UPR K Member kit, any good?

[SilverBullet00]

Hey guys, I have been looking at the UPR K member kit lately and it looks like a pretty good deal. It comes with the k member, control arms, AND the coil over kit for 699. Any one know if this is any good? It would be going on a daily driver- would it hold up?

Im looking to do some heavy suspension mods over the summer to prepare (HOPEFULLY) for a supercharger in the fall. My plans are:

-MM full length SFCs
-Tubular k member
-MM Rear lower control arms
-MM Panhard bar
-Bilsteins

Comments? Suggestions?

 

[san~man]

Im looking to do some heavy suspension mods over the summer to prepare (HOPEFULLY) for a supercharger in the fall. My plans are:

-MM full length SFCs
-Tubular k member
-MM Rear lower control arms
-MM Panhard bar
-Bilsteins

Comments? Suggestions?

It sounds like you're more interested in the twisties than straight line judging by the MM list you posted. If that's so, stay away from the UPR stuff.

Also, if you're planning those MM items, do those first before working on the front (but plan the front if you're set on changing the K). The rear needs the work before you ever get to changing the K.

I've done everything except the T/A in the rear (no C/O for me), and am not even considering changing the K out. Since mine's a DD and only sees regular roads, changing the K isn't worth it to me.

 

[SilverBullet00]

well, I am trying to get the best of both worlds: something that works well at the strip and something that handles the twisties...

My shocks/struts are in need of replacement so the bilsteins will go on first, and ill probably do the LCAs at the same time... maybe even the panhard bar depending on how much cash I have...

 

[SilverBullet00]

bump?

 

[01Steeda]

my friend has one on his fox, but I dont know anyone with a newer stang and a UPR. his works well.

I am about to switch to MM from AJE, not because I dont like it but the HP TT kit uses MM.

 

[SilverBullet00]

yeah, the MM piece looks awesome! Im thinking i would also like a tubular k member to change header gaskets without dropping the factory k.

 

['01 Steed]

I have the UPR kit. I have zero issues with it.

 

[SilverBullet00]

I have the UPR kit. I have zero issues with it.

What was the result of the kit? How did it handle? What is your header clearance like (providing you have long tubes)?

Any pictures ?

 

[Rickey_Bobby]

im pulling over 1G with my UPR... No issues with it yet. It has seen 3 motors so far all over 500hp...

Can't complain one bit about it.

 

['01 Steed]

What was the result of the kit? How did it handle? What is your header clearance like (providing you have long tubes)?

Any pictures ?

I'll tell what....it corners like crazy right now. It's a bit light up front, and with the stock struts (new), it's a bit firm but acceptable to me.

I have Hooker l/t's, and the clearance is great.

 

[SilverBullet00]

I'll tell what....it corners like crazy right now. It's a bit light up front, and with the stock struts (new), it's a bit firm but acceptable to me.

I have Hooker l/t's, and the clearance is great.

Sweet! thanks for the info, man! What other suspension components are you running?

 

['01 Steed]

stock struts, UPR coil overs with 14"-150# springs, UPR control arms (chromoly), and Granatelli weight-jacker lowers out back.

 

[Back2Mustangs]

I don't hear anyone talk about the PA Racing k-members over here, but I'm getting alot of feedback from people I know and from the boards that say the PA Racing is one of the best in quality. I have UPR's 4-bolt CC plates and I dont' see any reason why MM's CC plates would perform better. I know alot of the members on this board swear by MM, and I know they make some of the best stuff, but there are other brands out there with equal quality.

The PA Racing K is $250. You can find coilover kits for under $150 all day long, and then pick out the a-arms you want. I'd probably stick with MM for tubular a-arms on a daily driver. Probably save yourself around a $100.00...

 

[EPIK]

I don't hear anyone talk about the PA Racing k-members over here, but I'm getting alot of feedback from people I know and from the boards that say the PA Racing is one of the best in quality. I have UPR's 4-bolt CC plates and I dont' see any reason why MM's CC plates would perform better. I know alot of the members on this board swear by MM, and I know they make some of the best stuff, but there are other brands out there with equal quality.

The PA Racing K is $250. You can find coilover kits for under $150 all day long, and then pick out the a-arms you want. I'd probably stick with MM for tubular a-arms on a daily driver. Probably save yourself around a $100.00...

From what Ive learned, its usually good to stick with one brand when doing major suspension changes. Ive heard that UPR's stuff is more for drag racing, but Im not sure. Im running MM phb, lca's, front coilovers, c/c plates, bilsteins, & I plan on doing the k member, a arms, torque arm, & rear coilovers one day too. There stuff is A++++ quality, & they have the best customer service that I have ever dealt with. The k member is a great mod because it lightens up the front of your ride substantialy, handles better, plus it gives u alot more access for headers etc...

 

[blckstng96]

i bought the upr kmember kit but havent installed it yet,i was mainly going for a little wight reduction and more so than any CLEARANCE.the pieces of got from upr look awesome,the finish and everything looks great so hopefully it performs the same.from what i hear the only kmember that you want to look at if you want better handling is an MM or GRIGGS,these are the only two companys that actually have diff. geometry built into thier kmembers,everyone else uses stock.all depends on what your going for.

 

[EPIK]

I wanna get the MM one for better handling, geometry, & most definately to shed alot of weight. The MM K member weighs only 36 lbs which is, according to them, 28% lighter than stock, & the a arms weigh only 8 lbs each, compared to the stock 14 lbs each.

 

[forum155pl]

in spokane we have really crappy roads, my UPR holds up just fine.. and i drive the piss out of my car.. no cracks on the welds, nothing wrong with it.. i recomend it

 

[forum155pl]

oh yeah.. and i installed my MAC longtubes without dropping the UPR..

 

[SilverBullet00]

oh yeah.. and i installed my MAC longtubes without dropping the UPR..

Wow, thats quite an accomplishment! I really like MMs stuff but the UPR is a lot cheaper. How do you know what spring rate to go with? Does it matter what you are running out back?



Another questions-
Im going to order the bilsteins soon and I heard that if you lower a 99-04 GT, you should get the 87-93 fox struts / shocks. Any truth to this?

 

[E5 Designs]

Dude one of the major difference that i found with the K-members is the material. Chrome moly is lighter than Regular Steel and so that is why people that drag prob prefer the UPR as it is chrome moly. I would imagine the weight reduction would be nice in any mustang regardless of use. I am planning on throwing a K-member in my 84 along with a total suspension upgrade and that is one of the things that I have found to be a difference in the K-members.