Throwing P0133 and P0153 after O/R prochamber install

Sorry for the long post :D

Okay, so I installed my o/r prochamber about a month ago, installed the MIL eliminators, reset the computer and everything was going great until about 2 weeks ago when the SES light came on.

I pulled the codes and saw that I was getting a P0133 (Oxygen Sensor Circuit Slow Response (Bank1, Sensor1)) and a P0153 (Oxygen Sensor Circuit Slow Response (Bank2, Sensor1)).

Since then I have checked for exhaust leaks, retightened the system, examined the entire air inlet system looking for leaks and found none. I cleared the codes and reset the computer after each one of these items with no success. Within a day the SES light comes back on.

The car is a 2003 GT and only has a little over 21k miles on it and since it threw both codes simultaneously I am not inclined to think that both front O2 sensors went bad at the same time.

After a little bit of research I found that this is a common thing for cars that have LT headers because it takes longer for the O2's to heat up and go into open loop. I am currently still running with stock headers.

My questions are:
- Has anybody else had or heard of a situation like this? and if so, what was done to remedy the situation.
- Also, I read that it is possible to program in a longer delay before the O2's go into open loop to give them a longer time to heat up. How can this delay be programmed? Is it possible with a handheld programmer? and if so, which one? Or would it have to be done by a professional tuner?

Hopefully someone will have an answer for me. I'm trying to explore all possible free options before going out and buying 2 new O2 sensors just to see what happens. Thanks.

- Darren
 
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Although very unlikely for both sensors to go bad from normal wear and tear at the same time,it may have been caused by an outside source. Maybe a bad tank of gas? Have you run any additives or fuel cleaners through the car lately? Lastly,I don't want to insult you but you did put the MIL eliminators on the rear 02 sensors right?
 
I've put a couple tanks of gas through it since the light came on so I don't think it's the gas, but I can't say I'm 100% certain that it's not. I plan on giving it another couple of tanks to maybe clear itself before I check that off the list. And yes I put the MIL eliminators on the rear O2 sensors. If I had put them on the front ones I'm sure the light would have come on sooner and I would have more codes to worry about. Also, I'd have to kick my own a$$ if I made a rookie mistake like that :D.

- Darren
 
I could, but I honestly don't think the sensors are bad. Also, I made my own MIL eliminators and I soldered and shrink wrapped them into the rear sensors so it would be a few more steps than just cutting and soldering the longer connectors.

- Darren
 
I also had a similar situation. I have an auto 03 gt with around 55k and I installed the bassani CATTED x pipe, and it still threw P0153 and like you, Im certain I do not have an exhaust leak also I took it to a shop to tighten everything after the install. The light is inconsistent and the only advice I had gotten was maybe the 02 went bad but Id say in your situation that seems highly unlikely. Mine came on about as week after the install though and about 200 miles later. BTW i dont have LT's either only mid and c/b. A tuner will only disable rear 02's so for both of us that doesn't help.
 
Look at your MIL eliminators, they may have gone bad. I started my car up one day and a small puff of white smoke rolled out from underneath the car. The SES light came on immediately and it turned out to be the MIL elim. burned out. I guess that's what you would call it anyway. It also blew a 20 amp fuse under the dash. I have an SCT XCal II and the O2 sensors are now turned off in my tune.
 
Look at your MIL eliminators, they may have gone bad. I started my car up one day and a small puff of white smoke rolled out from underneath the car. The SES light came on immediately and it turned out to be the MIL elim. burned out. I guess that's what you would call it anyway. It also blew a 20 amp fuse under the dash. I have an SCT XCal II and the O2 sensors are now turned off in my tune.

The codes that I'm getting are only for the front O2 sensors so I don't think the MIL eliminators are the problem. I haven't checked any of the fuses yet though so maybe that would be worth checking. I'll have to wait until I get home from work tonight to check on that.

- Darren
 
Where in MN are you? I'm assuming the twin cities area...

Not sure if you can do this even but if you can (someone chime in and tell me if i'm full of crap here) you could swap out your rear and front 02's and see if you still get the code. I don't know if the rear and front 02's are the same sensor though so for all I know i'm just stupid :D
 
I too highly doubt both of your front 02's went bad at the exact same time. First thing I would do is check for exhaust leaks then try wraping the area in front of the sensor and the sensor it's self in header tape.. If that works then you can leave it or try two new 02 sensors maybe the heater circuits on your current ones are a little weak.
 
I'm inclined to think it's the MIL Eliminators. If they're not working properly, they might throw codes for the front.

OR

Remove the front sensors and check to see if you got any grease/dirt/oil when installing them in the new pipe.

I'll check my garage when I get home, I might have my old sensors from when I had the blower put on.
 
I get these codes, but I have long tubes... I also have a hesitation when I first fire up the car for a min or two. I'm waiting on a tune to be sent to me to fix it!

Is the hesitation you're talking about feel like the engine is bogging down? If so then my car does that too, but only on cold starts and it goes away after that. I'm curious about the tune. Could you tell me some more about it? (who is it from? what is required to do the tune IE do you need any other hardware to get the tune done? how much?) Any info on that would be great and let me know if it fixes the problem.

- Darren
 
I could, but I honestly don't think the sensors are bad. Also, I made my own MIL eliminators and I soldered and shrink wrapped them into the rear sensors so it would be a few more steps than just cutting and soldering the longer connectors.

- Darren

No offense but spend $65 bucks for a good set of MIL's and see if that is what your problem is. The Mil has to be able to send a code back to the computer that it is functioning correctly. I am not saying you did something wrong just suggesting you try it first.
 
No offense but spend $65 bucks for a good set of MIL's and see if that is what your problem is. The Mil has to be able to send a code back to the computer that it is functioning correctly. I am not saying you did something wrong just suggesting you try it first.


The codes I'm getting are NOT for the rear O2 sensors, they are for the front ones.

Also, MIL eliminators are comprised of 2 very inexpensive electronic parts: 1 micro farad capacitor and 1 mega ohm resistor (1/2W). I'm not going to spend $65 for less than $2 worth of parts. That's $63 left over to spend on something more worthwhile. If anything I'd simply check the MILs with an ohm meter to make sure they're where they're supposed to be, or rebuild them at most. Unfortunately I won't get the time to get the car in the air to do any of that stuff so in the meantime I'm trying to gather as much intel and come up with as many theories as possible.

- Darren
 
word, the MILS have nothing to do with your problem. Homemade ones are the way to go; they save much needed mod money :)

Anyways, I got my tune from MD. I have 500 miles on the tune already and no light yet. I dont know if its been mentioned yet, im too tired to reread the post, but check to make sure you dont have any exhaust leaks before the 02s, as that can throw the code as well. You can always PM me if you have any more questions~! Good luck bro!
 
You had to remove the O2 sensors and then install them into the new exahust pipe correct ? Is it possible you didn't seat the connectors properly ? Maybe they are loose and not transmiting consistent readings ? Its not likely but I thought I'd bring that one up just in case...