I'm Back !! A new project - Wiring help

[Paul Perreca]

I didnt get another fox - but my best friend nick had a GT laying around his dads shop w/ a 5.0 crate motor in it - i think its the GT 40 motor - but im gonna find out tommorow when we go look at it - This car had been converted to carburated, but it does not run as of now, we are stripping the car and having the motor and trans rebuilt within the month, but the one question i have....

The car was a chop job, all the harnesses are still there and because it doenst run, and never ran right according to its last owner, i don't know what wires i do and dont need - am i going to need a computer at all... I'm def gonna post pictures of this car before and after i paint it, we are going with a nice corvette silver, with black stripes - its going to be gorgeous - but thats nowhere in the near future as we have to get this thing up and running - plus i miss the smartass replies i used to get on here they were great lol waiting for Daggar on this one lol but the car has a Tremek trans, don't know which one yet, but we'll find out - i'm going to need help tuning it cuz i've never worked on a carburated car before and have no idea even the concept - i'm hopin i don't need any wires really cuz that would look great, because when the engines out, i think i might go for the smoothed engine bay look, but nick said he doesnt want it to be a show car he just wants it to run great and look nice - but if i'm workin on it, i can't cut corners on a fox - I miss mine so much and think about it all the time -

Thanks for you help guys

Paul Perreca

 

[Paul Perreca]

noone likes wiring help lol this one should be pretty easy to answer tho, i just don't know cuz i'm an IDIOT lol

 

[jrichker]

Strictly carb means no computer is needed.

A word of warning on EFI to carb swaps: don’t expect to pass emissions in any state that does comprehensive smog inspections, because it won’t happen. You won't get any more power from a carb than you will from EFI.

Doing the swap: You must know how to read electrical diagrams and wire circuits properly to do the swap.

Do not use an EFI in tank fuel pump with a carb. You will never get the pressure/flow regulated properly. Either go full EFI or use a tank/fuel pump/fuel lines out of an 84 or earlier Stang. Fabricating your own setup is possible but there are some snags to overcome.

Do not leave the computer in place in an attempt to control either the electric fuel pump or ignition.

If you try to use your current tank, you will need to pull the fuel pump out and fabricate a pickup tube & strainer sock to replace the fuel pump. Or you can have a sump fabricated and welded onto you existing tank. Many welding shops will not weld fuel tanks because of the dangers involved if the tank isn't purged properly.

You will need an external electric fuel pump unless you change the timing cover for one with the mechanical fuel pump mount on it. Rip all the EFI wiring out, and the computer controlled fuel pump won't work. You will need to add a relay & switch and wire in the existing inertia switch for an external low pressure electric fuel pump. Do not try to wire the fuel pump without the relay. The 15-20 amps the pump pulls will overload the circuit. This will take power away from other items on the same circuit or cause the fuse or fuse link to blow.

You will need to run some new fuel feed lines or braided hose. The 3/8" aluminum tubing works well, but you will need a flaring tool and bending springs to fabricate the lines. Braided hose is easy to run and route, but is much more expensive. It is about $3.50-$4.00 a foot plus the end fittings, which are $3-$4 each. Fabricating hose assembles can be difficult, but anyplace that makes hydraulic hoses can do it for you for an extra charge. See http://www.amazonhose.com for more information.

While you are at the electrical part, you'll need a Durspark or similar ignition system. The 85 Mustang GT 5 speed has a suitable Duraspark distributor with a steel gear compatible with the roller camshaft. The EFI ignition depends on the EFI sensors to advance the spark. Rip out the TPS and MAP/Baro sensors and the computer will have no idea of the proper ignition timing for best performance. Running a fixed timing setting is only for test purposes or for a race track only car. Don't try it on the street: the results will not be nearly as good as a properly setup Durspark or equal. Crane makes a really nice distributor for non-EFI applications. . See http://www.cranecams.com/index.php?show=browseParts&lvl=4&prt=127 for more information.

Some ignition help:
http://www.bronco.com/cms/node/25

For stainless steel braided hose and fittings for automotive use:

See http://store.summitracing.com/egnse...el+hose&searchinresults=false&N=+115&y=6&x=23

http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stor...hall&searchTerm=stainless+steel+hose&x=18&y=4

Any place that can fabricate hydraulic hose assemblies can make the braided stainless steel braided hose assemblies.

www.amazonhose.com

See http://www.aeroquip.com/pages/performance.html for more information on High performance automotive hose products

AN fittings require a 37 degree flaring tool. A standard automotive or household plumbing tool is 45 degrees and cannot be used with AN flare fittings.

See http://www.mscdirect.com/ , http://www.mcmaster.com/ or for the flaring tool you will need . Prices start at $75 and go up

http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/N2DRVSH?PACACHE=000000013509163

http://www.mcmaster.com/ctlg/DisplCtlgPage.aspx?ReqTyp=CATALOG&CtlgPgNbr=2252&term=Flaring

 

[Paul Perreca]

thanks - that fuel pump was most likely overlooked by the amatuer that put in the original motor, and could very well be the reason it never ran right for him... would the car not start up?

 

[Paul Perreca]

I see how the #87 and the #30, but how is the #86 connected to both of them, exactly as it looks ? does the #86 also go to the starter solenoid battery side power?? and number 87 is connected to 30 and 86 right at the juncture just as shown?

 

[jrichker]

I see how the #87 and the #30, but how is the #86 connected to both of them, exactly as it looks ? does the #86 also go to the starter solenoid battery side power?? and number 87 is connected to 30 and 86 right at the juncture just as shown?

30 is fuel pump power in and goes to the fuse and then to the battery side of the starter solenoid

87 is fuel pump power out and goes to the fuel pump. Cut it and splice in the inertia switch if you want the fuel pump to shut off if the car is hit in a collision.

The diode is for surge suppression in case you have some expensive electronics like a stereo, radar detector or monster tach.

86 goes to the red/green wire on the ignition switch or ignition coil. It provides low current power to the relay coil.

85 is connected to chassis ground. Any clean, bare shiny metal will do. Coat it with dielectric grease once the connection is made to prevent rusting.

The fuel pump ground is connected to chassis ground. Any clean, bare shiny metal will do. Coat it with dielectric grease once the connection is made to prevent rusting.

 

[iwashmycar]

hi paul!

 

[Paul Perreca]

hi paul!

whats up haha - sounds good J thanks for the help - i doubt i'll use the inertia switch but the diode, sounds like a good idea and isnt hard at all to just do it right