looks like the Trick Flow twisted wedge heads are a really good buy.
Does it require a special header? It looks different the the Edelbrock heads.
Does it require a special header? It looks different the the Edelbrock heads.
Trying to make head selection
- Thread starter 65fastbackresto
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Does the odd angle of the surface
that the header bolts too cause any issues? It appears to be a different angle then the other heads.
that the header bolts too cause any issues? It appears to be a different angle then the other heads.
Update on head choice
We going with Edelbrock Performers with 190 intake and 160 exh valces, 170cc runners. I dont want to run a huge cam so we backed off on the head size. 600cc combustion chamber. Engine guy said with a standard flat top piston compresion would be way too high.....I dont know.
Want to go a hypertetic piston, anybody have any suggestions?
We going with Edelbrock Performers with 190 intake and 160 exh valces, 170cc runners. I dont want to run a huge cam so we backed off on the head size. 600cc combustion chamber. Engine guy said with a standard flat top piston compresion would be way too high.....I dont know.
Want to go a hypertetic piston, anybody have any suggestions?
SoCalCruising
Founding Member
There are lots of sites you can visit that have compression calculators. Here's one:
http://www.fordmuscle.com/calculators/compression.shtml
Figure this yourself. If you use the following numbers:
Bore: 4.030
Stroke: 3"
Cylinders: 8
Combustion chamber: 60cc
Piston volume: -6cc (typical)
Gasket thickness: .039" (typical)
you get just under 9.5:1, which is not "way too high". If you run a stock-type piston with -4cc valve reliefs, you get about 9.7:1. Still not too high. In fact, with aluminum heads, you want about 10:1 compression. What many guys do to get the compression up is go to a smaller combustion chamber head (58cc), or have the heads decked to reduce the combustion chamber to about 54cc. That raises compression to about 10:1, or slightly higher, with a -6cc piston (typical aftermarket piston).
Hypereutectic is fine for your power level.
http://www.fordmuscle.com/calculators/compression.shtml
Figure this yourself. If you use the following numbers:
Bore: 4.030
Stroke: 3"
Cylinders: 8
Combustion chamber: 60cc
Piston volume: -6cc (typical)
Gasket thickness: .039" (typical)
you get just under 9.5:1, which is not "way too high". If you run a stock-type piston with -4cc valve reliefs, you get about 9.7:1. Still not too high. In fact, with aluminum heads, you want about 10:1 compression. What many guys do to get the compression up is go to a smaller combustion chamber head (58cc), or have the heads decked to reduce the combustion chamber to about 54cc. That raises compression to about 10:1, or slightly higher, with a -6cc piston (typical aftermarket piston).
Hypereutectic is fine for your power level.
Ok Timmy
302 bored 30 over
power plus intake, not sure what brand
builder reccomends 600 cfm carb with manuel secondarys
stage 1 cam, i think 480 lift
headers of some kind, haven`t looked yet at those
C-4 tranny with stage 3 B & M shift kit
8 inch rear with very low gears, not sure what size, but car runs like 85mph wide open now with the 6 banger pushing it.
Car is for tire burning and scratching 2nd gear if possible.
I dont race, but I`ve never had a car with say 300 hp before, think I can get that with a setup like this?
tires are about 10 inches wide
302 bored 30 over
power plus intake, not sure what brand
builder reccomends 600 cfm carb with manuel secondarys
stage 1 cam, i think 480 lift
headers of some kind, haven`t looked yet at those
C-4 tranny with stage 3 B & M shift kit
8 inch rear with very low gears, not sure what size, but car runs like 85mph wide open now with the 6 banger pushing it.
Car is for tire burning and scratching 2nd gear if possible.
I dont race, but I`ve never had a car with say 300 hp before, think I can get that with a setup like this?
tires are about 10 inches wide
SoCalCruising
Founding Member
You can't get a 10" wide tire patch on a 65-66 without metal work. A 225/60-15 or slightly larger will work (you stated somewhere else the desire for 15" rims). If you pop for 16s or 17s, you can upgrade your brakes later on down the line. A 225/55/16 is a nice choice on the larger rim and you can upgrade to a 12" disc brake rotor later. Those tires won't rub and will give you decent traction, but not enough to brake your 8" rearend (on wimpy side).
The Power Plus intake is a Professional Products piece, I believe. They are cheap Edelbrock knock-offs. Personally, I would get a Weiand Stealth intake. Very nice quality and are priced right.
The Power Plus intake is a Professional Products piece, I believe. They are cheap Edelbrock knock-offs. Personally, I would get a Weiand Stealth intake. Very nice quality and are priced right.
I`ve got 17 inch rims
9 and half inches wide, and the tire is just a little wider, I was guessing about it being 10 inches, but I bet its close. The patch is prob close to 9 inches though, you prob right.
You the 2nd guy to recomend the weiand intake, they must be pretty good
Guys in my other post I said I might go 331, I think I`ll save the money on that and buy better components for the motor, good ignition system, good headers, stuff like that. Maybe even a electric fan setup for the rad.
9 and half inches wide, and the tire is just a little wider, I was guessing about it being 10 inches, but I bet its close. The patch is prob close to 9 inches though, you prob right.
You the 2nd guy to recomend the weiand intake, they must be pretty good
Guys in my other post I said I might go 331, I think I`ll save the money on that and buy better components for the motor, good ignition system, good headers, stuff like that. Maybe even a electric fan setup for the rad.
Edelbrock heads are very nice. I also recommend the stealth intake. For that applicaition its hard to be beat... especially compared to a chinese knock off which probably needs to be onced over for casting imperfections. Flat tops are just fine. Just about anything under 10:1 will fun on supreme gas... even the crappy gas we get her in CA. I also suggest going with foraged pistons. Not that there is anything wrong with the hypers but the foraged will stand up to whatever you might want to add whether it be nos, supercharger... anyways they are much better. Power is an addicition, everybody here can attest to wanting more. My TFS heads didnt require special headers on my 5.0, I just have off the shelf BBK shorties. The R series does requre special headers if i do remember correctly though. You also need to decide if you are going with long tubes or shorties. Long tube headers will give you better power and low end torque but can be a pain to install and have to keep an eye out for those pesky speed bumps. In either application though I know they are much more expensive, I suggest getting ceramic coated headers. They will preserve the headers much better than just paint or chrome.
Kevin
Kevin
Cool.
Autozone has the Edelbrock RPM`s with the 1.90 valves for $1087 tax and all. Think this is good way to start my build?
Autozone has the Edelbrock RPM`s with the 1.90 valves for $1087 tax and all. Think this is good way to start my build?
SoCalCruising
Founding Member
I`m prob gonna go the shorty heads
easier to install and my pipe guy can finish it out, he usually puts 18 inch glasspacks on about everything I take him. And yes, everything I take him comes back LOUD, really loud. I like it.
BTW, is the weiand stealth a dual plane intake? I may need it for vacuum help, thinking of camming up a little to fit the head better. Not a huge cam, just a little lopey at idle.
easier to install and my pipe guy can finish it out, he usually puts 18 inch glasspacks on about everything I take him. And yes, everything I take him comes back LOUD, really loud. I like it.
BTW, is the weiand stealth a dual plane intake? I may need it for vacuum help, thinking of camming up a little to fit the head better. Not a huge cam, just a little lopey at idle.
