Western Motorsports CAI installed!!!!!
- Thread starter kooldawg6
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I agree. I love the WOT sound now. Kinda hard resisting to hear it every chance I get. That and having swapped out for the 4.10s. I'm lovin' my Stang more and more!!!!! BTW, I love the Saleen valve covers. I will get the blue ones for mine when I swap out the cams/valve springs in the future.
You guys know the WMS intake works perfect with the Saleen blower
I've seen pics and read it.
Here is a pic of the Ford Racing covers...modularmustangracing has them for $299.99
Attachments
Helmsman: painted them myself and bought some heat resistant labels.
http://www.cherod.com/mustang/HowTo/ValveCover.htm
http://www.cherod.com/mustang/HowTo/ValveCover.htm
Helmsman: I plan on getting a mgw also!!! Have you seen the sneak peak video?
http://www.mgwltd.com/mustang2005_shifter.shtml
http://www.mgwltd.com/mustang2005_shifter.shtml
Hags1, I'd also like to know about the braided hose covers as well. Plus are those the QuickLIFT hood props? If so, where did you get them and how do you like them?
ShowYa06
New Member
The filter cover is from Outerwears Pre Filters. It's part number 100-2084 O/W. It comes in different colors. It's not listed on their website, but if you call they'll know what your talking about.
The hoses and clamps I purchased from amstreetrod.com. They are Earl's brand and are really good quality. You can order the hose by the foot and the clamps come in different colors as well. These are actual stainless steel braided hoses, not the ugly braided sleeves you can buy and slip over your present rubber hoses....that stuff never looks right IMO...
The hood lifts are the Quick Lift Elite from Redline Tuning. They work really good with the stock hood. You can open the hood to the position you want and it'll stay at that position. It can also be open all the way like the pictures shows. I purchased these when I got the WMS Ram Air Box so I wouldn't have to notch the edge for the prop rod. I've read that these hood lifts aren't recommended with the after market fiberglass hoods tho.
Couple thoughts I had when I did my WMS CAI and WMS Ram Air Box. I followed someone's idea of lining the back side of the Ram Air Box with heat barrier sheeting and tape. You can see the back of my box looks silver, which is the heat barrier sheeting and tape. They sell that stuff at Summit Racing. The thought here was to slow down the engine heat from entering into the ram air box. When my hood is down the ram air box slightly touches the hoods liner, basically making an enclosed box that the filter sits in. The air coming thru the radiator and into the box is probably as close to cold air intake as your going to get. Enclosing the box with heat barrier sheeting keeps the heat of the engine out of the box. I've run my car during the summer's heat and popped the hood to see how hot the ram air tray is....it's never hot and you can touch it with your bare hand....My other CAI was hot from the engine heat and touching it had to be done cautiously.
I mentioned I purchased the hood lifts so I wouldn't have to notch the ram air tray for the hood prop. I also decided on the braided hoses since the ram air tray sits on the upper radiator hose. I wanted to make sure the tray wouldn't wear thru the hose since it's sitting on top of it and the hose moves when the engine moves. I know it's kind of anal, but I didn't want the tray to wear thru the radiator hose....probably wouldn't happen even with the stock rubber hose.
On the MAF wiring and having to cut the wires. Ford does make a long MAF harness that has the wires and the same OEM connector already attached. So basically you would cut the wires and then splice on this longer harness, but you only need to do the 6 wires once, instead of doing both ends of the wires when using the original MAF connector, which equals 12 splices. You also retain your original MAF connector and can put the whole thing back the way it was if you decide too...but you still have to spice the wires together.
The part number on the longer MAF harness is 3U2Z14S411FJAA. There was an attempt to find a MAF extension that had both ends of the MAF connector already on it...but nothing ever came of a very exhaustive search. There is a very pricey extension out there that would work, but it's designed for a supercharger I believe.
hags1
The hoses and clamps I purchased from amstreetrod.com. They are Earl's brand and are really good quality. You can order the hose by the foot and the clamps come in different colors as well. These are actual stainless steel braided hoses, not the ugly braided sleeves you can buy and slip over your present rubber hoses....that stuff never looks right IMO...
The hood lifts are the Quick Lift Elite from Redline Tuning. They work really good with the stock hood. You can open the hood to the position you want and it'll stay at that position. It can also be open all the way like the pictures shows. I purchased these when I got the WMS Ram Air Box so I wouldn't have to notch the edge for the prop rod. I've read that these hood lifts aren't recommended with the after market fiberglass hoods tho.
Couple thoughts I had when I did my WMS CAI and WMS Ram Air Box. I followed someone's idea of lining the back side of the Ram Air Box with heat barrier sheeting and tape. You can see the back of my box looks silver, which is the heat barrier sheeting and tape. They sell that stuff at Summit Racing. The thought here was to slow down the engine heat from entering into the ram air box. When my hood is down the ram air box slightly touches the hoods liner, basically making an enclosed box that the filter sits in. The air coming thru the radiator and into the box is probably as close to cold air intake as your going to get. Enclosing the box with heat barrier sheeting keeps the heat of the engine out of the box. I've run my car during the summer's heat and popped the hood to see how hot the ram air tray is....it's never hot and you can touch it with your bare hand....My other CAI was hot from the engine heat and touching it had to be done cautiously.
I mentioned I purchased the hood lifts so I wouldn't have to notch the ram air tray for the hood prop. I also decided on the braided hoses since the ram air tray sits on the upper radiator hose. I wanted to make sure the tray wouldn't wear thru the hose since it's sitting on top of it and the hose moves when the engine moves. I know it's kind of anal, but I didn't want the tray to wear thru the radiator hose....probably wouldn't happen even with the stock rubber hose.
On the MAF wiring and having to cut the wires. Ford does make a long MAF harness that has the wires and the same OEM connector already attached. So basically you would cut the wires and then splice on this longer harness, but you only need to do the 6 wires once, instead of doing both ends of the wires when using the original MAF connector, which equals 12 splices. You also retain your original MAF connector and can put the whole thing back the way it was if you decide too...but you still have to spice the wires together.
The part number on the longer MAF harness is 3U2Z14S411FJAA. There was an attempt to find a MAF extension that had both ends of the MAF connector already on it...but nothing ever came of a very exhaustive search. There is a very pricey extension out there that would work, but it's designed for a supercharger I believe.
hags1
Notchbck93
New Member
Glad to see that your enjoying your new product. IF you wish to continue to enjoy it for several, trouble-free years, then read below.
My best advice, take off the crappy crimp connectors, get yourself a solder pen and some solder w/flux and do the job the correct way utilizing heat shrink when you are finished.
A year later you will be on here saying that your car runs like ****nat and can't figure it out, maybe it's because the crimp connectors invite moister to attack; even if you use the entire roll of electrical tape.
I've been a wrench for over 12 years; solder the wires.
My best advice, take off the crappy crimp connectors, get yourself a solder pen and some solder w/flux and do the job the correct way utilizing heat shrink when you are finished.
A year later you will be on here saying that your car runs like ****nat and can't figure it out, maybe it's because the crimp connectors invite moister to attack; even if you use the entire roll of electrical tape.
I've been a wrench for over 12 years; solder the wires.
Thanks hags1 for the hose and hood prop info!!!!! I wish I had gotten hood props before having to cut the ram air tray for the stinking factory prop rod... Thanks Notchbck93 for the soldering tip!!!!!
ShowYa06
New Member
I did NOT notch my tray, I did get a stainless prop rod since I have a fiberglass hood and all. I did not want the tension on the hood from struts.
good job it looks nice, only thing I would do different is I would have soldered the connections and covered them in shrink wrap.
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