Dumping money, what would YOU do?

dmontzsta

Founding Member
Aug 6, 2001
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I have learned from other cars/projects in the past. You can really lose your ass if you are modding something that does not have the potential to do what you want.

I have been thinking, since I am finishing one project and getting ready to work on my Mustang in the next few months...

Is it worth going all out on a 99 GT? or would I be better off buying an 03/04 Cobra? or Mach1.

What do you think? I am just trying to nip this one off before it gets too crazy.

All input would be much appreciated.

Thanks.
 
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What are your goals?

That is a good question. :)

I started thinking today, how damn fast these new cars are. Thinking of a 300C SRT8 BOAT of a car being able to stomp me out had me upset. Also, the new EVO's and STI's.

My ultimate goal is to keep it mostly streetable, but in the mid 12s would be nice. And of course, handle and brake well.
 
If that's seriously all you're after, then simply save up and spend your money in a very purposeful manner. Buy a supercharger, suspension and brake upgrades and then relearn to drive the car. You will now have a mid twelve second car that can handle decently and stop fairly well.

Although there's far more to the car than just those three categorized things, it should at least be centered around those goals. It would be the cheapest, least amount of effort, instant gratification route to your temporary satisfaction.
 
If that's seriously all you're after, then simply save up and spend your money in a very purposeful manner. Buy a supercharger, suspension and brake upgrades and then relearn to drive the car. You will now have a mid twelve second car that can handle decently and stop fairly well.

Although there's far more to the car than just those three categorized things, it should at least be centered around those goals. It would be the cheapest, least amount of effort, instant gratification route to your temporary satisfaction.

Thanks for the post. You know how us guys get to thinking...

I was thinking maybe a Cobra was the easy route, but then of course I am coming out of pocket again and my GT is paid for.

I am just sick of going all out on projects, only to upgrade and lose my tail end because they weren't meant to do what I want. :)

How much HP/TQ can a stock block handle?

I am guessing it is going to take around 450whp to get mid 12s?
 
The block will be able to handle quite a bit. It's the wonderful rods that we have that you have to be worried about. The hypercraptastic rods will give out around the accepted range of 400rwhp. Granted there are those who push much further than that and are just fine. Then there are those to throw a rod on less. So that's your safety benchmark that is generally used at the rule of thumb.

There are pro's and con's to getting a cobra in your situation. You will have a car that out of the box is capable of 12's, handles well and can stop when you want it to. How ever, it is a pig (heavy) and will cost you way more money than getting the GT up to that plateau.

Your GT is paid off, I'd say stick with that. It's far more efficient money wise and won't take up much of your time to attain a goal such as that.

edit: Oh, and you could get into the 12's with much, much, much less than 450rwhp. It all depends on you and what steps you're willing to take. There has been a 360rwhp N/A GT in the 10's and plenty of 250-270rwhp GT's in the high 12's, N/A. Check out modular depot(dot)com for more info.

Sorry, apparently typing out modular depot's website address is censored on stangnet.
 
The block will be able to handle quite a bit. It's the wonderful rods that we have that you have to be worried about. The hypercraptastic rods will give out around the accepted range of 400rwhp. Granted there are those who push much further than that and are just fine. Then there are those to throw a rod on less. So that's your safety benchmark that is generally used at the rule of thumb.

There are pro's and con's to getting a cobra in your situation. You will have a car that out of the box is capable of 12's, handles well and can stop when you want it to. How ever, it is a pig (heavy) and will cost you way more money than getting the GT up to that plateau.

Your GT is paid off, I'd say stick with that. It's far more efficient money wise and won't take up much of your time to attain a goal such as that.

edit: Oh, and you could get into the 12's with much, much, much less than 450rwhp. It all depends on you and what steps you're willing to take. There has been a 360rwhp N/A GT in the 10's and plenty of 250-270rwhp GT's in the high 12's, N/A. Check out ************(dot)com for more info.

Thanks again for the info. My engine has 130k on it right now, that is another reason I was considering getting the Cobra. I totally forgot about how heavy they are though.

I used to really be in to this car stuff, but these damn boats have made me fall out of the picture and I feel like a newbie again. :)

The thing to do now is, maybe Mac Long Tubes, Mac Catted Pro Chamber and Mac Tail Pipes I guess, since it is the easiest and cheapest bang for the buck. My GT already has a Pro5.0 shifter and FMS KC Clutch. What trans do these have? Is it the T65? or 3650? gosh I am lost, I cant believe I forgot about all this stuff, too much going on I guess. I wanted to ask how strong the trans is basically?

Another thing to start looking forward to is maybe get another engine on the stand and ready. Is there a good aftermarket rod to replace the stocker?
 
1999 GT had a T45 transmission. As long as it still engages correctly and the clutch still grabs, you're good to go. 130k is just fine for your car as long as it wasn't an abused 130k. If you're concerned about it, you can get any decent forged set-up and it'll be able to withstand way more abuse than your stock rods. If you're planning on staying N/A, consider weight reduction mods. Not to the point where you're driving a gutted car but, you can tastefully put the car on a diet and effectively make it a faster car without increasing it's power output.

If you want to say the hell with it and get a real block, check out vtengines.com or modularpowerhouse.com.
 
1999 GT had a T45 transmission. As long as it still engages correctly and the clutch still grabs, you're good to go. 130k is just fine for your car as long as it wasn't an abused 130k. If you're concerned about it, you can get any decent forged set-up and it'll be able to withstand way more abuse than your stock rods. If you're planning on staying N/A, consider weight reduction mods. Not to the point where you're driving a gutted car but, you can tastefully put the car on a diet and effectively make it a faster car without increasing it's power output.

If you want to say the hell with it and get a real block, check out vtengines.com or modularpowerhouse.com.

Thanks, you have been a big help and kept me occupied tonight. :)

I was actually checking out the VT blocks and they seem like a great deal. Especially considering the amount of money I just dropped on a BBF.

Do you know of a good site or thread in regards to weight reduction? I am VERY hesitant about it, cause as you said I dont want to drive a gutted car AND I like comforts (If that word even belongs with a Mustang) but I think you are with me. :)
 

No problem, you have been a huge help, thanks again! I hope to see you around. :flag:
 
Definatly the best way to go is to modify your current GT.

The biggest step is that it is allready paid off, you cant ask for a better platform than that unless it was free, lol.

Like RedFire said, it takes incredibly less than 450rwhp to get into the 12's with a GT. There are guys on here going 12.9's with just intake/exhaust/gears/drag radials and minor suspension work... with really only around 245-250 rwhp.