Missing vacuum line?.............

[Gr0und_Fault]

I have been having a high idle problem for some time now. I just brought my car over to a friends house where I can work on the car. I pulled off the liner inside the passenger fender to get to the charcoal canister and check the vacuum lines. I followed one of the hoses comming from the charcoal canister and it went to the front of the passenger side engine compartment then it stops right there. Where it stops at in the engine compartment, it looks like there is supposed to be another hose connected to it but there isn't, there is just an open end there. Is this hose supposed to be open to atmosphere or is there a hose that is supposed to be hooked up here. I looked all around and I can't find any unconnected hose that looks like it should go there. I hope the pictures help.

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[Gr0und_Fault]

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[2muchtime]

is the check engine light on, or been on recently?
if you had a vaccum leak there you would get a code for evap.
there are vents in the evap system coming out of the charcoal canister..
your pics are really hard to see.
are you just checking vaccum lines because of a high idle?
how high is it idling?
occasionally, when first started, all the time??
have you checked your i.a.c. valve for sticking?

 

[gunmetal5.0]

Have you tried plugging it to see what happens? I think that's the first thing I would do.

 

[2muchtime]

put your finger over it does have any vaccum?
if not leave it alone.

 

[Gr0und_Fault]

Sorry about how hard it is to see the photos. They were taken with my cellphone.

- The check engine light is not on.
- Scanned the codes anyway with the OBDII scan tool and found no codes.
- If there are vents on top of the charcoal canister, these hoses may be leading to the vents and routed to the engine compartment for some reason. Why, I don't know. I was wondering if anyone elses Mustang was the same way. I did try to plug it while the car was at idle. No change in idle speed and there was no vacuum at that point either. I will try to take a better photo later.
- Yes, I am checking the vacuum lines because of a high idle problem. My current idle is about 2.5K when I start the car, then it goes up to about 3K after a minute or two and stays there.
- I have checked the IAC for a sticking valve. I even went as far as to replace it. That did not fix the problem either.

 

[2muchtime]

i will reply later.. this is going to be long.. are you mechanically inclined??

 

[Gr0und_Fault]

i will reply later.. this is going to be long.. are you mechanically inclined??

Yep, for the most part. I have never taken apart a whole engine and rebuilt it back up before. Pretty much anything other than that I should be able to do on my own.

 

[2muchtime]

first thing.. car off. manually check for binding at the throttle body..does the throttle open and (close fully) and smoothly by hand...yes?..then..
remove the throttle position sensor plug while its idling and tell me what exactly happened..after that do the same thing with the mass air flow..disconnect the plug while its running and tell me exactly.. you know if it stalled or idle jumped, lowered, surged,stalled or ran perfect. this may cause a check engine light,
ignore the codes that come up.. you will need to clear them with a scanner..

 

[2muchtime]

make sure you got the air ducting out of the way so you can visually see the butterfly fully closing..there should be no gap.. and if its really gummed up clean it with a little rubbing achohol, an old tooth brush, and a paper towel..

oh and check for tension when releasing the throttle from full open it should snap closed with some force..

 

[MustangLX-5.0]

OK.Am finally back.i'm looking into this as of now.Havn't been on SN in awhile and forgot I posted something long ago.friggin job takes up so much of my time.

It's possible the TPS is faulty.Check the TPS by connecting a multimeter (set to measure DC volts) to the backside of the electrical connector plugged into the TPS.Your going to back probe 2 wires.Do this carefully to avoid damaging a wire.The black (ground) probe you want connected to the grey/red wire and the red probe connect to the grey/white wire.Leave the sensor connected to the harness.Turn the key on but don't start the car.The voltage should be around 0.5 - 1.0 volts at idle position.Move the throttle plate slowly till it's WOT.The voltage should increase as you do this up to around 4 - 5 volts.Anything much higher than 1 volt at idle position and the sensor is faulty.Also,move the red probe connected to the center wire...over to the brown/white wire.The voltage at this terminal should be 5 volts.This is your refference voltage from the PCM.The center wire is the signal wire.If the refference voltage is more than 0.5 V over then you most likely have an issue with the PCM.

Dumb thought.........most likely checked....the idle stop screw.Now who would miss something like that?? Hmm