Okay turbo people, chime in on this!

taper in a small block ford?

I also had the same question. I have read time and time again these things were machines hence why they last hundreds of thousands... In fact a Chevy dominated well read mag ran an article on them being the most venerable engine to ever come down a mass production line, noting that there was virtually no signs of wear and absolutely no taper after 100k...:shrug:
 
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I also had the same question. I have read time and time again these things were machines hence why they last hundreds of thousands... In fact a Chevy dominated well read mag ran an article on them being the most venerable engine to ever come down a mass production line, noting that there was virtually no signs of wear and absolutely no taper after 100k...:shrug:



ford blocks have a higher nickel content so they are much less prone to taper/ridge forming. ever see the crosshatch still on the walls of a 150k mile 302? wont see that in a chevy.


SBCs are reletavely soft.
 
ford blocks have a higher nickel content so they are much less prone to taper/ridge forming. ever see the crosshatch still on the walls of a 150k mile 302? wont see that in a chevy.


SBCs are reletavely soft.

Well although I must admit the late model small block ford isnt as prone to cylinder wall wear as alot of engines especially the older ones. But this has little to do with the actual block material. Its the thin low tension metric piston rings thats primarily responsible. If the 5.0 had so much nickel in it, it wouldnt want to split in half the way it does above 500 hp.

I have seen plenty of over 100k mile 5.0 blocks with awesome looking bores and very little ridge. I have also seen my fair share of them with a decent ridge and enough taper to necessitate an overbore and new pistons for proper clearances.:nice:

At 234k miles its a fair bet joey's block is gonna need to be bored.
 
11.04 @ 124 with a 1.73 60ft and 7.13 @ 100 in the 1/8. That is all....:D


Nate

p.s. Drove it there, 6 passes in the 11's, drove it home(10miles both ways):D
 
Stock block 88 5.0, stock heads(cleaned up) stock valves, comp beehive springs, comp rockers, TrickFlow stage 1 cam, Truck EFI lower intake/custom upper, 42lbs inj, stock TB, PT67DBB turbo, 3 1/2 downpipe, 3 1/2 Borla XR-1, bbk shorties flipped to face forward, 2 1/2 crossover pipe, twin 38mm Tial sport wastegates, 3" alum cold side pipe, 4"x12"x30" air to air, junkyard C-4 with rev man valve body-pro shift servo-deep pan, 3.08 gears, Mega Squirt DFI, strange 10way adj shocks and struts, upr rear kit, 3200lbs w/me on MT 235/60's,...etc...

Nate
 
Very Nice. Stock rods, Pistons,Crank, Bore, Stroke Bolts etc?

yep, I did pull it apart and put in new bearings, and oil pump, but junkyard style. No machining. It has 35-40psi oil at idle, and over 65 reving. Comp test shows cyl 1-4 in the 170's, and 5-8 between 165-175. :nice:

Nate
 
So i suppose that is a 9:5:1 Compression Motor?

What kind of power and boost are you running Sorry for all the questions. If you would like to move to Pm's i am cool with that.

Joey
 
9:5:1?

Crazy Track times man.

Joey go over to the Corrals drag section and check out the "how fast on a stock block" thread. People have gone pretty damn fast with a stock block. Hell my best trap with a completely stock long block (heads had never been off) was 126, thats with an over 3400 lbs race weight.

And Nate is correct, its closer to 9:1 with the 64cc nominal chambers.

BTW Nate, Im even more impressed now that I know you were on 235s.:nice:
 
I'd do the small housing with a stick and probably the big one with an auto, it's much easier to get an auto to spool.

don't get hung up on the boost number, just set yourself a WHP limit and stick to it. It doesn't really matter if it takes you 5psi or 15psi of boost to get there the damage will be the same.