Driveshaft Question

ROCKET-2300

New Member
Nov 20, 2004
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I just got a new 1 piece driveshaft from denny's, and it came with a new rear pinion and nut. What I would like to know is how much do I torque the nut on the new pinion flange? The tech guy from denny's said to just tighten it with a 12" ratchet until my eyes bugged out, but I would rather have a torque spec for piece of mind.
 
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I know a hell of a lot of guys just clean the threads on the nut and pinion very good with brakleen, apply plenty of red loc-tite and torque the nut to 50 ft. lbs. The pinion uses a crush sleeve which is already squashed as much as you want it to be, so you don't want to tighten it any further than 50 ft. lbs. to avoid making the bearing preload too tight. Just do that and you'll be fine. Don't forget the loc-tite or it will come loose.
 
The right way would be to take the axles and the carrier out, install a new crush sleeve. Collaspe the crush sleeve and set your bearing preload, but you can mark the pinion and the pinion nut. Then as you install the new yoke you will need to tight the nut approx. 1/8 to 1/4 past your previous mark. Usually it takes about 150 ft/lbs to collaspe a new crush sleeve. I would also recommend installing a new seal. I guess you will be reusing yours (Crush sleeve)?
 
Thanks for the help:nice:
Yes, I will be reusing the crush sleeve. I bought the driveshaft from dennys, and it was supposed to come with an adapter plate, but they had problems with vibration, so they threw in a new pinion flange instead. I'm not comfortable taking apart the rear diff, so I would just like to put in the replacement flange and be done with it.
 
When I get into these rears I use a new crush sleave, but I know for sure many Ford techs do not. If you have a leaky pinion seal most Ford techs do what I just described. Some will apply more than 50 lbs torque to the nut though. As much as 100 ft lbs torque from talking to different techs.
 
When I get into these rears I use a new crush sleave, but I know for sure many Ford techs do not. If you have a leaky pinion seal most Ford techs do what I just described. Some will apply more than 50 lbs torque to the nut though. As much as 100 ft lbs torque from talking to different techs.

So they use the guttentight scale:D
 
When I rebuilt my motorcycle nearly 2 years ago after bending the rear frame all up(broke my right tibula in the process), I used a torque wrench and the factory specs for every single bolt I removed during the process. Figured with me riding on just 2 wheels unprotected, I was not going to use guess work with anything! 10K miles later, the only retorquing I had to do was on the header bolts(twice due to heat cycling in the first few weeks).

Here is what I dealt with...
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The date on the above picture should be 5/30/05 not 04
Bought a bike off of eBay minus front/rear suspension and engine to rebuild with($1200 shipped to near by freight center-new frame alone was $1400, so I saved quite a few bucks the way I went). Besides, now I know my bike pretty well!
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2 1/2 months later she was put back together.
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Not bad work considering up until the end of June I was still in a cast and on crutches! I was one dedicated man:nice: