Replacing Camshaft Position Sensor on '95 3.8L V6

nikbait

New Member
Nov 4, 2006
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Kuna, ID
Hey all. I have had my check engine light come on for the 4th time with code 0340, camshaft position sensor fault. I've looked in my Chilton's manual on how to replace this, but it looks like a pain in the butt. Has anyone here removed/replaced this sensor, and if so, how easy/hard was it to do??? There's something about alignment of the stator, whatever that is. Says that if that is not properly aligned, it could cause the fuel system to be out of time with the engine, causing engine damage. HELP!!!!!!!!!!

tammy
 
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I just got that code too and will be changing it myself. Getting to it lookes very easy, will check with my Haynes manual about the alignment. But it''s looks like it's just plug and play so far.

Hmm, give me 5 min and I'll check with my manual.
 
Hm, since you will only be chaning the sensor (like me) it's not necessary to adjust anything. You only have to adjust if you remove the whole synchronizer assemly ;)

So it still looks like unbolt, take off the sensor, put the new sensor on, and bolt on.
 
Turns out the part I bought from the parts store is the WRONG part for my car. The sensor on my car has something on the top that says Caution:Not adjustable, where as the part that I bought is too small and doesn't have those words on the top. Dang it! This sux. The picture in my manual has the part that I bought in it as the part for the 3.8L, BUT, the sensor in my car IS NOT that sensor that I bought!!! How crazy is that...unless Chilton's got it all screwy and so does every parts store here in town...dumb dumb. Soo, I have to wait til tomorrow and order the correct part from the dealer. This bites.
 
got to make this quick got to go to work...
theres two parts to a cam sensor the cover and syncro what happens is the cover
falls apart inside and tears it all up so you end up having to replace the entire cam sensor which needs a tool to be properly aligned with the engine at t.d.c.
(top dead center).... 90% of the time the unit has to be replaced but occasionally
you can get by just replacing the cover from ford only..there are two 5.5m bolts
to remove look inside there will be a slot in the side of the metal housing when you pull the cover off...if the tab that rides on the inside of the window is bent
the whole thing needs to be replaced...be back later..
 
yes they can. they also get a rotational noise sounding like a belt.
if you pull the cover off and spray wd40 right inside the noise will go away atleast long enough to say (holy **** thats it)..
sometimes you will get a check engine light, sometimes you dont.
if you do have a check engine light on while driving the code will be po340.
 
Thanks guys. I think I've just figured out that I am taking my car into the local Ford dealer and having them deal with it. Its only $185 to have them do this. I'd rather they do it, as they are professionals and not mess anything up in my fuel timing. I KNEW that when I read thru my Chilton's manual that there was something about what they were saying about the fuel timing....the idiot at the parts store even looked thru my manual and was like duh..what do they need to do that for??....DUH you idiot!! If that sensor gets messed up and the timing gets messed up, the whole engine could be damaged!! SOOO, I think leaving it up to professionals is going to be a better thing.
The thing is, my car has thrown the 0340 code like 4 times now...so I figured just replace the damn thing and get it over with.
 
Yeah. The guy told me like it was 183. something + tax so I'm betting its like going to be closer to 200. But yeah, he said parts and labor:) I am taking it to a Ford dealer that I've taken it to before, and they've been really pretty reasonable.
 
Labor shouldn't be too bad for that, and if you're getting the whole synchronizer its about $81. Other than that, it's just putting the 1 piston at 26* after TDC and that tool 2muchtime was talking about to align the synchronizer. Probably take them an hour at most.

I'm having to do the same thing. I'm getting a rich code(P0172 and P0175) and a bad csp code so I'm hoping the csp will fix the problem ;) It'll probably take me all day because I remove 1 bolt and take a 3 hour break ;)
 
I hope this is the answer to my fuel economy problems. I've noticed that my fuel economy has gone down, even after a fuel injection service and numerous fuel injector cleaners thru the fuel system.
I just didn't want the car to get messed up any more than it is, cuz we have spent enough money on this car believe me, that is why we are having the dealer do it. It looks complicated to do with the syncronization and stuff.
 
I switched out my sensor this afternoon. Took about 20 minutes. It's only a pain if you need to change out the whole assembly.

P0340 went away as did P1407 (egr problem). I'm still getting rich codes (P0172 and P0175) so I'm going to test my O2 sensors, check for leaks or blockage in the intake system, clean/check the maf and iat, and compression tests. I think it could also be a bad fuel pump or regulator or something, but the other stuff is easier to get to ;)
 
your on the right track a.p. i would clean the maf first drive it aroung for a while to see what comes back for codes. commonly its either that or oxygen sensors,
or egr ports blocked..good luck
 
My daughter has a 95 that I was changing the cam sensor out on this weekend, and I ran into the same problem that Nicbait did. The parts store gave us the wrong sensor. The one on the car has "Non-Adjustable" on the cover and is larger than the one that is listed for a 95.

There must have been a sensor change during the 95 model year. Does anyone know if maybe a 94 or 96 uses the same type of larger sensor....?
 
What should I clean the MAF with?

I did a compression test, and although they were a tad high (175-180) they were all consistant so no blown head gaskets or anything :dance:

if you havent already cleaned the maf, clean it with rubbing alcohol and a kids
cheap paint brush. dip the brush in alc; wipe the wires gently, reinstall..