Installed manual fan switch...now I have a question!

fastfive0

"Your girl likes my stang better"
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Mar 1, 1999
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Ok wired a manny fan switch up for a cooling issue. Works great and solved the problem. But after say 15 minutes of driving the light in my switch goes out but my fan still stays on. I wired it up as per the diagram on allmustangs.com its a straight hardwire with a fuse in between no relays like the one in the faq.


Any ideas?


tia
george
 
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George, Paul's thoughts were the same as mine.

Also confirm you connected to the correct pin on the CCRM (14 for low, 17 for high). Both are on the control side of the fan relay and only draw about 250 mA (.25 amps). The switch should be able to handle this.
 
yea i wired up pin 17 green with a purple stipe if I remember right. I spliced into it and sent that wire to the switch and ran a ground to the opposite side of the rocker switch. I also put an inline fuse in. I just can't figure out if there is a problem or not. Why would the light go out in the rocker? Since it gets its power from the wire @pin 17 is the computer shutting down the fan? Also why on stangnet does it say to wire in two bosch relays for a manual fan switch?


George
 
George, you're not the first that has had issues with attempting to use a lighted rocker on Pin 17. This is why you generally see folks use an LED Biased across the fan terminals (power and ground) instead. Why the rocker switch has issues, I know not. I never supplied power to mine.

Also, please post where you saw the talk of using two relays. This would be for someone circumventing the stock relays in the CCRM. Slantman has diagrams for doing this, for instance. It'd be nice to clear up any confusion for ya.

Good luck.
 
here is the link to the fan switch in the FAQ http://forums.stangnet.com/showpost.php?p=6462743&postcount=13

the fan stays on even when the light from the rocker goes out so i dont understand whats going on.


Thanks hiss'n


george

George, thank you for the link. I admit to not having opened that thread in a long time (it's not dial-up friendly). Some of those diagrams look a lot the one onSlantman's site.

Ok, the reason for that method (as far as I can tell) is that it is a stand-alone method in case an OEM relay has failed. And it allows one to use one switch for both fan speeds (because you can now switch 12 volts to energize both relays). It would simply be another way of doing things. However, one would lose the OEM fan control. I personally think it's much better to leave the OEM wiring intact and simply have an additional relay trigger.