welder

ShAkE N BaKe!!

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Feb 27, 2007
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I know Im gonna have to replace my floor pans in the near future as they are rusted out. But i never have done any welding. I do want to do the floorpans myself for experience and just to know i actually am doing some of the work myself:D What kind of welder(s) can I use to complete this task? (mig, tig, ect...)
 
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If you are planning on welding sheet metal (i.e. floor pans and body pannels), you want a 110 volt Mig welding setup. There are several good ones on the market to choose from like: Lincoln, Miller, Esab, etc... I have a Lincoln and like it very much. I would look for one with copper windings, they tend to last longer. When you get one, I highly recomend getting lots of practice before welding on your car.
 
very new to the welding scene but......

got a clarke about a month or so ago (from northern tool, ebay has them cheap also). much cheaper than some of the bigger names (with comparable features). Seems like they are made under Lincoln. anyways I found some negative stuff on the web, but nothing from anyone who actually owned one in the last 5-10 years. Many people bashed them, but they were all owner of other high dollar machines. I am sure the more expensive ones have some better qualities, but for a DIY job I believe the clarke will work. The only complaint that from owners of the current production units was the leads were short (which they are). But I have mine on a cart and can move it to where I want. The expendables (tips, wire, etc.) are the same as lincoln so you can pick that stuff up at any Lowes or Home Depot. Also get a auto darkening hood, they are money.
 
Just talked to my dad and he says he has a Lincoln Mig welder in his shed where he keeps his tools. Im not goin to be home till 2maro, so once I see it, ill take some pics. and let you know the specs so you guys can tell me if that will do the job.
...ohh yeah, did i mention, he said i can keep it!:D
 
very new to the welding scene but......

got a clarke about a month or so ago (from northern tool, ebay has them cheap also). much cheaper than some of the bigger names (with comparable features). Seems like they are made under Lincoln. anyways I found some negative stuff on the web, but nothing from anyone who actually owned one in the last 5-10 years. Many people bashed them, but they were all owner of other high dollar machines. I am sure the more expensive ones have some better qualities, but for a DIY job I believe the clarke will work. The only complaint that from owners of the current production units was the leads were short (which they are). But I have mine on a cart and can move it to where I want. The expendables (tips, wire, etc.) are the same as lincoln so you can pick that stuff up at any Lowes or Home Depot. Also get a auto darkening hood, they are money.

What is that and what does it do?
 
It's a welding mask/shield that automatically darkens when you create the welding arc.

Old style helmets you need to line up the gun/weld, then flip down the face mask to weld. You are "welding blind" until the arc is started and the workpiece is visable through the mask.
 
Harbor freight has auto darkening hoods for much less than $200 I have a Hobart 230V 180A welder and it is great and the Hobart hood makes welding MUCH easer especially when you are out of position and need both of your hands and them some.
 
This system claims to weld from 22 gauge (with stitch welder attachment) to 3/16" steel and has a spot welder attachment also. All for $289. Would this be a viable aternative for a beginner?http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?itemID=1294&itemType=PRODUCT

I don't know anything about a stitch welder but if Eastwood claims that it will work, I'm sure that it will work. Maybe somebody else here has used one and can give you specifics on how well it works. For not a whole lot more money you could buy yourself a nice mig. I think the extra money buying a mig would be well spent. They are also fairly user friendly and are versatile.
 
The stich welder is just a fancy arc welder, still just as easy to burn holes AND you have to chip off the flux after welding. If you leave it and just paint over it, it will chip off a month down the road and start to rust. Arc welders are also harder to control because as you weld the stick gets shorter which means your hand has to move closer and closer, while making a bead. For around the same price you can get a MIG welder. The consumables are cheaper, its very easy to learn, and perfect for sheet metal. http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?pid=00920569000&vertical=Sears&BV_UseBVCookie=Yes
As for your floorboards there are 2 weld them in. The most common way is to just weld 1 inch beads every 4-6 inchs along the edges. The other way that tends to be a bit easier and gives a stock look is to puch holes in the flanges and weld in these holes. You can use a simple drill and drill bit to do this, but that takes time and wears out bits which is why most people dont take this route. I use a punch and flange tool to punch the holes which speeds up the proccess much more. They are not very exspensive but do require an air compressor. http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=41696
Good luck and remember measure twice cut once. :nice:
 
I purchased a HF MIG(150) and also have the Eastwood Stitch/spot welder combo(very old version, when they first stated selling them in early 80's). The stitch welder was a miricle tool tool for a DYI person back when the cheapest MIGs were in the $1k range but I can do everything that it does and then some with the new MIG. Make sure you get one that is setup for dual wire (flux core and gas). You will need to rent/purchase a 75/25 bottle for the gas but there is SOOO much less to grind using the gas. Flux core still has slag to knock off plus the welds are larger(or at least mine are) where as using gas you make much smaller beads (I use .23 wire for sheetmetal)