4.6 Replacement

[PhaidOut]

I am starting to think about replacing the stock 4.6 in my 2001 GT. Ideally, I would like to pull it and drop in another motor. To be honest, I have not learned the 4.6 like I know the 302 so I have some rather basic questions I have searched for answers on but not found....

I am really not looking for a monster motor. I really just want something in the 320-350 HP range that is "Bullitt" Proof (Bad pun I know). I am looking to be N/A. I really don't want to be wrenching on a car all the time anymore because I just don't have the time, I want to be able to drive this thing anywhere without fear - something I can drop in and put 100k "normal" miles on (maybe 50k the way I like to drive). I just want to know I have enough HP under the hood to deal with your average moron in the HP sedan next to me.

If I were to buy a crate motor...

Could I just drop in an 01 Cobra 4V motor without changing a lot of things? I mean would the sensors and all that still be in the same locations and connectible? I am thinking the computer may have to be replaced, at least it would have to be reprogrammed or would it?

How about the new 3V motors?

Or failing in that.... Is anyone making a rock solid dependable "performance" 2V motor suitable for a cross country cruise?

I mean if all else fails, I'll just buy a Cobra - I would prefer to keep MY GT though...

 

[Scorcher2005]

Sell and buy a new car? Possibly just a 99-01 Cobra?

 

[Dragstr05]

If you were looking to buy a longblock from a builder and wanted 350hp, that should be very easily attainable. If you're looking for 350hp to the wheels, you're gonna need some major mods, and it might not be very streetable.

-You could go with a built 4.6 (stock displacement or stroker ->302ci)
-Ported heads, N/A cams
-Longtube headers, with exhaust of choice
-Intake plenum/throttle body
-Gears, or keep the stockers

Most that go a full N/A build like this with an O/R midpipe put down somewhere around 300rwhp, which assuming a 15% drivetrain loss equals out to approx 360hp. Keep in mind, this can still be attained without the block/rotating assembly. The block and internals are more than capable of supporting every N/A mod out there. You just need the heads/cams/longtubes.

 

[Mach1Run]

What about a Mach 1 motor? Doesnt take much to put them in the 320 range.

 

[Kilgore Trout]

Do not take a step back in technology. Do not install a pushrod motor.

Is there even anything wrong with your 2V or are you talking about swapping out a perfectly good engine?

 

[K'Dash]

Do not take a step back in technology. Do not install a pushrod motor.

Is there even anything wrong with your 2V or are you talking about swapping out a perfectly good engine?

Yeah if it's a perfectly good 2v then just bolt a blower on.

 

[Rougestang]

Put a blower on with a good tune and your 2v 4.6 will alst you 100k miles no prob. just do maybe 6-8 psi, and you should be fine. I blew the motor in my 2000 gt, and I had a good replacement put in. I thought about putting in a 5.0 (thats what I had in my 94 f150) and I was used to it. But all in all I'm glad I stuck with the 4.6, its a strong engine, and a blower will put it up there in the powerband your looking for.

 

[forum155pl]

pop in a 5.4 3 valve

 

[nl mex]

pop in a 5.4 3 valve

how bout that Spanish Oak computer? How do you go around it?

 

[four six]

You could use your stock block and put posted 3V heads on it with a good set of cams. There is a guy on my local forum running that, hes pushing 350+ rwhp N/A

 

[PhaidOut]

Sorry I haven't been present for a few days. Work duties have cut into my computer time (and the very reason I am looking for just a good reliable solution...)

In all honestly, I would like to drop a "crate" long block in. I am thinking of maybe adding a Typhoon Intake at the same time and getting rid of that plastic POS. It really is all about the drivability + reliability factor for me. I'm not looking to take it to the track, I just want to get on it once and a while.

I am going to call 320-350 MOTOR HP and of course I realize it is significantly less at the wheels... 300 RWHP is a lot of car on the street in an "everday" driver - IMHO. I had an 89 320 RWHP 302. The thing just ripped - for the time. Of course I went through 4 clutches, 3 transmissions, 2 rear ends plus the other performance parts related issues (Ignition issues, MASS air meters, TPS, etc.) I want something to drive all summer and not sweat it.

A backward move to old tech motor will not be happening. I want a "straight" swap.

Four six - what are posted 3V heads? I am guessing modded 3Vs... Sounds interesting.

I am beginning to suspect I have a motor issue - but I didn't when I wrote this. I have 62k on it and have taken meticulous care of the engine, but the last 2 days when I start it in the morning i hear knocking for a couple seconds. Don't know what it is yet, but it has an ominous sound. Pistons/Pins? Bearings? It could be an accessory or something else as well but I just don't like the sound. It runs just fine though and it is only the first few seconds on a cold overnight start.

 

[nl mex]

62K may be just too early for probs on the 4.6.......mine is 149,XXX miles old and I still beat it up (I want to HAVE to drop another engine in). It still runs great, no knocks, but of course, every car is different.

 

[Scorcher2005]

I've got around 70k on mine...still runs strong.

 

[BurningRubber]

Loose plug for the ominous engine noise? 4.6 pleauge.

 

[CobraRed_96_GT]

get a votech w/ a safe tune and some exhaust and call it a day. Cost the same or less than a long block and your at a solid 340-360 to the ground without an intercooler.