then swap them once you have the original intake removed. The COP’s are retained by a 7mm bolt.
6. Check the injector o-rings. If they look dried or cracked, replace them. Always dab a little bit of clean silicon around the injector o-rings when you go to re-seat the injectors in the intake and fuel rails.
7. You’ll find it very helpful to have a friend hold aside the wire harness and EGR feed pipe when you are ready to pull the intake. Contrary to most service manuals you DO NOT need to remove the alternator. You can either get the specific alternator bracket to bolt to the updated intake manifold, or you can simply drill two new holes in the existing bracket. The alternator is bolted firmly to the block, the alternator upper bracket is just there more for safety rather than function.
8. Once you have the intake manifold off, clean the intake manifold/cylinder head mating surface very well making sure not to get and large debris in the intake runners. Wipe down the mating surface with some carb/brake cleaner.
9. This would be a good time to change your spark plugs, PCV valve, and thermostat while you’re there.
10. When you go to install the new intake manifold, make sure that all the injector and coil pigtail connectors are out of the way before you tighten down the intake. I’ve seen lots of people crush those connectors.
I think all the rest is fairly obvious and pretty straightforward. Just take your time and don’t rush yourself.
Here are the important torque specs and tightening orders:
View attachment 406673
View attachment 406675
RandyStinchcomb
New Member
well, I might be a bit biased here but I say stay away from the aftermarket ones like what "doorman" sells and wth the Frpp intake, you get NO warranty at all.
so that being said, I say get a genuine Ford intake.
we sell the PI intake, 2 intake gaskets wth the correct alt brkt for @$300.00
That is worth $300!!!!!!!!! I played hell trying to find the correct alt bracket!
RandyStinchcomb
New Member
not genuine Ford
maybe aftermarket or Frpp(which as stated above, has NO warranty)
LaserRed01GT
Banned
And when you order parts from Randy, you get a free Liberty Ford license plate holder as well.
Hey Randy, you know what you just reminded me, I never got the updated upper alternator bracket when I ordered my intake a while back. No biggie, but maybe you could send me one when you get a chance. You can PM me or email me.
RandyStinchcomb
New Member
And when you order parts from Randy, you get a free Liberty Ford license plate holder as well.
Hey Randy, you know what you just reminded me, I never got the updated upper alternator bracket when I ordered my intake a while back. No biggie, but maybe you could send me one when you get a chance. You can PM me or email me.
ok, well did I charge you for the brkt
let me know as I'll have to order more for stock
LaserRed01GT
Banned
I thought you'd get a kick out of the free license plate holder promo.
I believe we did discuss the alternator bracket as part of the $300 package that I agreed on. Would it help if I gave you my invoice number?
LaserRed01GT
Banned
I'd agree to stick with a genuine Ford intake. That way you won't have to worry about anything lining up or any fitment issues. It may be priced a little higher than the rest of the updated PI intakes, but it's worth the peace of mind.
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