Yeah it's not that hard at all. Besides the wheel I believe there are 4 bolts total holding the caliper to the rotor, maybe even 2...can't remember it's been awhile. Anyways, it's not that involved of a process.
1) Loosen lugs
2) Jack up the corner of car w/ wheel you are working on
3) Remove lugs/wheel
4) Get
Hex Key that fits hole or if it's too gunked over like mine was use a socket and possibly a breaker bar
5) Lift caliper off and hang it on some spot in fenderwell or get a bucket that is tall enough to set the caliper on without stretching the brake line.
6) Remove old pads
7) Use C-clamp to compress pad...if you are doing the rear pads you'll have to either buy the special tool for turning them "in" or just use a needlenose pliars like we did, hold it
like this, place the tips in the holes on the circular portion that does the actual moving, and turn it so it moves in. Can't remember if you turn it clockwise or counterclock wise.
8) Lube up the pads well but make sure you don't get any lube on the pad face or the rotor
9) Put pads in
10) Reverse the entire process
I just found a few pics on my photobucket album that I took during one of my pad ordeals so I'll try get those photoshopped to help you a bit.
Here...The 2 YELLOW lines I drew on the caliper itself are where the bolts that hold it in place should be. Obviously they're on the inside of the wheel well so if they are seized on there they are a ***** to get off. I had to use a breaker bar and dinged my hands up pretty well because the several MN winters the car had seen did a nice job of rusting and corroding everything. Most of that stuff has since been changed...just looking at it makes me cringe. Anyways! If the pads you buy come with a backer plate to put on the pads make sure you seat it on the pad well otherwise it can pop off like I underlined in YELLOW on the picture. It popped out somehow and started rubbing on the rotor so now my rotor has a nice little wear-indent from the damn thing. I eventually just took them all off and used a buttload of brake lube instead because the other side did it as well. The RED part is where you can usually find a good spot to hang the caliper, otherwise like I said just use a bucket or something to set it on without stretching the line. The rears are pretty much the exact same process as far as I remember except for the whole turning the caliper to compress it rather than using a c-clamp. Sometimes there is a metal piece that is on the top of the caliper that pops out and is kind of a pain to put back in so do your best to not let it pop out...it's the shinier piece pictured
here that has the hole in the middle of it. I THINK that covers almost everything, any other questions should be easily answerable.
