Rear Suspension

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Is this intended for drag racing only. The reason I ask is because those short upper links don't look like they'll allow much of a differential in suspension compression from side to side, before they'll bind.

There's also the problem inherent in the Panhard bar, that it will behave differently one side to the other.

It also looks like this kit will cause a pretty large amount of lowering, just by eyeballing the radius where the bracket will weld onto the axle tube and also how the front bracket will match up with the existing front spring eye mounting point.

I'm not saying that a binding four link will handle worse than the factory leaf spring design. And lots of people are using Panhard bars in serious open track combos. Also, I'm all in favor of lowering, except you've got to stop at the point where the axle tubes are whacking against the bump stops all the time. I went beyond that point with my '65 and it was not good.
 
I have been doing a lot of research on rear suspensions myself lately as I plan to upgrade my own soon. This is what I have found by talking to the different makers and installers around the country. The 4 link in the pic is a great street setup. it will improve street manners as well as handle better than the stock setup but has some short commings when it comes to performance. As mentioned before the panard bar is just not up to the performace of a watts link. Now keep in mind you would have to be into some pretty serious cornering before you would know the differents. The ride of the 4 link is much better than the stock set up. The biggest knock against it is the straight line accel & decel traction. I spoke with the guys at Autoworks international as they install and sell many different brands and build some killer stangs. They don't even hesitate one second before recommending the RRS 3-link. They have put on the Total control rocker arm system and said there was know comparision between performance. The RRS won hands down.

I guess it all comes down to how you are going to use the car. I have RRS struts & rack on my car now and hve been very impressed with the quality and service. I know the stuff is a little pricey but I only plan on buying it once.
 
If you want a balls out rear suspension buy the Griggs, the RRS, or the torque arm from TCI and the non laydown coil spring package.

Rennmachine has used this one (which I think is Heidt's) on a couple of customers cars with good effect. It's not perfect but it's a big step up over stock.

Renn made a comment that, while far from perfect, you could install this and actually enjoy your car rather than argue about what's wrong with it (and from a purist road racing type deal, it's far from perfect).

I've probablly been hanging around Corner Carvers too long, but I'll just say it anyway. These Mustangs are 40 or so year old cars. Technology has changed a little bit since these came out. If you want your Mustang to handle like an M3, find somebody with an M3 and swap him.

I planned to do some OT events with my car, but I've decided now that I'll have too much money into it to wad it up and worse, I know it will be slow. I'm doing the only sane thing I can. I'm building a Spec E30 BMW and run the NASA series, a car that I won't cry about if I wad up.
 
That's certainly a good point. I think a lot of these higher ends suspensions, while good for racing and whatnot, provide more of a cool factor for our road cars. Unfortunately, a lot of us don't have the money to pay for that cool factor. I think I'll settle on the Heidt's rear end and maybe the TCP coilovers up front, don't know yet. I'm looking for that protouring look, but unfortunately I'm just graduating college so it'll have to wait, haha.
 
Correct me if I'm wrong here but the front end suspension geometry of the classic Mustangs is quite excelent. Also, there is a LOT that can be done with leaf springs and a solid rear axle to make these cars handle like you wouldn't believe around corners. I don't know why everyone goes to these coil over front end setups. I understand switching out to a 4-link but not if you are just driving the car on the street....
 
rusty67 is right. i am a bit surprised that historic hasnt responded yet. with a little work, and the right changes in suspension geometry our vintage cars can upstage the modern cars in most driving regimes. most of the work has been done on the front suspension, and it is pretty well worked out. the rear suspension is where the mustangs will get the most improvement in handling these days. the four link suspension shown has a few problems with its geometry that can be offset with the right parts. most notably spherical bearings at the suspension pivot points. the panhard bar is not a problem until you get into the 10/10ths area of driving. at that point a watts linkage will be slightly better only because the axle stays in the same geometric location. remember that the longer the panhard bar, the less the arc the axle moves in.
 
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Anybody used this set up? I am thinking about using this for my 1968 Fastback but I was wanting some opinions on how it handles. Anything will help, thanks!

What are you planning on doing with the car? This setup is for more of a drag car and even at that the upper links are still too short for optimal performance. For more of a road race suspemsion you are looking for a 3-link with a panhard/watts setup.

Jason
 
This is for my Eleanor street car. I wanted something that would handle well on the street where i wouldnt have the dragging of the butt and rubbing on the tires on turns. I want something where I dont worry about rubbing and it will handle great. I been seriously thinking about the RRS system but wasnt sure.
 
for the street it is real hard to beat the leaf spring suspension. get a stiffer rear spring and a 3/4" rear bar to go with a 1" front bar, and get the wheel backspacing and size right along with a proper tire size, and rubbing should not be a problem.
 
Has anyone taken a foxbody 8.8 and fabricated torque boxes for the control arms?
Sorry, I don't get around on the internet too much . . . :D

the upper links are still too short for optimal performance.

Optimal performance for what?

My only question would be why the control arms aren't adjustable?

that and why there are not any different pivot points. If you wanted to change instant center, it looks like you could only do that by moving the upper arms up one notch on the rear end. At that point it would be back in the car but very low. I would rather drop the lower arm down on the rear end.
 
griggs racing has new brackets that you can weld onto the 8.8 rear end to install a torque arm suspension in the early mustangs. it is part of their gr-350 rear suspension system. i dont recall any changes to the front leaf spring mount as it is adequate in stock form.
 
I wouldn't go for it. As others have indicated a 3-link is the way to go (or just setup your leaf rear-end right for the street).

I wouldn't spend the extra $$ on a watts unless you just really want one. I've driven serious autocross cars on brand-new race rubber and as long as they're setup right, you won't be able to tell a difference. On the street it'll even be less of an issue as you're not going to see the same kind of G forces.

Just trying to save you some $$.
 
ok.. as far as the axle moving with a pan hard.... it doesn't move that much

say you have 6" of travel, 3" of movement either up or down.

now say your pan hard bar is 3.5' long

if you do the math it only moves 4.1 degrees, making the position of the axle move laterally about 0.07"

that's a little more than 1/16" ........... not too bad.

I'm not 100% sure on this, but I believe the real advantage to a watts link is that it controls the rear roll center of the car, while the pan hard bar does not.
 
Global West

I been thinking about installing the Global West set up. New coilover son the front and then new leaf springs with new bushings on the back. The rear end has been narrowed so the tires fit perfectly in the wheel wel in the car already. I just wants a smoother ride, thanks for the info guys!