HELP!!! CAR WONT START!!!

babybudistmonk

New Member
Apr 24, 2005
70
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Rockford, MI
Hey guys...

I just went to start my 93 2.3l mustang and its wont start. The starter turns the engine like usual and its getting gas because I can smell it come out of the tail pipe as its cranking. The only thing i can think of is that there is no spark and I was wondering if you guys know what might be wrong.

Help please!!!
 
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Sound like it still has compression?

They sell tools out there to check spark...sounds to me like something in the distributor kicked the bucket, either the PIP or the TFI module. Had the same thing happen when I first put the new engine in my Bird, it cranked and cranked and wouldn't start. Swapped to my old distributor that I knew was still good and it fired right up.

If you check it and no spark, pull the distributor, check the drive gear.
 
the 93's dont have a distributor. they have D.I.S. try and swap your coils, due to the fact 1 coil is for actual firing and the other just burns excess fuel on the down stroke. it'll run like ****, if it starts, but then you know your problem. if not just bust out with the old trusty multimeter and go to town.
I highly recommend a Chiltons manual when it comes to finding D.I.S. bugs.
 
I just tried switching the coils, but the wiring harness didn't give me enough slack to connect the rear coil plug to the front, and there is another connector that goes to the front coil and theres no where to plug it in to the back.

I tried to connect them the best i could, but still no change

I also noticed that when I turn the key to the on position, I cant hear the fuel pump kicking on.

any ideas?
 
Thanks for your help guys! I got it running...

after I tried switching the coils and it didn't work, i think the conncetions may have been corroded and got scratched enough to make a connection again cuz as soon as I plugged everything back in where they need to go, it fired right up.

Thanks for all your help!
 
Plugging in the coils in reverse is the whole point of swapping their position...of course the wires won't reach front to back or back to front...you wouldn't want to do it that way anyway.

Why it actually started though is the ignition module cooled down and started working again. It will quit again...
 
The fuel pump should definitely prime when you turn the key from the off position to the on position. Could be a intermittent fault with a fuel pump relay, EEC relay, inertia switch, or something along those lines.
 
ok, stupid question, it should be replaced, but is there a chance it could be something to do with the fuel pump? and if it is the ignition module, then will it once again cool down and work for me for a little bit, or am i totally screwed with that?
 
i've tried looking at that list before, but i haven't been able to test all those things, limited equipment and some of the instructions don't relate to my car.

I have checked a few sites and they say that the fuel pump relay may be the issue. could this be something to look into???

The only reason i ask instead of just replacing it is because its located in a sealed box that mounts to the strut tower on the passenger side and its soldered into it. I've been told that the new box costs around $120, and if thats not the problem, I don't want to waste that much money.

Is there any way to check the relay without having to break into the box?
 
weird...

so i took out the black box that has the fuel pump relay in it and looked it over and scratched my head. I realized that relays usually make a clicking noise if they are working, so i asked my girlfriend to turn the key a couploe times after i put it back in, i then herd that it was getting power and it was working, then i re-checked the schrader valve on the fuel rail and gas came squirting out.

I told her to try and start it and it fired up like a champ and i can hear the fuel pump comming back on again.

does this sound like the relay is slowly dieing on me?