rearend shaking

[badmustang]

Hello,

I have a 1969 351-w During some commutes out of and into rotterdam
the rear end of my ford shakes when slowly starting from a stopped
position. This usually happens when I have been in stop and go traffic
for an unusually long period of time. Giving it more gas help.

I find a shuddering throughout the whole car when trying to slip the
clutch at low revs when creeping in traffic which I assumed was the clutch
overheating a bit.



This has been happening for several year now. The back end shudder
is quite unnerving.

i have new motormounts transmission mounts
new flywheel and a ram powergrip clutch set
but the car still shackes from the back

pleas helppp


Thanks

jay from (the netherlands).

 

[gunmetal5.0]

Hi Jay. Sorry to hear you're having troubles. When I started experiencing something similar to this it was because it needed new U joints. So I replaced these and put a new seal on the tail of the tranny and it solved the vibration issue. U joints are about 10 dollars a piece and are easy to replace. Good luck.

 

[CraigMBA]

I had that problem and got rid of it by getting rid of my Z bar setup and going to a cable clutch.

As soon as the engine would torque over it would realign the Z bar and all hell would break loose.

It wouldn't do it in reverse. Only in forward. Towards the end, I just started winding the motor to 1500 RPM and dumping the clutch from a standstill.

Anyway, I have a stiffer clutch now than I did before and I can cycle the pedal with my hand - it's that soft. Totally effortless to drive the car.

 

[badmustang]

okee i will try the u-joint and see if the car does shake in reverse..

 

[badmustang]

I had that problem and got rid of it by getting rid of my Z bar setup and going to a cable clutch.

As soon as the engine would torque over it would realign the Z bar and all hell would break loose.

It wouldn't do it in reverse. Only in forward. Towards the end, I just started winding the motor to 1500 RPM and dumping the clutch from a standstill.

Anyway, I have a stiffer clutch now than I did before and I can cycle the pedal with my hand - it's that soft. Totally effortless to drive the car.

yes i have the z-bar and a toploader from 1969 a 351-w
are ther cable setups availeble for me..
can't find them on google..
me be that some one know a shop for me

thanks jay

 

[CraigMBA]

http://moderndriveline.com/catalog/clutch_cables.htm

It's easier if you've already got a T-5 or a Tremec. You might get somebody else to drive the car in the driveway and release the clutch while you observe with the hood up. I COULD of fixed mine, but I wanted a cable clutch anyway and already had the right bellhousing and just changed it.

 

[badmustang]

found this

http://www.mustangsunlimited.com/itemdy00.asp?T1=1001HYD+01

but verry expensive is hydraulic not a cable

 

[66bluepony]

Shake

Most likely is a clutch disc.

 

[MustangMatt1966]

i had the same problem, turned out that the flywheel had hot spots and cracks in it...got it re-surfaced and have never had the problem again..might want to check that out

 

[badmustang]

i had the same problem, turned out that the flywheel had hot spots and cracks in it...got it re-surfaced and have never had the problem again..might want to check that out

have a brand new flywheel centerforce aluminium and a brand new ram power grip clutch set..

also new motor mounts and gearbox mounts


there are no good mustang shop here in the neterlands..

the car is shaking in revere and first gear.. (low drive a way rmp)
with more rpm de car does not shake.. the dash is going up and down
it looks live i want to drive away with the parkingbraks on

but on the hiway the car drives smooth

 

[gunmetal5.0]

I already had a cable setup and know that my clutch was good so I still am curious to see if the u joint is the problem for you.

 

[CraigMBA]

Me too. OP's problem isn't clutch linkage, which was my problem. In reverse, the linkage doesn't "readjust". I knew mine was because in reverse the engine mount loads against itself, in forward the engine would torque over and all hell would break loose. I quick fabed up a limiting strap and it fixed my chatter. Short of putting a motor plate in, I just punted and bought the cable setup.

 

[fasttback]

Me too. OP's problem isn't clutch linkage, which was my problem. In reverse, the linkage doesn't "readjust". I knew mine was because in reverse the engine mount loads against itself, in forward the engine would torque over and all hell would break loose. I quick fabed up a limiting strap and it fixed my chatter. Short of putting a motor plate in, I just punted and bought the cable setup.

If your clutch linkage is going out-of-wack from torque...it's time to 1) start checking motor and tranny mounts, 2) running a bolt through your motor mounts, 3) limiting strap or chain (like you did) 3) maybe even solid mounts. Your old clutch linkage may have been worn making things worse, but a properly setup z-bar linkage will work until it bends or wears out.

About the tread...if it's not u-joints, sounds like clutch chatter. Might look at the pressure plate, flywheel, and clutch (sounds like they are brand new). Also check for oil getting on the disc. Eliminate the easy stuff, then tackle the clutch, PP, flywheel. Good luck!

 

[gunmetal5.0]

I say start with U joints so that he can rule that out and move to the more in depth possibilities that have been mentioned by you folks. U joints are ten dollars a piece, easy to install and on a car that old it just can't hurt to have new ones either way. Much luck.

 

[CraigMBA]

If your clutch linkage is going out-of-wack from torque...it's time to 1) start checking motor and tranny mounts, 2) running a bolt through your motor mounts, 3) limiting strap or chain (like you did) 3) maybe even solid mounts. Your old clutch linkage may have been worn making things worse, but a properly setup z-bar linkage will work until it bends or wears out.

About the tread...if it's not u-joints, sounds like clutch chatter. Might look at the pressure plate, flywheel, and clutch (sounds like they are brand new). Also check for oil getting on the disc. Eliminate the easy stuff, then tackle the clutch, PP, flywheel. Good luck!

It was all new parts!

New 66 style motor mounts so the JBA headers would clear.

Car was a automatic before, the only used parts where the pedals.

New clutch, flywheel, pressureplate.

New trans mount. New Z bar.

NEW NEW NEW.

In retrospect, JBA sells a Z bar now to clear the headers which might of fixed it (I had to 'modify' mine to get it to fit).

There were some other problems the cable clutch fixed. Much less chassis vibration, plus when I rebuilt the T-5 I forgot to install the clipon the speedo gear that key's it to the output shaft . My car got a trans swap and a new clutch twice in about 2000 miles.

 

[badmustang]

Have you replaced the pilot shaft bushing in the rear of the crankshaft? If it has play, the clutch will get off center and then it will shudder like crazy. Same issue if the input shaft bearing in the tranny or even the throwout bearing is off center a bit. Zbar linkage if really worn can cause issues but not as likely. If clutch was adjusted too tight, the first push of the pedal can ruin it (even brand new clutch) and cause the issue also. Only cure is new clutch.

Another thing is if the bellhousing does not center the tranny perfectly with th ecrankshaft. You can check with a dial indicator. I know problems like that are really frustrating.
If everything checks out OK, a diaphragm type pressure plate is your best bet for smooth operation.

Also for the decelleration shudder, be sure the I.D. of the drive shaft yoke is lubricated where it stabs into the back of the tranny. There is a bushing back there inside the trans and if it gets worn, it can cause a shudder as you describe. Be sure the drive shaft yoke slides freely in the tranny and does not have excessive play. It should slide easy but have NO side play.

Look on my web page under the TECH articles for adding a cable clutch to a scattershield.

 

[badmustang]

that was a e-mail from steve wilkes...

 

[dennis112]

Are you sure you have the correct input shaft for your motor? SBF is longer than a BBF. If you have a BBF tranny behind a SBF, you will have similiar problems.

I realize that you said your tranny was from a 351w, but it is to the point that we are grasping at straws.

View attachment 391921

 

[badmustang]

okee but if i have a bbf tranny is it possible to change it and make it driveble
for my car..
do i then have to change only the input shaft..

 

[badmustang]

don't the big block tranny have a 31 spline output...
or is the out put shaft og a small block tranny the same as a big block one?