I left keys in the ignition overnight with it in the ON position. Now I have an issue

[ron67fb]

Get an old working spark plug and plug it into one of the wires, then lay the body of the plug onto a grounded surface like the block but away from fuel. You should see a bright yellow spark while cranking. A blue spark is a spark but not a strong one. If you wired your coil backwards you will get the dim blue spark.

If there is no spark, then you can start testing components. Your coil is new, so we can probably skip that. Next, with ignition on, check that the coil is getting power at the + terminal and chassis ground, NOT + and - at the coil.

If you want to check the coil, disconnect it and connect the tester leads to the terminals, and set it to ohms. There should be some resistance but you won't know the right value unless you have the specs for it, or an identical coil to compare it to. Zero resistance means it's shorted internally, and infinity (open) shows an internal break.

As for the aftermarket module, unless you have a service manual for it, there usually no way to test it. Being the most expensive part, check that last.

 

[DissFigured]

Ok, I checked the pos terminal and grounded the other lead and got power at the coil.

I think the next step is to try the spark plug test to see if there is a spark. If no spark, then I can assume it is the distributor components (ignition module)

If there is a spark, then possibly a timing issue????


FYI, I have the Accel Points Eliminator system.
<img src="http://static.summitracing.com/global/images/prod/large/acc-2010_w.jpg" height=300>

Also, if it turns out to be this ignition system, is there any way to test and see what in the system went bad or should I just replace the whole thing?

 

[gjz30075]

It won't be a timing issue. If it was running before the key incident, then just simply leaving the key on and now it won't run, doesn't change the timing. Those ignition modules aren't that bad, $$ wise, something like $35 at Summit. I know that because I have a Mallory unilite which is the same concept and their modules are close to $90. These are a cheaper alternative for me.

 

[DissFigured]

OK, I pulled the #1 plug, grounded it to the engine. verified that I was getting power to the plug by putting multimeter pos onto the battery terminal (pos) and the neg to the body of the plug and I got 12 volts.

Cranked the engine and got no spark.

I am going to replace the distributor parts with another pointless system and see if it fixes the problem. I suspect this is the issue.

 

[Rusty67]

You didn't verify anything with that multimeter test. What you did was ground your battery's positive terminal through the spark plug. Get something like this to test for spark and it will make your life a lot easier:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=4424

 

[ron67fb]

He verified that the spark plug was grounded correctly before checking for spark. An inline plug tester is nice, but simply grounding a spare plug on bare metal or with alligator clips is a cheap and effective method.

Are you positive you installed the coil correctly? From the Accel harness there should be one wire going to the coil +, one wire to the -, and another to ground. There is also a second wire to the + side, which is coming from the ignition key/ballast wire.

 

[67FBack]

He tested the plug just fine. You really don't need much of a ground at the plug to see if there is a HIGH energy spark. Just make sure you are not near fuel, and not on something that is NON metallic, so you can get a ground.

Another way to check the spark issue, while the key is turned on, verify 12v to the coil POS side with a tester (you did this) against a frame ground. Now with a plug wire FROM THE COIL hooked up to a spark plug laying on any metal surface, strike a ground wire, for the NEG side of the coil to any ground. You should see a spark. Means your coils is probably (not always) OK.

I suspect your pointless system took a dive from being left on for extended period without running.

You do NOT have a MSD electronic box in there somewhere, do you?

 

[DissFigured]

No MSD


I ripped out the accel ignition system and went to get another one and for some reason I swear I paid 35 bucks for mine but they were 85 at the store so I hesitated.

I will replace it and let you know what the results are.

I suspect this is it based on the fact that I am getting current to the coil, I am getting no spark, and a couple people posted that there are issues with leaving the key in the on position too long.

Hope to have the ignition replaced tomorrow.

 

[DissFigured]

Thank you GNGREN

I replaced the accel points eliminator, and the car fired up right away.


However, I have a new anomaly.
I went to verify my timing and while the engine idles like the timing is dead on, the mark that should be lining up with the indicator when the timing light flashes it nearly 180 degrees on the wrong place. It is at the bottom at that point in time.

Seems like with the timing off like this the engine should not be running at all.

Any thoughts?

 

[BlwnGazkit]

Dumb question, but you hooked the timing light to the #1 plug wire right??

And no, the engine shouldn't be running if timing is really 180 off.

 

[DissFigured]

I am retarded and I should be forced to sell the Mustang and be banned from this forum.


Yup, I had it on the wrong plug. I have done this 100 times and for some reason, I put it on the wrong wire... twice.


At any rate, the new ignition fixed everything. I just took it for a spin and everything is perfect.

 

[GNGREN]

Glad to hear ya got it figured out. These things arn't as hard to work on as what it seems, it's all pretty basic.

 

[ron67fb]

I thought they sold the module by itself? Too late now, anyway. Glad it's working.