Blew two alternators, what's the problem????

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Do i even need the fusible link? What is its purpose? Looks to me like it just splits the larger wire into two smaller ones? I just bought a 4 gauge wire and was just going to replace the whole output wire in itself and leave the fusible link off. Good or bad idea?
 
Do i even need the fusible link? What is its purpose? Looks to me like it just splits the larger wire into two smaller ones? I just bought a 4 gauge wire and was just going to replace the whole output wire in itself and leave the fusible link off. Good or bad idea?

Bad idea. Fuse the new cable. EDIT: I posted with a little bit more info on the corral thread a minute ago.
 
Well, I just installed the new powermaster alternator, checked all the wires for corrosion/ breaks/ burns, checked all my connections, and the thing still will not charge. I checked the voltage at the battery and the alternator both and they were the same thing. The gauge in the car is at the N is normal and stays the same or if anything goes down...........I'm burning my car down.
 
Start checking fuses under the hood and under the dash I had a friend that had a very similiar problem with his mustang it was coming from the ignition switch these are notorious for causing all kinds of problems including charging problems the contacts get loose and some connections to power related stuff was flaky
 
all mustangs have the battery light if its doesnt light theres a problem the actual light itself is part of the charging circuit as an indicator and if the lights out it affects the charging system for some reason I found this the hard way
 
Ok I went out and checked again. In the run position the battery light does NOT come on. I'm getting closer. Help me fellas :D




If the wiring to it broke (chafed, got cut, otherwise came apart), that would do it.

The purpose of the 500 ohm resistor (which is run in parallel to the battery light) is so that if the battery light burns out, the resistor itself will function and allow the alt to turn on (a light bulb is also a resistor of sorts).

Anyhow, if the I circuit isnt working, there's a chance the wiring has an open (is cut). If you indeed have a cold I terminal circuit, I would start tracing it. First check real quick at the alternator regulator since those wires get crispy.
If that's ok, I'd head back to the interior and check at the cluster. If you have power reaching the cluster, check it after the bulb and trace forward. If you do not, work backwards toward the ignition switch till you find out why there's no power feed.

As an aside, if you get in a real pinch (though I hate to say it), you can rewire this circuit. You'd end up running a new wire and installing a resistor. If you dont care about the idiot light, this can all be done under the hood if it's simpler. I hate fixes like that - I like to fix things correctly. But it is an option if needed.

Good luck.