bleeding brakes

Mustang4119

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May 26, 2004
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Ok, i want to replace my stock front brakes back to stock and i need to replace the hoses. So i remove the 2 front calipers by taking the 15mm bolt on. Some said I need vice grips to remove the bolts?? Will a lot of brake fluid come out when i disconnect line? How do i stop the fluid from coming out? So everything is back together and stock brakes on then i need to bleed front brakes. So i have someone press pedal 4-5 times and then i open the valve and the pedal goes to floor while keeping pressure. Then i wait until all fluid comes out? How do i see air bubbles where am i looking? Then i tighten screw and pedal goes back to normal. Can things get messed up if bleeding brakes imporperly? Where is the bleeder screw on the front brakes? What size mm do you need?
 
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Ok, i want to replace my stock front brakes back to stock and i need to replace the hoses. So i remove the 2 front calipers by taking the 15mm bolt on. Some said I need vice grips to remove the bolts?? Will a lot of brake fluid come out when i disconnect line? How do i stop the fluid from coming out? So everything is back together and stock brakes on then i need to bleed front brakes. So i have someone press pedal 4-5 times and then i open the valve and the pedal goes to floor while keeping pressure. Then i wait until all fluid comes out? How do i see air bubbles where am i looking? Then i tighten screw and pedal goes back to normal. Can things get messed up if bleeding brakes imporperly? Where is the bleeder screw on the front brakes? What size mm do you need?

1. Don't use a vise grip!!
2. The bleeder screw is that small nipple on top of the caliper.
It might have a little rubber cap on it.
3. Get yourself a glass, a hose and some fresh brake fluid.
4. Put some fluid in the glass, connect the hose to the nipple, put the other end of the hose in the glass submerged in the fresh fluid. Put your wrench the bleeder screw and have the person pump the pedal a few times holding pressure on it the last time.
5. Open the bleeder screw and the pedal will go to the floor.
6. Make sure the person holds it there while you tighten the screw.
7 Check the master cylinder reservoir and add fresh fluid if needed. DO NOT LET IT GO TO LOW!!
8. Repeat until you see no more *bubbles* in the jar when you loosen the bleeder screw.
9. Do the same for the other side.
10. Only an ounce or two of fluid comes out at a time but keep rags around and DO NOT get brake fluid anywhere near your paint!!!! It destroys paint really fast.

Here is a nice writeup:

http://www.bullittarchive.com/1000.htm

Also, if you don't feel confident doing this have someone else with experience do it for you because you do not want to have braking problems.
 
1. Don't use a vise grip!!
2. The bleeder screw is that small nipple on top of the caliper.
It might have a little rubber cap on it.
3. Get yourself a glass, a hose and some fresh brake fluid.
4. Put some fluid in the glass, connect the hose to the nipple, put the other end of the hose in the glass submerged in the fresh fluid. Put your wrench the bleeder screw and have the person pump the pedal a few times holding pressure on it the last time.
5. Open the bleeder screw and the pedal will go to the floor.
6. Make sure the person holds it there while you tighten the screw.
7 Check the master cylinder reservoir and add fresh fluid if needed. DO NOT LET IT GO TO LOW!!
8. Repeat until you see no more *bubbles* in the jar when you loosen the bleeder screw.
9. Do the same for the other side.
10. Only an ounce or two of fluid comes out at a time but keep rags around and DO NOT get brake fluid anywhere near your paint!!!! It destroys paint really fast.

Here is a nice writeup:

http://www.bullittarchive.com/1000.htm

Also, if you don't feel confident doing this have someone else with experience do it for you because you do not want to have braking problems.


why do i need to buy a tube and put it in a glass? I dont care if the fluid goes on the floor. i cant find a hose to fit the end cap. im not going to search for hose sizes.
 
why do i need to buy a tube and put it in a glass? I dont care if the fluid goes on the floor. i cant find a hose to fit the end cap. im not going to search for hose sizes.
size? it's about 1/4 inch ID, .375 OD - clear works best - ideally, you'll need about 2 feet of it. Any auto parts store or home improvement store will have this. You HAVE to drown the hose in fluid or it will suck up air with each pumping of the brake pedal. I simply use a half empty bottle of brake fluid and I use duct tape to keep the hose down in the fluid (otherwsie, it trys to float).
Bleeding the brakes is really easy, just remember to keep topping off the master cylinder. You definately do not want to run dry.
 
size? it's about 1/4 inch ID, .375 OD - clear works best - ideally, you'll need about 2 feet of it. Any auto parts store or home improvement store will have this. You HAVE to drown the hose in fluid or it will suck up air with each pumping of the brake pedal. I simply use a half empty bottle of brake fluid and I use duct tape to keep the hose down in the fluid (otherwsie, it trys to float).
Bleeding the brakes is really easy, just remember to keep topping off the master cylinder. You definately do not want to run dry.

+1
It also makes it easy to see if air is being expelled as you can see the bubbles.
 
+1
It also makes it easy to see if air is being expelled as you can see the bubbles.

How do i attach it to the bleeder screw without having to open it up and have it all pour out first. I never saw what a bleeder screw looks like. I am bleeding the fronts, since im taking those brakes off and hoses. How do I cap the front brake lines when they pour out brake fluid.
 
size? it's about 1/4 inch ID, .375 OD - clear works best - ideally, you'll need about 2 feet of it. Any auto parts store or home improvement store will have this. You HAVE to drown the hose in fluid or it will suck up air with each pumping of the brake pedal. I simply use a half empty bottle of brake fluid and I use duct tape to keep the hose down in the fluid (otherwsie, it trys to float).
Bleeding the brakes is really easy, just remember to keep topping off the master cylinder. You definately do not want to run dry.

So is it 1/4" or 3/8? .375 is 3/8. What does ID mean and OD?I thought you pump 4-5 times then hold pressure, then open the bleeder screw, pedal goes to floor and then u tighten the bleeder screw back up. how is it going to suck up air after each pump if the pumping is before opening bleeder screw?
 
if thats all you do is disconnect the brake lines to replaced calipers, you dont NEED to bleed the brakes. theoretically, air wont enter the system unless you pump the brake pedal. when i swapped calipers, i didnt bleed the system and it was fine
 
if thats all you do is disconnect the brake lines to replaced calipers, you dont NEED to bleed the brakes. theoretically, air wont enter the system unless you pump the brake pedal. when i swapped calipers, i didnt bleed the system and it was fine

The new calipers will be full of air which will not compress like the fluid the first time you step on the brakes. Even with the piston all the way in there will still be some air in there.
 
So is it 1/4" or 3/8? .375 is 3/8. What does ID mean and OD?I thought you pump 4-5 times then hold pressure, then open the bleeder screw, pedal goes to floor and then u tighten the bleeder screw back up. how is it going to suck up air after each pump if the pumping is before opening bleeder screw?
ID is inside diameter, OD is outside diameter.
The bleeder has to be open when you pump em up.
I personally get the wrench on the bleeder, then attach the hose. They do make a special thin wrench for the bleeders, but I couldnt find the right size for our cars. (after putting the wrench on, there's little space to get the hose on the bleeder nipple, but it does work, but a thinner wrench would be the trick) So I used a simple open end wrench. Get the wrench on with one hand, then the hose with the other. Open with about a quarter turn then have your friend pump the brake pedal 3-4 times and hold the pedal down on the last pump - then tighten. You'll see the (dirty) fluid (and air bubbles) move thru the tube and it'll become obvious what you are actually doing. It's really pretty easy once you do it. Again, biggest mistake would be letting the Master Cylinder run dry. Keep cking it!
 
why do i need to buy a tube and put it in a glass? I dont care if the fluid goes on the floor. i cant find a hose to fit the end cap. im not going to search for hose sizes.


You do know brake fluid takes paint off right? Not exactly something you want spraying around.

You use the hose so that no air gets drawn up into the caliper during strokes of the pedal. The tube will draw fluid up instead during the upstroke.
 
:shrug: im sure there was a little air in there, but not even enough to feel. pedal was fine. stopped great and didnt have any pedal play



But the whole point of hydraulic brakes is to have ZERO air in the system. Air is compressable. Hydraulic fluid is not. WHen you push on the pedal, you are just going to compress the air vs pushing the pistons.

Brakes are pretty damn important. WHy not spend 5 mins and get ALL of the air out??
 
size? it's about 1/4 inch ID, .375 OD - clear works best - ideally, you'll need about 2 feet of it. Any auto parts store or home improvement store will have this. You HAVE to drown the hose in fluid or it will suck up air with each pumping of the brake pedal. I simply use a half empty bottle of brake fluid and I use duct tape to keep the hose down in the fluid (otherwsie, it trys to float).
Bleeding the brakes is really easy, just remember to keep topping off the master cylinder. You definately do not want to run dry.

ok went back to home depot and got the right size. i got 1/4" orginally with a .170 OD, now i got 1/4" with a .375". Thanks you were right :)
 
ok went back to home depot and got the right size. i got 1/4" orginally with a .170 OD, now i got 1/4" with a .375". Thanks you were right :)
:nice: God, I love being right! (it happens so rarely!) :p :flag:

And yeah, you can keep the cap off of the master cylinder when you are bleeding (cause you'll be topping off the fluid multiple times). Fill it each time you do a wheel...
 
:nice: God, I love being right! (it happens so rarely!) :p :flag:

And yeah, you can keep the cap off of the master cylinder when you are bleeding (cause you'll be topping off the fluid multiple times). Fill it each time you do a wheel...

I will be only doing the fronts because i didnt remove the rear brake lines. So even before starting it i remove the cap and fill it to the recommended line. That should be enough, why would it ever run out of fluid and then suck all the air in. Thats alot of brake fluid. Once you open bleeder isnt the whole process like 10 sec at most not even since pedal goes to floor quick.